Product Review: NLR AMS-500 Boost Controller
<FONT SIZE="6">THIS IS NOT A FOR SALE THREAD </FONT>
This boost controller is not available YET, we are doing some testing and whatnot to make sure the product is perfect before its target release of sometime around Christmas.
Here are some pictures we took upon arrival:




FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The unit itself is very compact and simple. I really like the 1/8npt bung on the unit that gives you the option of running a rubber hose, push lock hose, or stainless braided line....you get to make the choice. Every other unit that I have seen with internal map sensor requires you to run standard rubber/silicon hose. We will most likely use push to lock hose on every unit we install.
The basic install of the unit is very simple: Power and ground to the unit, power to each solenoid, ground to the increase solenoid, and ground to the decrease solenoid.
The input 1 and input 2 can be as simple as installing them on a switch or button, or configuring your EMS outputs to trigger the stages.
The rotary switches are behind the face plate so your friends who ride in the car don't mess with stuff they shouldn't, or you don't accidentally change your settings.
The AMS-500 is c02 compatible, but you can also use manifold pressure if you would like.
It uses the same increase and decrease solenoids as the AMS-1000 which work flawlessly.
There are 2 mounting tabs on the unit that make for easy installation/mounting without the need for double sided tape like other units.
It still uses the same process as the AMS-1000 for regulating boost by applying a target pressure to the top of the waste gate rather than trying to regulate manifold pressure. It also has a time based ramp input available, you can set a ramp rate of 0 that will eliminate the ramp if you would like as well.
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We will be testing the unit on a car very soon and will update this thread when we do so. I will do some testing on the dyno and the road. We will use an output from hondata S200 to trigger the inputs on the ams-500 and doing some simple basic switches and buttons for the guys that want to keep it simple.
I am VERY confident this is going to be THE controller to get for the guys who don't need all the features of the ams-1000, or the guys who want a badass boost controller for the street. Also, the awd/rwd guys that don't need as many stages as the ams-1000.
This boost controller is not available YET, we are doing some testing and whatnot to make sure the product is perfect before its target release of sometime around Christmas.
Here are some pictures we took upon arrival:




FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The unit itself is very compact and simple. I really like the 1/8npt bung on the unit that gives you the option of running a rubber hose, push lock hose, or stainless braided line....you get to make the choice. Every other unit that I have seen with internal map sensor requires you to run standard rubber/silicon hose. We will most likely use push to lock hose on every unit we install.
The basic install of the unit is very simple: Power and ground to the unit, power to each solenoid, ground to the increase solenoid, and ground to the decrease solenoid.
The input 1 and input 2 can be as simple as installing them on a switch or button, or configuring your EMS outputs to trigger the stages.
The rotary switches are behind the face plate so your friends who ride in the car don't mess with stuff they shouldn't, or you don't accidentally change your settings.
The AMS-500 is c02 compatible, but you can also use manifold pressure if you would like.
It uses the same increase and decrease solenoids as the AMS-1000 which work flawlessly.
There are 2 mounting tabs on the unit that make for easy installation/mounting without the need for double sided tape like other units.
It still uses the same process as the AMS-1000 for regulating boost by applying a target pressure to the top of the waste gate rather than trying to regulate manifold pressure. It also has a time based ramp input available, you can set a ramp rate of 0 that will eliminate the ramp if you would like as well.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We will be testing the unit on a car very soon and will update this thread when we do so. I will do some testing on the dyno and the road. We will use an output from hondata S200 to trigger the inputs on the ams-500 and doing some simple basic switches and buttons for the guys that want to keep it simple.
I am VERY confident this is going to be THE controller to get for the guys who don't need all the features of the ams-1000, or the guys who want a badass boost controller for the street. Also, the awd/rwd guys that don't need as many stages as the ams-1000.
this is not a for sale thread. i will say it is very competitively priced to any other entry level EBC(however this controller will blow them out of the water). any pricing type questions will be answered once the product is ready to be fully released. thanks
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The rotary switches are behind the face plate so your friends who ride in the car don't mess with stuff they shouldn't, or you don't accidentally change your settings.</TD></TR></TABLE>pictures
The rotary switches are behind the face plate so your friends who ride in the car don't mess with stuff they shouldn't, or you don't accidentally change your settings.</TD></TR></TABLE>pictures
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fast4u831 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pictures
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Again, this is not a sale thread, We want this to simply be a tech related thread to bring you guys/gals info about NLR's newest creation.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, this is not a sale thread, We want this to simply be a tech related thread to bring you guys/gals info about NLR's newest creation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fast4u831 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks Jeff! what's the switch on the bottom left for? 50psi?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, the bottom left rotary dial is for selecting the ramp rate into the 2nd stage of boost.
lol, the bottom left rotary dial is for selecting the ramp rate into the 2nd stage of boost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fast4u831 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice. so I would imagine that the A-F are totally different than the 0-9?</TD></TR></TABLE>
With the dial on 0, it is set for the maximum ramp rate to the second stage of boost, 1-9 is the boost increase per second to the second stage (3 = 3psi per second increase, 5 = 5psi per second increase, etc), and the Letters are in 5psi increments as follows: A = 15psi per second, B = 20psi per second, C = 30psi per second, D = 40psi per second and so on.
With the dial on 0, it is set for the maximum ramp rate to the second stage of boost, 1-9 is the boost increase per second to the second stage (3 = 3psi per second increase, 5 = 5psi per second increase, etc), and the Letters are in 5psi increments as follows: A = 15psi per second, B = 20psi per second, C = 30psi per second, D = 40psi per second and so on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love jeff
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was Gay
looks nice and easy! exactly what people want.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That was Gay
looks nice and easy! exactly what people want.
and just like th ams-1000 any new flashes are free of charge! You will never have an out of date controller. You pay shipping and we reflash at no charge. Nice pics guys!!
just to give you an idea of what the NLR controller's will do....and what all these timers and ramp rates are about here are a few dyno charts of me playing on the dyno with the AMS-1000.
i like the AMS-1000 so much i have one set up to use on the dyno.

this here was simply removing a turbosmart manual boost controller and using the NLR. just notice how much smoother the boost is (sorry i dont have the data logs to post of the boost plots)

here is a car i played with on the dyno....this is the no ramp chart using the ams-1000

here is the same car just using differnt ramp rates, timers, decreases, etc.
keep in mind this is ONE gear on the dyno.....it shows how much adjust ability you have through out a gear.


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now that was obviously using more than just two stages. on our high hp fwd cars, what i am thinking is going to work best (which i will verify shortly) is probably using the 2nd input (the ramp input) as the first stage, and the first input as the 2nd stage. this way we can leave the line with the lowest boost possible, and ramp it through out first gear and possibly into 2nd if need be, then switch over to the high boost, instant target stage.
for even higher hp street cars (i tuned a car yesterday that this might be ideal for) leave the line with no stage active at first....you can run spring pressure in first and past the 1-2 shift activate your ramp stage (input 2) mid way through 2nd or 3rd, where your car needs it, and hit it full targe pressure (input 1) at whatever vehicle speed the tires will hold it with an output through your ems.
lots of differnt options!
for those of you who havnt used a boost controller with ramp rates......it gives you the ability to bring the power on very linear so you can controll wheel spin and apply the most power down at any given point. sometimes just going from low boost to high boost instantly like a typical dual stage controller will just result in a ton of wheel spin. or possibly having to wait longer than you should to switch to high boost which is slowing you down.
im excited to use the ams-500!
i like the AMS-1000 so much i have one set up to use on the dyno.

this here was simply removing a turbosmart manual boost controller and using the NLR. just notice how much smoother the boost is (sorry i dont have the data logs to post of the boost plots)

here is a car i played with on the dyno....this is the no ramp chart using the ams-1000

here is the same car just using differnt ramp rates, timers, decreases, etc.
keep in mind this is ONE gear on the dyno.....it shows how much adjust ability you have through out a gear.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
now that was obviously using more than just two stages. on our high hp fwd cars, what i am thinking is going to work best (which i will verify shortly) is probably using the 2nd input (the ramp input) as the first stage, and the first input as the 2nd stage. this way we can leave the line with the lowest boost possible, and ramp it through out first gear and possibly into 2nd if need be, then switch over to the high boost, instant target stage.
for even higher hp street cars (i tuned a car yesterday that this might be ideal for) leave the line with no stage active at first....you can run spring pressure in first and past the 1-2 shift activate your ramp stage (input 2) mid way through 2nd or 3rd, where your car needs it, and hit it full targe pressure (input 1) at whatever vehicle speed the tires will hold it with an output through your ems.
lots of differnt options!
for those of you who havnt used a boost controller with ramp rates......it gives you the ability to bring the power on very linear so you can controll wheel spin and apply the most power down at any given point. sometimes just going from low boost to high boost instantly like a typical dual stage controller will just result in a ton of wheel spin. or possibly having to wait longer than you should to switch to high boost which is slowing you down.
im excited to use the ams-500!
yes vance this would be the perfect controller for your crx. like we talked about before...the ams-1000 was probably a little bit more than you needed at the time, but you could grow into it.
however this controller is spot on with what you need!
however this controller is spot on with what you need!




