I have a 97 civic hatch with a JDM B18C-R swap on it. It was dyno tune a while back with a p28 on crome. It had a 68mm skunk 2 pro TB & IM. The skunk TB did not do the high idle at cold starts so I dicided to change it for a 68mm prof. prod. TB. I change the TB gasket, reuse the map sensor & TPS set to 0.47v close & 4.87 WOT.

On the first cold start it work good, raising the rpm & lowering as it was getting warmer. Once warmed up it started with the bouncing idle. I clean the IACV, check for vacum leaks, spraying started fluid around the TB, IM & all the vacum lines, nothing change. next step i did was to replace the map & tps sensors & IACV, no luck. With the car running I unplug the IACV & the idle goes down with no bouncing.

Does any one has any sugestion on what to do next, to fix the bouncing idle?

P.S. The TB sticks a little bit, too.

 

tb gasket?

 

TB gasket.
TPS Gasket.
is it a usdm or a jdm Setup tb.. if they sent u a usdm probably the IVAC under the TB.

 

does your idle surge all the time or is it an off and on process.

 

Is it a GSR or ITR style Professional Products TB? GSR style has the ports for FITV ITR style doesn't.

 

the TB is a ITR one. it does not have the port for the FITV. the idle was a off and on process. I replace the TB gasket with a thicker and biger one that I cut out of gasket paper. it seam to stop it a little bit but then I notice that the radiator was leaking from the top and was getting air in the cooling system. I had a integra radiator & raplace it with a civic SI one (the half size one).

I reseted the idle, adjusted the TPS, purge the cooling system & the idle screw. I haven't have time to drive it, because i'm not feeling well. but i will keep you guys updated. thanks for your replies.


Modified by carloselpavo at 4:29 PM 5/28/2008

 

Had the same problem with my ITR TB. TPS was gone.

 

I replaced the TPS & PCV valve and the bouncing idle still there, but only after warm up. When I turn on the car from a cold start it idles normal. The bouncing idle only occurs after it has reach operating temperature.

I had try many things anr nothing worked The only thing left is that maybe my tuner did something to the ECU bin that the skunk 2 TB did not need & the new one does. I don't know if is posible to do some thing like that because i do not have experiance with crome. So if some one knows or have any other suggestions plese let me know.

 

ok take your intake off, (the intake and pipe) cover your hand over the throttle body.. if the car dies its a very small leak .. or-- it is a sensor.. if the car dies then hold your hand over it with it sucking in on your hand and listen carefully it will hold a vacuum for awhile.. or it should at least... so just sit there and listen.. u will have to push your hand against the throttle body opening very tight as it will make alot of noise if it is leaking because there will be quite a vacuum in there... btw: what did you use to clean the iacv??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alex711 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok take your intake off, (the intake and pipe) cover your hand over the throttle body.. if the car dies its a very small leak .. or-- it is a sensor.. if the car dies then hold your hand over it with it sucking in on your hand and listen carefully it will hold a vacuum for awhile.. or it should at least... so just sit there and listen.. u will have to push your hand against the throttle body opening very tight as it will make alot of noise if it is leaking because there will be quite a vacuum in there... btw: what did you use to clean the iacv??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Allright, I'll try this. I used TB cleaner to clean th IACV. Is there any other thing I should be cleaning it with?

 

nope, tb cleaner should be fine... weird i would try what i suggested it will tell you whats going on ... ... also-- with the car idling if you plug the iacv hole that is in front of the throttle plate on the inside of the tb with your finger the engine should die


Modified by alex711 at 1:05 PM 6/16/2008

 

keep in mind there are 2 seals/gaskets on the iacv, one which is like an 8 that connects the 2 holes on the intake manifold and one on the bottom of the iacv either could leak if it is coming from that... also.. the intake mani gasket could leak as well

 

my buddy was having this problem so we clean the iacv and that didnt change anything....i turned the idle screw on the tb 1/2 turn to lower the idle and the problem hasnt occured since. If the idle is set too high somtimes it will surge like that and also try adjusting your timing also. if both of those dont work then ....****...lol

 

I had the same problem on my ls/vtec. I raced some Audi one day and when I shut it down at the end (4 car lengths ahead btw) I look down and my check engine light is on. I reset the light without pulling the code like a dumbass, so I have no idea what code I threw, but for the next 2 weeks it did the exact same thing you are describing. I checked for vacum leaks, ground cables, anything that could have come loose/undone while I was racing. Nothing. About 2 weeks later it just stops out of the blue. My tuner and I are still stumped to this day, and it has yet to return.

Curious to see what this turns out to be...

 

had the same problem

get a BDL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alex711 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also-- with the car idling if you plug the iacv hole that is in front of the throttle plate on the inside of the tb with your finger the engine should die
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried pluging the IACV hole & the car did not die. At the beginig the TB was sticking really bad. So I adjusted the bottom screw to let the butterfly barely touching the TB. It was not closing all the way. I adjusted the screw & now it closes all the way. I also adjusted the TPS & idle screw again. Now when I plug the hole for the IACV it dies like it should.

sadly the freacking car still has a bouncing idle but only when I drive it hard. On my way to work I was driving it moderally not going over 4K RPM & when i came to stop lights & press on the clutch the rpm will drop to 1K then go up to 1500 & go to down again to normal idle. not bouncing idle.
i was happy thinking the problem was fix and started reving it and getting on it. so the next stop light bummm the idle started bouncing I drove it easy and hard for about 30 min. it only bouce when i was driving it hard

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jord18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my buddy was having this problem so we clean the iacv and that didnt change anything....i turned the idle screw on the tb 1/2 turn to lower the idle and the problem hasnt occured since. If the idle is set too high somtimes it will surge like that and also try adjusting your timing also. if both of those dont work then ....****...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
how do I adjust the timing? is it by moving the distributor?

any other sugestions.

thanks evary one for your help so far

 

you have a leak if you plug the little hole and it does not die...... if you plug the entire throttle body does the car die? ... make sure your plugging the entire throttle body...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alex711 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have a leak if you plug the little hole and it does not die...... if you plug the entire throttle body does the car die? ... make sure your plugging the entire throttle body...</TD></TR></TABLE>

it dies now when i plug the little hole. it also dies when i plug the TB. it also holds the vacum then it releases it

 

so if it is a vacuum leak.. it is a very very small one.. i actually would bet 99% that it is not a vacuum leak.. the lobing.. could be the iacv.. you cleaned it.. right? did you entirely replace it? i mean if the motor inside of it is bad.. that could very well be the cause..

 

Well i had the SAME problem and mine ended up being iacv.. i tried 2 iacv's .. you HAVE to use ALOT of cleaner to clean them... i also sprayed the inside of my map sensor plug as well... nothing was working i swapped out map sensors and that did nothing as well.. it now idles normal and runs alot better.... try a full bottle of fuel injection or throttle body cleaner as I did and then clean the map sensor port on your throttle body! thats all i got.. if its not a vacuum leak.

 

BDLIND.com

Same as Ericks Racing Almost half the cost

 

beautiful!

 

here is an update. today i change the PP TB for the skunk 2 Tb i used to have. the car runs good no idle problems. i did not even reset the ECU after the install. So it is clear that the IACV, map censor & TPS are good. the problem is in the PP TB itself.
Does any body have any ideas what might be?
Could it be that my tuner did something to the crome bin that only works with the skunk 2 TB?
Maybe the PP TB is defective. did any body had a similar problem with them before?

 

I'm telling you, you probably have a leak in the throttle spring that the cable hooks up to.. very common check your bolt on that/ your throttle body plate is leaking.. slightly... or you had a throttle body leak... i am 99% sure that tb is leaking somewhere... really think about it. the tb has only those sensors on it and if they are all in working condition unless your TPS sensor was WAY off which i doubt or your map sensor port on the tb was all plugged up.. theres no reason it should have lobed with that tb unless there was a vacuum leak.