So today I was working on my R, lowered the engine and transmission through the bottom. However, the b**** pin was harder than normal. I used an AC bolt because it has a tapered end but that didnt do it. So I got an air hammer with a punch. Well, stupid me, I hit it so hard the tip broke off and is wedged in the hole. The pin was pushed about 7/8" out but wont come out.

How do I get it removed?

Here are the pictures. So I seperated the block and transmission but the linkage is still connected (for obvious reasons).

 

swing the linkage to the side, then usa small roll pin punch to hit out the broken tip back the way it went it. or just try and drill out the broken tip down the middle of the pin

 

roll pin punch is on of my most fav. tools.
itll bang it out in 2 seconds.

 

Are you trying to take that off while it's on the car???? I always drop the transmission with it attached and then deal with that pin once I have free room to whack away with a hammer and an apropriate sized bolt or punch. Usually starts to move after a few good whacks. Then I always lube that thing up when I put it back in for the next time I need to drop it.

 

common migs you know better then that bro! btw HAHA you need daddy to take care of it for you?

 

Jim and Jeff use a IIRC 5/32, 1/4" drive (deep) socket with a heavy blow hammer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94rs-turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">common migs you know better then that bro! btw HAHA you need daddy to take care of it for you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Come on Migs... Buy the damn punch in a long version its not worth the trouble not to own one.. Tisk tisk.

 

Looks like my only option is to drill it out. My concern is that I may enlarge the hole larger than the standard size. If I do this, are there larger sizes available?

 

screw driver + hammer??

 

u got it out that far but it wont come the rest of the way? usually the hardest part is just getting it started. see if you can squeeze it with pliers and pull it out.

the last time I had a problem with the pin, I had to use one of those claw type joint pullers, and I used a small bolt to PUSH the pin out. it really was a BITCH.

 

When **** gets stuck, I break out the torch.

 

The easiet way is to ue an impact hammer to get the pin started and then a punch remover after.

With the pin being that far out already I'd say, don't be a sally and hit it again, and it will pop out.

If your worried about drilling it you can buy replacements at any hardware store, they may not be the exact same size but it will work if its enlarged.

 

Not only is the pin that FAR out but its not easy to remove. ON TOP OF THAT the TIP of my air hammer broke off inside that hole. So, I would be drilling out the tip of the air hammer and the rest of the pin that you see there.

If it was only the pin that was that far out, I wouldnt have made this thread.

 

just get a really small punch or phillips head screw driver and hit the broke punch from the opposite side through the center of the pin to knock it out....... then get the right punch and hit the pin out the rest of the way

 

matco has a specialized tool for it.

Part#: MST6455 Price: $21.80 http://www.matcotools.com/Cata...64&ut=

 

Thanks for posting that matco tool.

I *hate* that stupid pin - could never get it out...ending up disconnecting at the other end (under shifter) lol.

 

that pin on the shift linkage is the biggest pain in the ***!! I struggled to get that POS out on my GSR and fought even more to get it back in...

GOOD LUCK!

 

use a 10mm bolt.

 

helps alot to soak it in wd40.
but the ac bolt trick never failed for me. just go easy haha

 

i tried that bolt trick yesterday and that was a charm! but i am concidering replacing that pin with a bolt. have anyone tried that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXnorway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried that bolt trick yesterday and that was a charm! but i am concidering replacing that pin with a bolt. have anyone tried that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but you'll get more slop in your transmission linkage. That's the only disadvantage. With the correct sized bolt, this might not be a big issue.

 

I've used an intake manifold stud (M8x1.25) with a pair of M8x1.25 flange nuts as a replacement for the spring pin.

The tools I've had the most success with in removing and installing the spring pin are Matco Tools Compocast hammer and a Sears Craftsman 5/16" rolled pin punch. The regular pin punches like to move around too much and get all bent out of shape.

 

is matcos official name for the tool "Bitch Pin Remover"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not only is the pin that FAR out but its not easy to remove. ON TOP OF THAT the TIP of my air hammer broke off inside that hole. So, I would be drilling out the tip of the air hammer and the rest of the pin that you see there.

If it was only the pin that was that far out, I wouldnt have made this thread. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why doesnt anyone understand what ur saying? I would try a pair of vice grips on the pin itself (prob will need a new pin afterwards) Once that is out find a punch and try to wack the broken piece of impact hammer out of there. All else fails you could drill it out but I would be very careful not to widen the whole....

 

i usually get a drill bit that fits and hammer it out with a drill bit or small screwdriver, 5 seconds.