sorry if i'm riiced.

couple days ago
i was at a gas station & got a hit & run when i went inside to pay cash.
& i didnt set my alarm on but its a long story....
all i can say is.. dont pay inside!

but here is the damage before & STILL WORKING ON IT!
hopefully the car will be ready. cuz i gatta go to work by 12pm.

here the pixs

before













it is a custom paint. but i just used the stock paint to respray it & it kinda comes out ok but here is 1 pix where i did some body work where u can see where it need's to be gloss.



but tell me what u think?

 

Great but your not done yet you need some 05 tail lights.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 eM2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The body work on the trunk:
You do know water and bare metal don't mix well together right? It looks like you hosed it off with water. Body filler (or Bondo as it has become known by) is porous and absorbs water. So by the time you add your topcoats, the bond between the filler and metal becomes compromised as rust starts to occur.

In other words after you paint it, it will look good at first but then a "bubble" will start to appear as the filler lifts away from the metal.

You're supposed to clean the area with a mild solvent (I use Dupont's Final Clean) and then use an EPOXY or Etching primer. Then layer on a sandable Primer Surfacer(usually Urethane Primer aka 2K primer surfacer). Wetsand, and your're ready for paint depending on how well you did the bodywork.

Goodluck.

 

i didnt mix the bondo with water AT ALL!
i just rinse after words. thats all.
i dryed it up with a shammy. i was in a hurry for pixs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 eM2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt mix the bondo with water AT ALL!
i just rinse after words. thats all.</TD></TR></TABLE>


read my post again. I edited like 20 times.

Yeah you want to avoid water at all times! Until there is a corrosion resistant primer(i.e EPOXY primer), THEN you can use water all you want.

Water comes into the picture when you are wetsanding 2K primer or other topcoats.

On another note, you don't want to wetsand a Polyester primer because those are porous too UNLESS you laid down an EPOXY primer first.


Modified by tnbigdawg at 12:03 AM 9/30/2006

 

i'll be in good hands. good lookin on the info.

 

Hate to say it, but I know from the my first encounter with Bondo, if you put water on it, you should expect to see rust. I don't care how good the hands are, you just poured water onto a sponge, and are going to paint over it. The surface will look dry, but there will be some unevaporated moisture that, no matter what you think, will still be in the Bondo.

 

no matter what theres fog all on the windows & body. either way theres still water on it. i just took a peak, its lookin good!
& gatta go to the store to pick up a few things for the job.

here is another pix tooken this morning.

 

dont expletive it up

ive seen the outcome

 

i keep on posting some pixs
in the mean time.. time to finished the job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hate to say it, but I know from the my first encounter with Bondo, if you put water on it, you should expect to see rust. I don't care how good the hands are, you just poured water onto a sponge, and are going to paint over it. The surface will look dry, but there will be some unevaporated moisture that, no matter what you think, will still be in the Bondo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, it's just that I have experience in this field and trying to share the knowledge.

On another note....The body filler should not overlap paint. The only filler that sticks best to paint would be a 2 part icing which is a polyester finishing filler(not really needed). You might get away with it for now, but it might lift on you. I know you're still gonna work on it but just a heads up, the filler should be feathered out more. You don't want hard lines ever on anything.

When you prime, let it fan out as a transition. Don't primer it over a tape line or else you'll create a line that will appear when you paint even when you've think you sanded it out.


Oh yeah, do keep posting pics and update on your progress

 

uhhh

 

i think you've put too much on, and its too thick. keep us updated

 

here out it came out last weekend.
there was alot of rain.
i couldnt spray it, cuz it wouldnt came out right.
so i decided to do it.
& i did! & hoping i would get some time today while there's sunlight to respray it again!


yesterday...

freeway, traffic, bumper to bumper, people cutting me off, had to tailgate,
40mph, saw a pot hole, was in the fast lane, going to livermore, far right lane & the one next to it, was on road construction, ONLY 2 lanes open, saw a pot hole, I swerve'd BUT NOT ENOUGH!, cought my left rear wheel, SMACK!, took the next exit, saw it & it was BADD NEWS!



this one is going to be harder....
~....teary....~

any idea's?

 

sorry about your luck man

 

 

throw the Stanley head and tail lights back on and it'll look a whoooole lot better

 

the jdm gods are coming after you

/sarcasm

 

holy crap, im going to keep my eyes peeled if im ever on those freeways, but i always cut through the canyon/hills on 84 anyways.

580/205 sucks ***.

sorry about the bad luck

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jules Winnfield &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry about your luck man </TD></TR></TABLE>

i sure as hell don't feel bad. your exterior mods are hideous and obviously not very good for daily driving.

 

just find your old tails and get them on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lesturrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just find your old tails and get them on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

problem!

<U>MOLDING</U>.


the one on top is 45series

the bottom one is 35series (I MISS THEM!)

 

Looks like your kit is molded on? That sucks man. Now you gotta paint the whole rear section all the way to the front fenders just for a bumper and sideskirt repair.

A bodyshop can get away with just spot repair/blend of the basecoat, but the clear should be applied to all connecting panels. In other words don't let them do a blend of the clear coat.

Goodluck.