Results after Alignment check after 5lug conversion
I converted the 4lugs (4by114.3) off my 96SpecR to the 5lugs from a 99 itr. With just simply doin the conversion, and goin to check how the alignment is, these are the results. The car pulls very very little to the right, barely noticeable.
I just want to get your guys input on what i should do, where should the numbers be around, and what camber kit i should use if any? btw, id like to get it perfect before EXPO6!
(no i dont plan to run on those tires either, lol.)
Here are pics:


I just want to get your guys input on what i should do, where should the numbers be around, and what camber kit i should use if any? btw, id like to get it perfect before EXPO6!
(no i dont plan to run on those tires either, lol.)Here are pics:


That camber shouldn't really be an issue, but your toe is way out of whack which is definitely causing the car to pull to one side and will eat through your tires pretty quickly. If you want a camber kit, I've had nothing but great experiences with the Skunk2 in front. The washer trick always works pretty well in the rear.
Did the alignment shop adjust anything? By reading the before and after readings, it doesn't look like it.
Call the shop up asap and tell them to set the toe to zero. Your thrust angle should be zero as well..
Call the shop up asap and tell them to set the toe to zero. Your thrust angle should be zero as well..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Understeer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did the alignment shop adjust anything? By reading the before and after readings, it doesn't look like it.
Call the shop up asap and tell them to set the toe to zero. Your thrust angle should be zero as well.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no, the shop didnt touch anything, they just measured things, so i know where it stands.
i know i want some camber for track, im just not sure if this is too excessive? and the toe they can fix by the tie rod ends.
Call the shop up asap and tell them to set the toe to zero. Your thrust angle should be zero as well.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no, the shop didnt touch anything, they just measured things, so i know where it stands.
i know i want some camber for track, im just not sure if this is too excessive? and the toe they can fix by the tie rod ends.
Just fix the toe and if you want less rear camber put a washer or two in there. I don't think the front camber is overly excessive though (as long as toe is set to zero!)
You're running almost 1/2" of toe in on the front!!!!
You're running almost 1/2" of toe in on the front!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're running almost 1/2" of toe in on the front!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, your toe is really crazy. I run more camber than that without a kit, and have no wear issues with 0 toe.
You're running almost 1/2" of toe in on the front!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, your toe is really crazy. I run more camber than that without a kit, and have no wear issues with 0 toe.
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As stated several times, ask for 0.00* toe on all four wheels. If your going to mess with adding washers on the rear UCA bolts, do it before you get the alignment.
If the car still pulls afterwards, it will be from the difference in caster. You have .7* more caster on the left side of the vehicle than the right. That is a small difference, but may cause a slight drift to the right. Chances are it will drive great...
If the car still pulls afterwards, it will be from the difference in caster. You have .7* more caster on the left side of the vehicle than the right. That is a small difference, but may cause a slight drift to the right. Chances are it will drive great...
Actually for tracking the car you want 0 Degrees rear and about 1/16 toe OUT front (each side) which yields 1/8 total toe OUT in front. the toe out will give you a nicer turn-in response and will not chew up the tires. the current toe you are running will eat em up real quick. The camber is a non-issue as long as you fix the toe, it will actually help immensily in cornering.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just fix the toe and if you want less rear camber put a washer or two in there. I don't think the front camber is overly excessive though (as long as toe is set to zero!)
You're running almost 1/2" of toe in on the front!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its in deg...not inches.
You're running almost 1/2" of toe in on the front!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Its in deg...not inches.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xerox445 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its in deg...not inches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes I know .... -.99 degrees with those tires = -.40"
Its in deg...not inches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes I know .... -.99 degrees with those tires = -.40"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes I know .... -.99 degrees with those tires = -.40" </TD></TR></TABLE>
But...You first have to determine if the machine measures off the dia of the wheel, or the tire. Then you can do that. Hunter Racks measure off the wheel, but I don't know the specifics of any other machines.
yes I know .... -.99 degrees with those tires = -.40" </TD></TR></TABLE>
But...You first have to determine if the machine measures off the dia of the wheel, or the tire. Then you can do that. Hunter Racks measure off the wheel, but I don't know the specifics of any other machines.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I converted the 4lugs (4by114.3) off my 96SpecR</TD></TR></TABLE>
*OT* Was this car repainted? Yellow wasn't an option for 96spec's as far as I know.
btw, post more pics of the R
*OT* Was this car repainted? Yellow wasn't an option for 96spec's as far as I know.
btw, post more pics of the R
Thanks alot for the good replies guys, really helping me out here, ill get my toe to near 0 as possible and see how it drives after that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 808dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*OT* Was this car repainted? Yellow wasn't an option for 96spec's as far as I know.
btw, post more pics of the R
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, the car was repainted, originally c-w. ill post more pics at a later date!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 808dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*OT* Was this car repainted? Yellow wasn't an option for 96spec's as far as I know.
btw, post more pics of the R
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, the car was repainted, originally c-w. ill post more pics at a later date!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xerox445 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But...You first have to determine if the machine measures off the dia of the wheel, or the tire. Then you can do that. Hunter Racks measure off the wheel, but I don't know the specifics of any other machines.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK ... lets say it was mesured by wheel dia. For a 15" it would still be .4321" of total toe
http://www.smartracingproducts...v.pdf
But...You first have to determine if the machine measures off the dia of the wheel, or the tire. Then you can do that. Hunter Racks measure off the wheel, but I don't know the specifics of any other machines.
</TD></TR></TABLE>OK ... lets say it was mesured by wheel dia. For a 15" it would still be .4321" of total toe
http://www.smartracingproducts...v.pdf
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlapSmak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually for tracking the car you want 0 Degrees rear and about 1/16 toe OUT front (each side) which yields 1/8 total toe OUT in front. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's way too much for a street car, and maybe even the track (depending on your skill level / preference). I usually go with 1/16" total, but with the amount of camber I'm running, I have to set it when I get to the track. Otherwise, I get inside edge wear and feathering.
That's way too much for a street car, and maybe even the track (depending on your skill level / preference). I usually go with 1/16" total, but with the amount of camber I'm running, I have to set it when I get to the track. Otherwise, I get inside edge wear and feathering.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so in conclusion, for myself,being more for daily street driving, and like 2-3 times a month on track..it would be wise to set the toe to 0?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely correct.
If I'm not mistaken and those are stock wheels, you should put the stock lugnuts back on....the ones you have on are probably a taper seat and aren't recommended (safe)
Absolutely correct.
If I'm not mistaken and those are stock wheels, you should put the stock lugnuts back on....the ones you have on are probably a taper seat and aren't recommended (safe)
Usually OEM wheels use a ball-shaped lug seat. If that is the case, you shouldn't use "tapered" seat lug nuts. You may want to double check to make sure both the wheels & the lugs have the same type of seat...
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