quick question about h22 tensioner
i just swapped the h22 auto tensioner for the h23 manual tensioner but because the manual tensioner is bigger the h22 timing belt wont fit. which timing belt do i need? i dont know if it makes a difference but i have a 99 jdm h22 in my 92 prelude. dont know if the jdm tensioner differs from the usdm ones.
i know alot of people have done this manual tensioner swap.
just need to know what timing belt i need so i can finish it up.
please help if you can.
i know alot of people have done this manual tensioner swap.
just need to know what timing belt i need so i can finish it up.
please help if you can.
http://www.collectiveracing.ne...c=9.0
Parts list:
13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)
Parts list:
13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the H22 timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i tried it with the h22 belt and i couldnet even get it on. even with the tensioner spring off and nut loose.
anyone got ideas on how i can get the timing belt on? i tried for an hour tonight.
anyone got ideas on how i can get the timing belt on? i tried for an hour tonight.
Like I've said in the other 20 threads on this subject, sh*t can the L-bracket, and use two shorter bolts on the oil pump where the L-bracket used to be located. Then you'll be able to get enough slack on the belt to easily install it.
I just did a timing belt type job on my track car (with the manual tensioner), and I was able to get the belt on by myself in less than a minute with the timing perfect on the first try.
I just did a timing belt type job on my track car (with the manual tensioner), and I was able to get the belt on by myself in less than a minute with the timing perfect on the first try.
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i ordered the L bracket from the parts list above, but didnt see a reason to install it. i dont see how shorter bolts on the oil pump would give the timing belt more slack, since the timing belt doesnt even touch the oil pump.
im probably gonna buy the timing belt slider tool from honda. shitty cuz it cost like $170. but i guess its good to have around.
im probably gonna buy the timing belt slider tool from honda. shitty cuz it cost like $170. but i guess its good to have around.
Just did my conversion yesterday, and had no problems - just a lil elbow grease to slide it on. Like the post above states, place the pully on the gears first, then slide over the tensioner.
(I did NOT use the L bracket).
(I did NOT use the L bracket).
It seems to me that you haven't taken a close look at how the tensioner works. With the L-bracket in place, the tensioner pulley hits one of the bolt heads on the L-bracket. Now, once you remove the L-bracket, the two original bolts are too long, so you install shorter bolts to compensate for fact that the L-bracket is no longer there. Don't just leave the bolts out, as those bolts also hold the oil pump against the block.
Now that the L-bracket is gone, the bolt heads sit low enough for the tensioner to be pushed further downward, thus giving you more slack and making the belt easier to install.
I was thinking this would be obvious to anyone who has installed the manual tensioner pulley, but I guess not!
I've done at least 5 of these conversions, and without the L-bracket and using shorter bolts, 1 person can easily get the belt on by following the procedure in the Helms. I put the belt on the tensioner pulley, around the water pump, on the intake cam gear, then slide it onto the exhaust cam gear. Takes less than 2 minutes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22LUDE808 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ordered the L bracket from the parts list above, but didnt see a reason to install it. i dont see how shorter bolts on the oil pump would give the timing belt more slack, since the timing belt doesnt even touch the oil pump.
im probably gonna buy the timing belt slider tool from honda. shitty cuz it cost like $170. but i guess its good to have around.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that the L-bracket is gone, the bolt heads sit low enough for the tensioner to be pushed further downward, thus giving you more slack and making the belt easier to install.
I was thinking this would be obvious to anyone who has installed the manual tensioner pulley, but I guess not!

I've done at least 5 of these conversions, and without the L-bracket and using shorter bolts, 1 person can easily get the belt on by following the procedure in the Helms. I put the belt on the tensioner pulley, around the water pump, on the intake cam gear, then slide it onto the exhaust cam gear. Takes less than 2 minutes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22LUDE808 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ordered the L bracket from the parts list above, but didnt see a reason to install it. i dont see how shorter bolts on the oil pump would give the timing belt more slack, since the timing belt doesnt even touch the oil pump.
im probably gonna buy the timing belt slider tool from honda. shitty cuz it cost like $170. but i guess its good to have around.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
putting the belt on sucks when you have a headgasket twice as thick
i removed the cam caps and angled the cam gears down so i could slide the belt on. no way in hell i was gonna get it on the traditional way.
i removed the cam caps and angled the cam gears down so i could slide the belt on. no way in hell i was gonna get it on the traditional way.
where is the L bracket in this picture?

i bought the L bracket because it was on the parts list for the swap. i didnt know i wasnt gonna use it. also when i check with honda they tell me they only find this L bracket:

for an h23 motor.
i know im asking for help but you dont need to talk down to me. i know how a tensioner works. im just having trouble with this hybrid tensioner. if honda just put a manual one on from factory we all wouldnt have to deal with this.
like i said before i dont see an L bracket on my motor, its a 99 jdm h22.
tell me if you see one in the pic.

i bought the L bracket because it was on the parts list for the swap. i didnt know i wasnt gonna use it. also when i check with honda they tell me they only find this L bracket:

for an h23 motor.
i know im asking for help but you dont need to talk down to me. i know how a tensioner works. im just having trouble with this hybrid tensioner. if honda just put a manual one on from factory we all wouldnt have to deal with this.
like i said before i dont see an L bracket on my motor, its a 99 jdm h22.
tell me if you see one in the pic.
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