01 honda accord , 4 cyl ULEV

my o2 sensor went out, (primary) and so i got one @ pep boys, bosch, w/ the plug (so i dont have to play w/ wires). anyway when i reset the ECU w/ OBD scanner it pops back up after 1-4 minutes. the car's performance improved but the MIL did not go off, now i read on this board that ULEV's are very sensitive engines and others had the same problem w/ aftermarket sensors.

I called dealership they said the original brand is Denso and costs $350!!! Ok for me it's not worth it paying 250$ extra just to get the stupid MIL off the dashboard!!!! The engine runs fine now.
Anywya where can I get a quality o2 sensor (preferrably Denso or other brand that is guaranteed to work) for under $150????

Hit me up guys! i really need it, this o2 havoc is pissing me offff!!

 

ebay is god at deals!

 

holy markup batman

heres what i did, somehow get to the denso website, peruse thru till u get to their O2 sensors, then go there and look around until you find a place to type in ur car make/model, then it will have a list for year 2001 accords, and u pick ur sensor by the engine code, and then get details, and it should have a thingy on there somewheres, that u clack for their official retailers, yadda yadda, gimme a minute ill find it for ya and post the link, (maybe the link should be stickied) cuz, the front O2 sensor, by denso, OEM fit, simple as driving automatic...80bucks, versus autozones 180 for denso and dealerships like 350bucks, it will be shipped in the mail with free shipping (i think)

glad you asked!!

 

See if you can find that link where you bought it, there is the website http://www.densoaftermarket.com/ but is that OEM or "Aftermarket". My primary worry is that the part will not work in my Honda.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy markup batman

heres what i did, somehow get to the denso website, peruse thru till u get to their O2 sensors, then go there and look around until you find a place to type in ur car make/model, then it will have a list for year 2001 accords, and u pick ur sensor by the engine code, and then get details, and it should have a thingy on there somewheres, that u clack for their official retailers, yadda yadda, gimme a minute ill find it for ya and post the link, (maybe the link should be stickied) cuz, the front O2 sensor, by denso, OEM fit, simple as driving automatic...80bucks, versus autozones 180 for denso and dealerships like 350bucks, it will be shipped in the mail with free shipping (i think)

glad you asked!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

http://www.densoaftermarket.co...=o2sn
there ya go, woo, i found it

but yeah for yours, from the denso website is 185 for the front, assuming your cars specs

well, one other way i found while looking for the product search page for denso cuz their layout blows, is to go to http://www.autopartswarehouse.com, under the replacement catalog, and then you will find it under fuel injection, but you need to know whether your car is USA made or JAPAN made, also if its a california model, and mine was 85 there, but right below it was another, front-denso-direct fit-sensor but the last digit of the part number was different by one digit and it was $20 less


heres your link
http://replacement.autopartswa...=true

you probably got more details than i do whether or not its a SULEV, cuz apperently, california has F23A4's in both ULEV and SULEV, but ULEV/SULEV doesnt make a difference except for the rear sensor

well, its either 185 at denso's site or ~200 from autopartswarehouse.com, idk, youd have to look at both urself to find the exact right one

 

densoaftermarket.com, where you looked up the sensors, just redirects you to http://www.densoproducts.com
the aftermarket thing is just a name, its waay faster to go to densoproducts.com and enter the information, cuz then it will only show you the sensors you need to see (on mine it displays 4 sensors, one rear universal a front universal, a rear oem one and a front oem one)

o and for some reason, autoparts warehouse had the rear sensor under the front, thats the thing i was talking about where there was a $20 difference and one digit difference in the part number

 

Autopart ware house did not have Denso for ULEV ((((((((((((((( aaargh. blaH!!

 

I FOUND IT!! Duh..it's on Denso's website. But they got two very identical sensors for my engine number, but about a 100$ differance--

http://www.densoproducts.com/r...yID=2

Question is--what is the differance, i rather save 100$ and buy the cheaper one.
I'm looking at these two serial numbers.

234-9014
234-4620

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">densoaftermarket.com, where you looked up the sensors, just redirects you to http://www.densoproducts.com
the aftermarket thing is just a name, its waay faster to go to densoproducts.com and enter the information, cuz then it will only show you the sensors you need to see (on mine it displays 4 sensors, one rear universal a front universal, a rear oem one and a front oem one)

o and for some reason, autoparts warehouse had the rear sensor under the front, thats the thing i was talking about where there was a $20 difference and one digit difference in the part number</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ok nevermind ..

234-9014 is for ULEV
234-4620 is for non-ulev

 

found this from denso, there really seems to be alot of contradicting info between denso and autopartswarehouse.com, if you know the actual part number you need, thatd help, also what about the air/fuel sensor?


Super Class AIR/FUEL SENSOR 234-9014 234-9014 FRONT; $179.04

Super Class OE identical O2 sensor 234-4620 234-4620 FRONT; $76.94

Super Class OE identical O2 sensor 234-4621 234-4621 REAR; $38.41

Super Class OE identical O2 sensor 234-4122 234-4122 REAR; $33.82

 

is not oxygen sensor and air/fuel sensor the same crap?

i think i need part 234-9014 because that supports ULEV .. check this
http://www.densoaftermarket.co...CCORD

On this website it says model #234-4620 says "Exc ULEV".

Anywya isnt oxygen sensor and air/fuel sensor same crap?
I'd be pleased to find out its not but i think it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Terabass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i need part 234-9014 because that supports ULEV ... </TD></TR></TABLE>

looks like it, funny that they call that one a air/fuel sensor, they both basically do the same thing, by sensing oxygen, the computer can figure out the air/fuel ratio, this one here (234-9014), i thinki read on denso's website where the brag about how badass their stuff is, was saying that there are 2 kinds of O2 sensors, the normal kind, and then that planar kind like the 234-9014, the planar kind is the newer crap and is more accurate and faster response...

 

i guess I need the planar crap, ...next time i will by a gas hogging 3.0 V6 so i can have less problems and pay less.

...unless the government wants to tax deduct my o2 sensor because i'm running environmental friendly.

 

I drove to the distributor center, it's in butt expletive USA in california. I thought mapquest had given me the wrong directions because i had to take a dirt road to get to the distributor center. crazy. but hey i got a good deal. saved me 100 $

 

nothing will get rid of the CEL(code42 btw) other than oem,

don't try anything else because i did

 

well yeah that's why i drove there to get the denso oxygen sensor. it's much cheaper there than in stores/dealers and it's the official denso distributor that would ship to you if decided to buy it online from densoproducts.com

hey is the oxygen sensor light supposed to go off by itself when you install a functioning oxygen sensor or do you have to reset ECU w/ OBD scanner

 

have your radio code handy and you can reset the ECU by unhooking the battery negative for 10-15 seconds or remove the underhood back up fuse for 10-15 sec.

 

Going to autozone and getting the OBD II scanner was easier. if u unhook battery gotta re-calibrate engine and crap..which just means u gotta drive 30-50 miles