HELP!!! clutch install
hey a buddy of mine has an 01 stock civic and jsut purchased a excedy stage 1 clutch kit. was wanderin if anyone had any diy's for clutch install on his car just so he makes sure he does it all right. i searched on here but could not find. thanks.
Transmission Removal
Special Tools Required
Engine hanger support bar 07AAK-S5AA000
Engine hanger, A and Reds AART 1256
Subframe adapter, EQS-0ZACVC0 *
Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857
NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable from the battery. Remove the battery.
Remove the intake air duct.
Remove the air cleaner housing.

Disconnect the transmission ground cable(A), then remove the clutch line bracket (B).
Carefully remove the slave cylinder so as not to bend the clutch line. Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.
Disconnect the starter motor cables (A).
Disconnect the back-up light switch connector.

Remove the starter motor.
Remove the cable bracket (A), then disconnect the cables (B) from the top of the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together so as not to bend the cables.
Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector.
Lift and support the engine with an hanger (A), and special tool.
Remove the two upper transmission mounting bolts.
Remove the transmission mount bracket (A) and transmission mounting bolt (B).

Remove the front engine mount bracket mounting bolt.
Remove the front engine mount.
Raise vehicle and make sure it is securely supported.
Drain transmission fluid with a shop towel covering the front and rear beams to catch any spilled fluid.
Remove the splash shield.
Remove exhaust pipe A.
Remove the driveshafts.
Remove the three bolts securing the transmission rear mount.
Remove the transmission rear mount (A) and the transmission rear mount bracket (B).
Support the front suspension subframe with the subframe adapter and a transmission jack.
Make reference marks (A) front suspension subframe(B) and mounting bolts (C), then remove the front suspension subframe.


Remove the engine stiffener (A), and clutch cover (B).

Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and remove the three lower transmission mounting bolts.
Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower transmission on the transmission jack.
Remove the boot (A), the release fork (B), and the release bearing (C) from the transmission (D).
Special Tools Required
Engine hanger support bar 07AAK-S5AA000
Engine hanger, A and Reds AART 1256
Subframe adapter, EQS-0ZACVC0 *
Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857
NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
Write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable from the battery. Remove the battery.
Remove the intake air duct.
Remove the air cleaner housing.
Disconnect the transmission ground cable(A), then remove the clutch line bracket (B).
Carefully remove the slave cylinder so as not to bend the clutch line. Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed.
Disconnect the starter motor cables (A).
Disconnect the back-up light switch connector.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the cable bracket (A), then disconnect the cables (B) from the top of the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together so as not to bend the cables.
Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector.
Lift and support the engine with an hanger (A), and special tool.
Remove the two upper transmission mounting bolts.
Remove the transmission mount bracket (A) and transmission mounting bolt (B).
Remove the front engine mount bracket mounting bolt.
Remove the front engine mount.
Raise vehicle and make sure it is securely supported.
Drain transmission fluid with a shop towel covering the front and rear beams to catch any spilled fluid.
Remove the splash shield.
Remove exhaust pipe A.
Remove the driveshafts.
Remove the three bolts securing the transmission rear mount.
Remove the transmission rear mount (A) and the transmission rear mount bracket (B).
Support the front suspension subframe with the subframe adapter and a transmission jack.
Make reference marks (A) front suspension subframe(B) and mounting bolts (C), then remove the front suspension subframe.
Remove the engine stiffener (A), and clutch cover (B).
Place the transmission jack under the transmission, and remove the three lower transmission mounting bolts.
Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft clears the clutch pressure plate, then lower transmission on the transmission jack.
Remove the boot (A), the release fork (B), and the release bearing (C) from the transmission (D).
Last edited by It Wasn't Me; Jan 28, 2009 at 10:09 PM.
[QUOTE=LatinEM2]Transmission Removal

Remove the three bolts securing the transmission rear mount.
I just did this to day on my 01 4 door and you dont need to remove those three bolts you just leave the mont on the subframe when you drop it down. This whole thing sucked ***** but now that i have done it I can do it fast. It took me all day today tho i had to miss work. I started at 9am and ended at 5pm. This was my first clutch replacement ever.
Remove the three bolts securing the transmission rear mount.
I just did this to day on my 01 4 door and you dont need to remove those three bolts you just leave the mont on the subframe when you drop it down. This whole thing sucked ***** but now that i have done it I can do it fast. It took me all day today tho i had to miss work. I started at 9am and ended at 5pm. This was my first clutch replacement ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tunerkid7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude latin are you pullin these DIY's off mitchell?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mitchell isnt nearly that detailed, probably alldata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, at my work i have access to the Alldata
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mitchell isnt nearly that detailed, probably alldata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, at my work i have access to the Alldata
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holy cow that seems nasty!
Is it absolutely required to have the honda support tool thingy?
I have a friend that wants me to replace his clutch on his 2005 civic and I'm dreading it b/c of the huge amount of work that it might be.
Doing the old civics was a cinch but these newer ones give me the heebie jeebies!
Is it absolutely required to have the honda support tool thingy?
I have a friend that wants me to replace his clutch on his 2005 civic and I'm dreading it b/c of the huge amount of work that it might be.
Doing the old civics was a cinch but these newer ones give me the heebie jeebies!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevescivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is it absolutely required to have the honda support tool thingy?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you dont need that I did it at my toyota shop where I work. It took me all day cause it was my first time doing a clutch on any car.
Is it absolutely required to have the honda support tool thingy?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No you dont need that I did it at my toyota shop where I work. It took me all day cause it was my first time doing a clutch on any car.
I did one yesterday on an 01' civic EX. You don't have to drop the tranny completely. The sub frame is notched just enough so that you can wedge the tranny between the body and the frame. It doesn't leave a lot of room to get the clutch in and out but it can be done and it does save a lot of time. Good Luck man
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackKready »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if your car hisses when in neautral and clutch out , thats not your throw bearing , or thrust as you call it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What could the problem be then??? My car hisses and clicks too ... the clutch doesn't slip but doesn't grab strong off of 1st [sometimes it feels like it's going to die] and the shifter feels loose. Is this normal for Civics? I had a Teg and it felt sweet - grabbed strong without having to apply any gas.
Will an Exedy clutch kit make the shifter stiffer? or do I need something else?
if your car hisses when in neautral and clutch out , thats not your throw bearing , or thrust as you call it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What could the problem be then??? My car hisses and clicks too ... the clutch doesn't slip but doesn't grab strong off of 1st [sometimes it feels like it's going to die] and the shifter feels loose. Is this normal for Civics? I had a Teg and it felt sweet - grabbed strong without having to apply any gas.
Will an Exedy clutch kit make the shifter stiffer? or do I need something else?
its 100% mainshaft bearings , or input as some call them. the only one that gets bad is the engine end bearing of the mainshaft. its like 25 bucks. ive put in many. very common honda problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GustavoO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would this write up be the same for an 03 lx civic?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It should be the same, as the transmissions vary little.
It should be the same, as the transmissions vary little.
hopefully the link works but do you think this clutch would be a good deal, its only 85 bucks pluss shiping, i dont know anything about clutches and i have to do the job myself cuz of lack of funds so this is pretty much my best option right now... but does it look good to use does it look like a real exedy? any coments are appretiated
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors....m245
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors....m245
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GustavoO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully the link works but do you think this clutch would be a good deal, its only 85 bucks pluss shiping, i dont know anything about clutches and i have to do the job myself cuz of lack of funds so this is pretty much my best option right now... but does it look good to use does it look like a real exedy? any coments are appretiated
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors....m245</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an ok clutch, but I would prefer OEM over it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors....m245</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an ok clutch, but I would prefer OEM over it.
Daikin/Exedy are an OEM quality, made in Japan clutch. I just got done dropping the trans out of my wife's 2002. Took me 3 hours, first time doing one of these, I prefer to do EF's.
Her's has an input shaft bearing going out, same bearing as my 91 Si, go figure, good thing I have a spare on the shelf. While I have it out I'm tossing in a new clutch and rear main seal. Dropping the flywheel off on the way into work tomorrow, and then I have to split the case. Shift linkage appears easier to manage than the L3, but the transmissions share a lot of the same internal parts. HF 5th?? hmm...
Her's has an input shaft bearing going out, same bearing as my 91 Si, go figure, good thing I have a spare on the shelf. While I have it out I'm tossing in a new clutch and rear main seal. Dropping the flywheel off on the way into work tomorrow, and then I have to split the case. Shift linkage appears easier to manage than the L3, but the transmissions share a lot of the same internal parts. HF 5th?? hmm...
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