I am installing my JDM Power Folding Mirrors on my 4th gen prelude. I want to be able to have them work automatically with the arming and disarming of the alarm. What I am looking for is a 12V pulse from the alarm when it is armed and disarmed.

Does anyone have any ideas?

My first idea was to tap into the the door lock/unlock leads coming from the alarm. The problem with this options is that this would bypass the relay and would most likely cause a partial folding of the mirrors. So that would not work.

My second option was taping into the alarm siren and using that pulse to activate the relay. Problem with this is multiple cherps would send the mirrors in a frenzy. Also the I believe the voltage would be different.

So this is where I stand right now. Any ideas would be helpful.

Thanks

 

What type of alarm is it? I guess it does not come with any extra connections right that you could program to pulse?

 

IT has extensions but I am looking to find a way to activate the mirrors without using additional buttons. I want to basically wire it into basic arming and disarming of the alarm.

The alarm I have is an Alpine 8046. I have the wiring diagram if this would help.

 

Yes post the diagram, thanks. But basically you might be able to connect to that extra connection and pulse the mirrors to open and close when you arm an disarm. Thats if you can do that with that alarm. And you would not have to hook up any buttons just soder the wires. Let me see the alarm diagram.

 

Use the door lock outputs to control a relay, both the lock and unlock outputs go to #85 of relay, use two diodes from each output, one from each output to the relay and one before the lock and unlock interface with the cars door locks, 12V+ from a constant 12V supply to #30 and #86, #87 goes to mirror switches output.

Arming the alarm, [locking the door] will give a 12V pulse, disarming, [unlocking the doors] will give a 12V pulse, the diodes before the relay keep the lock and unlock isolated from each other and the diodes before the interface with the cars door locks keep the mirrors isolated when using the power door lock switch on the door.

The only problem with the above, is the mirrors can be put out of sync, EG; if you use the mirror button to fold the mirrors in and then arm the alarm the mirrors will fold out. 94

 

Awww. You should have let him use the siren output. Would have been funny to see his alarm go off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awww. You should have let him use the siren output. Would have been funny to see his alarm go off.</TD></TR></TABLE> LOL, flapping JDM mirrors. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boynblue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes post the diagram, thanks. But basically you might be able to connect to that extra connection and pulse the mirrors to open and close when you arm an disarm. Thats if you can do that with that alarm. And you would not have to hook up any buttons just soder the wires. Let me see the alarm diagram.</TD></TR></TABLE>

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Does anyone know what the VIOLET ALARMING OUTPUT is?


Modified by crj_lll at 9:51 PM 8/20/2007

 

It's a positive output for when the alarm is triggered, but it only handles 500mA, so if you want to use it for anything ie a second siren, you'll need to use it to trigger a relay that controls the siren.

No matter what it is you're trying to wire, the wiring will look like this:

violet to 85 on the relay
86 is grounded
30 to a fused constant 12v source
87 to your siren or other device
and then the device ground wire will be grounded of course

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a positive output for when the alarm is triggered, but it only handles 500mA, so if you want to use it for anything ie a second siren, you'll need to use it to trigger a relay that controls the siren.

No matter what it is you're trying to wire, the wiring will look like this:

violet to 85 on the relay
86 is grounded
30 to a fused constant 12v source
87 to your siren or other device
and then the device ground wire will be grounded of course</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto the above.
You will have to use the door lock outputs for the mirrors, as I explained, the Alpine does not have any other single pulse output for both arm and disarm. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Ditto the above.
You will have to use the door lock outputs for the mirrors, as I explained, the Alpine does not have any other single pulse output for both arm and disarm. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

FCM, thanks for the imput, but I am looking for another options as using the door locks would casue the mirrors to flap when the doors lock automatically at 5MPH. So I am looking to find an arm online pulse in the alarm somewhere. The doors locks areactivated when arming and in other situations.

 

I have been thinking about a way to get around the mirrors closing anytime the alarm locks or unlocks the doors. I am wondering if there is a diode or some electronic device that only completes a circuit when there is no power to it and does not complete when there is power to it? The reason this would be good would be that, if placed in the right place, when the car is on, no fold signal would be received by the relay no matter what the alarm did.

What do you think?

 

The 5 MPH door lock is a stock feature of the car not the Alpine alarm, installing a diode on the alarms lock and unlock outputs before they are connected to the cars door lock wiring, will prevent the 5 MPH door lock or locking and locking/unlocking the doors with the door switch, or the key in the drivers door, from activating, the mirrors, they would only activate when alarm is armed and disarmed, or if alarm is in valet mode, when the remote is used for key-less entry. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The 5 MPH door lock is a stock feature of the car not the Alpine alarm, installing a diode on the alarms lock and unlock outputs before they are connected to the cars door lock wiring, will prevent the 5 MPH door lock or locking and locking/unlocking the doors with the door switch, or the key in the drivers door, from activating, the mirrors, they would only activate when alarm is armed and disarmed, or if alarm is in valet mode, when the remote is used for key-less entry. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I take it this is a good idea then?

Or, since the 5 MPH lock feature is standard with the car, would it be easier to connect the mirros to the directly to the alarm so the only did not receive the 5 MPH pulse and then turned the 5 MPH puls off on the alarm?

I think that would work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crj_lll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or, since the 5 MPH lock feature is standard with the car, would it be easier to connect the mirros to the directly to the alarm so the only did not receive the 5 MPH pulse and then turned the 5 MPH puls off on the alarm? </TD></TR></TABLE> Please translate, I have no idea what you are trying to say. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Please translate, I have no idea what you are trying to say. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I refer to directly to the Alarm, I am refering to the mirror connection being located between the alarm and the splice in the car harness as suppsoed to after the splice into the car harness. If I splice into the car harness after the splice for the alarm, the 5 mph would make the mirrors flop when rolling.

I am clear and ready to go under the dash. I will let you know when I am done, in a few days.

 

If you connect the alarms door lock outputs to the mirrors before or after they are connected to the cars door lock wiring without diodes it will make no diff., if the locks are locked or unlocked, no matter how, the mirrors will get a pulse and fold.

Remember, they are parallel connections, before, after or in the middle, makes no diff.
You will have to put a diode on both the lock and unlock alarm leads then connect both the diodes to the same terminal #85 or #86 of the relay, the diodes isolate the leads from each other, you will have to put another diode on both the alarms lock and unlock leads before you connect to the cars lock and unlock leads, this will isolate the cars door lock system from the alarms door lock output.
The ground pulse output from the alarms lock or unlock lead can go through the diode to the cars door lock system, but the cars ground output from 5MPH or door lock switch or drivers door actuator can not go through the diode in the other direction, the diode is a one way gate for electricity. 94

 

What do you think of a pulse timer relaye set to activate with a change of state hooked up to the inigition and then spliced into the activation wire that comes from the mirror control?

I am still trying to understand the full functionality of the pulse timer relay but I am thinking this may allow the mirrors to fold whenver the initiaion wire changes the state it has been in for x number of seconds or minutes.

Let me know what you think?

 

You want ign. controlled mirrors, kind of like ign. controlled door locks, if I understand you.

If I understand, the mirrors are activated by pressing an SPST N/O momentary switch, like a doorbell, it supplies 12V+ to the mirror control module, activating the mirrors to fold in or out, the control module only needs a momentary 12V+ to activate, [you do not have to hold the button] the motors that drive the mirrors have polarity reversing limit switches built in, they fold to their limit and stop, when the button is pressed again, the mirrors fold to their limit the other way.

Is the above correct?
If so then it should be easy to pulse the modules input lead, whenever the ign. is turned on or off.

If the above is not correct, and it is a rocker switch or you have to hold the button, [kind of like power mirror switches], then some kind of timer circuit would be needed.

You can definitely get timer units, that can be triggered in many ways, including "changing state", ign., power on/power off, a power ant. does it with one relay and a pair of limit switches.

The above all depends on exactly how the mirrors work. 94

 

From what I have researched, the mirrors work with a single push of the button. The button does not have to be held down to get them to close.

This is what I am going to attempt to do then.

If you have any idea on cinfiguration, please let me know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crj_lll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I have researched, the mirrors work with a single push of the button. The button does not have to be held down to get them to close.

This is what I am going to attempt to do then.

If you have any idea on cinfiguration, please let me know. </TD></TR></TABLE> We have talked about a number of things, what exactly are you going to attempt to do? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> We have talked about a number of things, what exactly are you going to attempt to do? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have moved away from the alarm and gone to using the ignition. I have posted a diagram of what I am doing on another thread. I got the diagram from http://www.the12volt.com. I just have to get a legend for all the symbols now.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2078318

 

=============================EDIT================= ===================
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crj_lll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

R1 = Resistor 100k
C1 = Capacitor 4.2u

U1A = XOR Gate

Q1 = N-Channel enf MOSFET

D1 = Diode 1N4001 aka 1AMP

K1 = SPDT Relay


================================================== ===============


I think this is an easier setup.

You will need 2 of these setups.

One wired like in the diagram, where the switched +12v is the ignition.

And another wired like this. Just replace 87(Ground) with a +12v Source.

The outputs (Terminal 30) are going to the same wire so make sure you put a blocking diode on them that only allows current to flow in toward the control unit.

All these parts can be bought a http://www.partsexpress.com

Have fun and good luck.

-------edit--------
I've compiled a parts list:

2 x Blocking Diode
2 x 10K ohm Resistor
2 x 1000uf Axial Capacitor - they also carry high temp but not in axial, axial is easier to work with inline.
2 x STDP 30a Automotive Relay (Tyco) - Also have the generic its cheaper, I used these on my alarm install, kill switches, and redone fog/headlight wiring, no problems.
2 x 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket w/Diode - you can also buy the regular ones or the one with sockets for 2 relays and then wire in your own blocking diodes...

You will also need some extra wiring, heat shrink tubing, heat gun, soldering iron, solder, electrical tape(i suggest 3M tartan tape, really flexible and not too gooey), butt crimps, wire crimper, wire striper, etc.

Please read The Basics - covers how to solder, crimp, heat shrink - basically how to wire stuff so stuff doesn't go up in flames or stop working.


Modified by bpr0422 at 12:20 AM 8/26/2007


Modified by bpr0422 at 12:21 AM 8/26/2007

I could build you this unit for $25 for labor and shipping to you (lower 48 states, ups ground) + Parts and shipment of parts to me. PM me if you are interested.

It should work based on that the control unit only requires a momentary +12v pulse to either fold or unfold the mirrors.

PM me if you are interested.


Modified by bpr0422 at 1:43 AM 8/26/2007


Modified by bpr0422 at 1:53 PM 8/27/2007


Modified by bpr0422 at 2:06 PM 8/27/2007

 

THank you for the info but it does not belong in this thread as it has nothing to do with my alpine alarm system.

As for you offer to build, I must decline as you have flamed me and requested one of my threads closed. IF anything, this is the thread that should be closed since I am no longer going with the alpine alarm option.

 

first of all i didn't flame your thread..

second of all your two threads are discussing how to solve the same problem

fold your mirrors when u turn off your car and unfold your mirrors when you turn on your car

why make two threads for the same problem.

yes this thread started out as using your alarm to control it, but eventually people here and yourself decided to use your ignition instead.

I requested that the other thread be closed because the other thread does not explain why you wanted a relay or circuit designed.

This thread has more information on the problem to be solved, the other thread does not.

Sorry if you felt like I flamed your other thread, but seriously - reading that thread I had no idea what you wanted the relay/circuit to accomplish, this thread has a lot more detail on what your actual problem is.