Timing Belt Install
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Timing Belt Install
Going to install my timing belt on my ITR this weekend
What are some of the Do's and Dont's? What is sufficient for holding the cams aligned? Going to op for a helms before hand, hopefully it goes well
What are some of the Do's and Dont's? What is sufficient for holding the cams aligned? Going to op for a helms before hand, hopefully it goes well
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Re: Timing Belt Install (Circa)
The only thing I can stress is that you have an extra timing belt tensioner bolt on hand. For something that is torqued down to 41 ft-lbs is sure made of some cheap *** metal.
The space that you will have to work with is rated a 10 on the PITA scale. What I did, since I've been swapping cams like crazy is that I drilled a hole through the fender well just big enough for my 14mm socket to go through it so I could get proper leverage on the bolt.
Also use a six sided socket and make it 1/2 inch. 12 sided will definately strip it.
Setting the tension via the helms IMO is also a PITA. I did the coat hanger trick. Tensions the belt in a fraction of the time.
Good luck.
The space that you will have to work with is rated a 10 on the PITA scale. What I did, since I've been swapping cams like crazy is that I drilled a hole through the fender well just big enough for my 14mm socket to go through it so I could get proper leverage on the bolt.
Also use a six sided socket and make it 1/2 inch. 12 sided will definately strip it.
Setting the tension via the helms IMO is also a PITA. I did the coat hanger trick. Tensions the belt in a fraction of the time.
Good luck.
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From: Tampa, FL
Re: Timing Belt Install (Circa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Going to install my timing belt on my ITR this weekend
What are some of the Do's and Dont's? What is sufficient for holding the cams aligned? Going to op for a helms before hand, hopefully it goes well </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock cams? If so just follow the helms, use a 6 point on the tensioner as brando pointed out (although you should always use a 6 point on a 6 point bolt head anyways).
The coat hanger trick works, but I prefer the "honda" method when it works, then the screw driver method, but that's just a personal preference.
What are some of the Do's and Dont's? What is sufficient for holding the cams aligned? Going to op for a helms before hand, hopefully it goes well
</TD></TR></TABLE>Stock cams? If so just follow the helms, use a 6 point on the tensioner as brando pointed out (although you should always use a 6 point on a 6 point bolt head anyways).
The coat hanger trick works, but I prefer the "honda" method when it works, then the screw driver method, but that's just a personal preference.
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From: not walker111 do a search hoes
Re: Timing Belt Install (Dave-ROR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock cams? If so just follow the helms, use a 6 point on the tensioner as brando pointed out (although you should always use a 6 point on a 6 point bolt head anyways).
The coat hanger trick works, but I prefer the "honda" method when it works, then the screw driver method, but that's just a personal preference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
I've never seen the coat hanger thing.
Stock cams? If so just follow the helms, use a 6 point on the tensioner as brando pointed out (although you should always use a 6 point on a 6 point bolt head anyways).
The coat hanger trick works, but I prefer the "honda" method when it works, then the screw driver method, but that's just a personal preference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
I've never seen the coat hanger thing.
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From: New Jersey
Re: Timing Belt Install (Haleiwa-Brando)
Did you really drill a hole through your ITR frame just to get to the tensioner bolt?
And for the timing belt install you don't need a coat hanger! Why would you use that when you have the timing cover off?
Use 2 thin screwdrivers to hold the cam gears on top dead.
Timing belts are very easy. You will see.
Just torque everything to specs and you'll be fine. And use 6-point sockets.
Don't - drill a hole through your frame,
Don't - use a coat hanger,
Don't - buy a new tensioner bolt,
Don't - use a cheap torque wrench,
Don't - use 12-point craftsman sockets,
And for the timing belt install you don't need a coat hanger! Why would you use that when you have the timing cover off?
Use 2 thin screwdrivers to hold the cam gears on top dead.
Timing belts are very easy. You will see.
Just torque everything to specs and you'll be fine. And use 6-point sockets.
Don't - drill a hole through your frame,
Don't - use a coat hanger,
Don't - buy a new tensioner bolt,
Don't - use a cheap torque wrench,
Don't - use 12-point craftsman sockets,
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Re: Timing Belt Install (B18ek)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you really drill a hole through your ITR frame just to get to the tensioner bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't. ITR's don't have a frame. They have a unibody. I drilled through that. I'm a lame *** I guess. To justify my actions, I had a completely stripped timing belt tensioner bolt that needed to come off. I was not going to pull my engine for one stupid bolt. I park on a severly slanted drive way. My options were severely limited.
Regardless, I'd recommend drilling a hole to anyone. Guess I'm fucked up that way
If that hole bothers me that much I'll weld it closed.
I didn't. ITR's don't have a frame. They have a unibody. I drilled through that. I'm a lame *** I guess. To justify my actions, I had a completely stripped timing belt tensioner bolt that needed to come off. I was not going to pull my engine for one stupid bolt. I park on a severly slanted drive way. My options were severely limited.
Regardless, I'd recommend drilling a hole to anyone. Guess I'm fucked up that way
If that hole bothers me that much I'll weld it closed.
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From: Richmond, Va
Re: Timing Belt Install (Haleiwa-Brando)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't. ITR's don't have a frame. They have a unibody. I drilled through that. I'm a lame *** I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG. I guess if the damn thing was stripped but even then I wouldn't drill through the unibody. I just hand tighten the tensioner and that seems to do the trick. This is via Helms method.
I didn't. ITR's don't have a frame. They have a unibody. I drilled through that. I'm a lame *** I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG. I guess if the damn thing was stripped but even then I wouldn't drill through the unibody. I just hand tighten the tensioner and that seems to do the trick. This is via Helms method.
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From: Mrs. Sauga, Ontario, Canada
Re: Timing Belt Install (Circa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is sufficient for holding the cams aligned?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Use some drill bits. Don't have to be the exact size.
Some other tips:
1) Follow the helm for the belt installation order on which pulleys.
2) On the last pulley (either the intake on the exhaust) you'll be half a tooth off to get the belt on the tight side between the intake and exhaust pulley. Use a wrench or ratchet to slight turn that last pulley 1/2 a tooth to get that belt tight.
3) Break loose the crank pulley bolt first before your get really started. Many times this will stop you in your tracks.
4) Take your time and if you have any doubts that the belt is finally tight it is probably too loose (note to self: check the amount of tension that is on the old belt before removal)
Good luck. Very satisfying experience when you save a sh*t load of cash doing such an easy manitenance item. Don't worry it'll only take you a few hours after your 3 or 4th time doing one.
Use some drill bits. Don't have to be the exact size.
Some other tips:
1) Follow the helm for the belt installation order on which pulleys.
2) On the last pulley (either the intake on the exhaust) you'll be half a tooth off to get the belt on the tight side between the intake and exhaust pulley. Use a wrench or ratchet to slight turn that last pulley 1/2 a tooth to get that belt tight.
3) Break loose the crank pulley bolt first before your get really started. Many times this will stop you in your tracks.
4) Take your time and if you have any doubts that the belt is finally tight it is probably too loose (note to self: check the amount of tension that is on the old belt before removal)
Good luck. Very satisfying experience when you save a sh*t load of cash doing such an easy manitenance item. Don't worry it'll only take you a few hours after your 3 or 4th time doing one.
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From: UK
Re: Timing Belt Install (stumpyf4)
I just done my belt for the first time.
Managed to round my tensioner bolt off too. Thing is I had read about it before, a lot of people do it - that bolt is soft. Do make sure you got a spare one just in case.
Cant believe you drilled through the body, do you mean the chassis leg? Im not dissing you - i just didnt think it was an option. I dremeled mine, cut into the washer till 1/2 fell out then knocked the rest out, the bolt comes out with no hassle then. Dont get me wrong thou its PITA
One thing you can do which really helped me is mark the old belt first then do the same with the new belt. Kinda reassured me when i put the new one on.
Depending on your mileage you might wanna change the tensioner too. I did mine its easy while you got everything else off.
Managed to round my tensioner bolt off too. Thing is I had read about it before, a lot of people do it - that bolt is soft. Do make sure you got a spare one just in case.
Cant believe you drilled through the body, do you mean the chassis leg? Im not dissing you - i just didnt think it was an option. I dremeled mine, cut into the washer till 1/2 fell out then knocked the rest out, the bolt comes out with no hassle then. Dont get me wrong thou its PITA
One thing you can do which really helped me is mark the old belt first then do the same with the new belt. Kinda reassured me when i put the new one on.
Depending on your mileage you might wanna change the tensioner too. I did mine its easy while you got everything else off.
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Re: Timing Belt Install (BenMasters2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BenMasters2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just done my belt for the first time.
One thing you can do which really helped me is mark the old belt first then do the same with the new belt. Kinda reassured me when i put the new one on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly did you do to mark the belt? </TD></TR></TABLE>
bump because i got to change mine soon
One thing you can do which really helped me is mark the old belt first then do the same with the new belt. Kinda reassured me when i put the new one on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly did you do to mark the belt? </TD></TR></TABLE>
bump because i got to change mine soon
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From: Monterey, CA
Re: Timing Belt Install (Circa)
as a Honda Tech Ill show a Tool that i use for the stupid tensioner you can buy it anywhere ,sears,snap on matco,etc but i know sears have it made by gearwrench works like a champ, you dont have to drill a hole no offense to anyone but the wrench extends into the tight spot and with "red wrench" pictured slides into the box end with a socket on the other end and its a six point ratchet
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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From: The Empire State
Re: (citrus3000psi)
buy a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet and use six point sockets. As for holding the cams in place, I use drill bits myself, but snap-on makes a nifty cam holding tool. But that's just for balla *** mechanics. 
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Re: (irishone)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irishone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy a long handle 1/4" drive ratchet and use six point sockets. As for holding the cams in place, I use drill bits myself, but snap-on makes a nifty cam holding tool. But that's just for balla *** mechanics.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
where do the drill bits go? through the gears to prevent it from moving? maybe i can't picture it in my head, but will the bits butt up against the cam and head preventing it from moving?
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
where do the drill bits go? through the gears to prevent it from moving? maybe i can't picture it in my head, but will the bits butt up against the cam and head preventing it from moving?
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From: The Empire State
Re: (KiddEng)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KiddEng »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
where do the drill bits go? through the gears to prevent it from moving? maybe i can't picture it in my head, but will the bits butt up against the cam and head preventing it from moving?</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you have the the timing set to top dead center just before you release tension on the belt to take it off. You'll see a small hole on the top of each cam right by the cam gears. You'll put two small (3/16") drill bits in there to hold the cams in place while you take off the t-belt.
hope that helps.
where do the drill bits go? through the gears to prevent it from moving? maybe i can't picture it in my head, but will the bits butt up against the cam and head preventing it from moving?</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you have the the timing set to top dead center just before you release tension on the belt to take it off. You'll see a small hole on the top of each cam right by the cam gears. You'll put two small (3/16") drill bits in there to hold the cams in place while you take off the t-belt.
hope that helps.
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From: Atlantis
Re: (irishone)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irishone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you have the the timing set to top dead center just before you release tension on the belt to take it off. You'll see a small hole on the top of each cam right by the cam gears. You'll put two small (3/16") drill bits in there to hold the cams in place while you take off the t-belt.
hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The helms actually mentions this trick... but they suggest using something like a punch and just slide it in to hold them at tdc.
But yeah, just about anything in the proper diameter and length will work.
For those with aftermarket cams, they don't necessarily have these holes in them.....
hope that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The helms actually mentions this trick... but they suggest using something like a punch and just slide it in to hold them at tdc.
But yeah, just about anything in the proper diameter and length will work.
For those with aftermarket cams, they don't necessarily have these holes in them.....
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From: The Empire State
Re: (Black R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The helms actually mentions this trick... but they suggest using something like a punch and just slide it in to hold them at tdc.
But yeah, just about anything in the proper diameter and length will work.
For those with aftermarket cams, they don't necessarily have these holes in them..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, I had never thought of that. Good call
The helms actually mentions this trick... but they suggest using something like a punch and just slide it in to hold them at tdc.
But yeah, just about anything in the proper diameter and length will work.
For those with aftermarket cams, they don't necessarily have these holes in them..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, I had never thought of that. Good call
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From: Vtec Land, USA
Re: (KiddEng)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock cams? If so just follow the helms, use a 6 point on the tensioner as brando pointed out (although you should always use a 6 point on a 6 point bolt head anyways).
The coat hanger trick works, but I prefer the "honda" method when it works, then the screw driver method, but that's just a personal preference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what happens if u dont have stock cams how do you tighten the timing belt back then?
Stock cams? If so just follow the helms, use a 6 point on the tensioner as brando pointed out (although you should always use a 6 point on a 6 point bolt head anyways).
The coat hanger trick works, but I prefer the "honda" method when it works, then the screw driver method, but that's just a personal preference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what happens if u dont have stock cams how do you tighten the timing belt back then?
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From: toronto, ontario, canada
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From: The Empire State
Re: (BoBo Racing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoBo Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what happens if u dont have stock cams how do you tighten the timing belt back then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then you need that balla *** snap-on cam holding tool I was reffering too earlier.
what happens if u dont have stock cams how do you tighten the timing belt back then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then you need that balla *** snap-on cam holding tool I was reffering too earlier.
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Re: (irishone)
Quote, originally posted by BenMasters2 »
I just done my belt for the first time.
One thing you can do which really helped me is mark the old belt first then do the same with the new belt. Kinda reassured me when i put the new one on.
Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »
What exactly did you do to mark the belt?
anyone know where to "mark the belt"? or just mark the old belt while still on the car, and then make the same marks on the new belt....so that when i go to reinstall, the new marks should match the old belt marks? like a confirmation check?
I just done my belt for the first time.
One thing you can do which really helped me is mark the old belt first then do the same with the new belt. Kinda reassured me when i put the new one on.
Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »
What exactly did you do to mark the belt?
anyone know where to "mark the belt"? or just mark the old belt while still on the car, and then make the same marks on the new belt....so that when i go to reinstall, the new marks should match the old belt marks? like a confirmation check?