are these welds good


and

 

welds look good, but what kind of material did you use for the runners?

 

not sure my buddy made it for me he told me it wont crack if it does just take it back to him and he will get me another one.

 

Looks similar to the ssautochrome one that they ripped from full-race.

 

by they do you mean obx?

 

**** i hope not that **** better work good, he always given me good products well hopefully this one will be 2. i will have to find out

 

how would i know if the manifold is cracked? how would it respond on the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mag00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks similar to the ssautochrome one that they ripped from full-race.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't look like a full-race one.

 

i think there robotic welds..

 

probably will crack..the manifold..

 

the welds look too far apart and like heat was removed every "bead". Ideally you want to keep some heat in the material and your beads should be MUCH closer together. Look at full-race mani's or burns stainless (amazing) welds for reference.

not to shabby but that is an ebay manifold.

 

these is another part of the manifold, and would the manifold crack because of the weight of the turbo?

 

if you see the manifold on ebay it a different weld pattern the one i got has more weld on the runners like it has it on the middle unlike the ebay one. well my buddy told me i can return it if it does crack so im guess im cool with that well i just dont know what to do some people around where i live that have done welding say its good but then u guys say its not so i just dont know what i should do

 

run iiiiiiiiiiiiiit!

 

That looks just like the ssautochrome a friend bought.. The first weld pic is the same.

BTW I got to compare the obx and ssautochrome manifolds and they are very different. The obx stuck the turbo WAY out into the front. This was on a d series.

 

Yes, thats an ssautochrome manifold. I've had a chance to have a close look at one and the welding is very nice. However, I didn't see any visible penetration on the other side of any of their welds

 

its not a ss auto chrome. the ss auto do not have the little brace pieces of metal near the head flange. the only company that does this is spark racing. they are quite a bit better than ss auto

 

I agree with the earlier post, it looks like someone was kind of "spot-welding". Melting a puddle, letting completely off the pedal (you can see the "disconnects" at the center of every circle) then moving to the next position and doing it again. I guessed penetration is bad then saw your post. I think there's a good chance it'll crack, but it's JMHO. We need to see the other side of the weld to be more helpful.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kb58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with the earlier post, it looks like someone was kind of "spot-welding". Melting a puddle, letting completely off the pedal (you can see the "disconnects" at the center of every circle) then moving to the next position and doing it again. I guessed penetration is bad then saw your post. I think there's a good chance it'll crack, but it's JMHO. We need to see the other side of the weld to be more helpful.</TD></TR></TABLE> good eye!

 

The spots in the middle of the pool are caused by shutting off the heat and moving the torch. I can almost duplicate the way that looks.

 

i went today to the actual manufacture and he also gave me a better one looks better made than the one i previously had and these are hand made and told me they are tig welded and then the spot welled it for the looks so it could look nice, there was a 300hp teg using the same manifold and has had no problem, well i was planning on making my own bracket to help the manifold from cracking well hopefully it comes out good

 

its all relative. how much $? you usually get what you pay for. If its only around $250 you should go with a DRAG or REV HARD mani. If your paying more than $500 for it you better get ahold of lovefab. At least use something that is proven. I see a lot of people using these SSautocrap manifolds so they can brag about having a "equal length" crome bling but my old POS DRAG works better and will last longer just not look as good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mag00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks similar to the ssautochrome one that they ripped from full-race.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean the one full-race ripped from Kooks? right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98gsrTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not a ss auto chrome. the ss auto do not have the little brace pieces of metal near the head flange. the only company that does this is spark racing. they are quite a bit better than ss auto</TD></TR></TABLE>

i concur. my friend has an SSautochrome (which seems to be fine, dont see why people bag on them sooo much, yes its a nice manifold, but you can buy them cheap). the SSAC does not look like the above pictured manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The spots in the middle of the pool are caused by shutting off the heat and moving the torch. I can almost duplicate the way that looks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup