here is a great idea that might help everyone when bolting their stuff up to weld their manifolds. here is a head plate made up with some patterns and a turbo plate the same way. both plates are 3/4" mild steel. all holes are tapped so there is no need to fight with nuts on the other side. doing it this way keeps the jig modular and all you have to do is make the arm that joins these two plates.

 

nice job bro!

 

where the hell do you find such shiny mild steel??

i've never ever gotten a shipment of mild steel plate that shiny before.
did you polish it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cua0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where the hell do you find such shiny mild steel??

i've never ever gotten a shipment of mild steel plate that shiny before.
did you polish it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its cold rolled.

 

Wanna sell a set?

 

Either that or it might be pickled hot roll. its actually rather common in laser shops since it cuts so well. Normal hot rolled sheet has a nasty mill scale on it that the lasers puke on.

 

how much for a set? what exhaust patterns does the head plate have?

 

those plates look bad ***, can't wait for them to get here.

aaron is the man

 

yeah, cold rolled doesn't have any mill scale on it. nice and flat to bolt head flanges to.

 

Nice man! Thanks for sharing.

How much does a slab of steel like that cost? :S

 

how much does this cut down on warping??? Im assuming you still have to cut the flange faces once you're done just not as much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agtronic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice man! Thanks for sharing.

How much does a slab of steel like that cost? :S</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm wondering the same.. can't imagine its cheap.
good work though

 

Why not make them out of aluminum, since it absorbs heat better? Anyway looks nice man, I bet that was a bitch tapping all those holes.

 

the piece of material for the head plate wasn't that expensive, maybe $40.

aluminum would absorb the heat better, but after continued use, the threads in the holes would eventually fatigue and strip out. i suppose you could go with through holes and put nuts on the bottom, but having them threaded makes life much easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Race Egr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not make them out of aluminum, since it absorbs heat better? Anyway looks nice man, I bet that was a bitch tapping all those holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

price.

 

wow....I thought everyone had something like this. I did a plate like that when I first started making mani's. Tapped the holes, and made it for all types of heads. I should've posted it...lol. I just figured that's how everyone did it, and didn't see it helping anyone...haha.

Well, I can vouch that it works well. I build my manifolds in jigs, and weld all the runners while it's in that jig. Then I transfer it to the head plate to weld the flange joints because the jig gets in my way. Used mine for about two and half years now, and works great.

If you make mani's I can't see operating without this. I made it for multiple heads because I couldn't shell out cash for a bunch of plates. I actually used the front and the back of my plate because of how small it is. I have B and D on the front, then Hseries flipped upside down on the back so the holes didn't interfere with each other.

 

Could you post one of the arms you use to connect the turbo plate to the head plate?

Thanks!

I had something similar to this for the S4 manifolds I made, but it wasn't modular. It was just for those manifolds, and it was all one piece.

 

A bolt together jig is just asking for problems unless everything is doweled.

 

flat head cap screws work just fine. this isn't a cmm checking fixture.

i'll post up some more pics later markku.


Modified by weiRtech at 2:52 PM 10/30/2008

 

Umm, ok.

 

tony u wanna show us what you work with then?

 

Jigs are nothing special, just a bunch of metal welded together, usually scraps.

These plates are great for bolting to when welding. The part that's not going to work good with them is using them as modular jigs. Whatever pieces bolt the two plates together to mimick a jig are going to have slop in them if they're not doweled. To have a good consistent jig it has to be very sturdy and welded together. Any time you have 2 parts that bolt together with no dowels there will be slop. Look at Honda, dowels on the oil pump, trans case, cyl. head, etc. Anything that needs 100% alignment needs to be doweled. If a manifold was jigged on these and then these plates used for another purpose, then the jig reassembled by bolting it together, it will not be 100%. There are many situations where moving a turbo flange just a little can end up having a significant difference in clearance by the time you get out to the end of the compressor housing or something.

Make sense?

 

i didn't know we were building engines here, last i checked it was exhaust manifolds.

but what do i know. i just build them everyday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jigs are nothing special, just a bunch of metal welded together, usually scraps.

These plates are great for bolting to when welding. The part that's not going to work good with them is using them as modular jigs. Whatever pieces bolt the two plates together to mimick a jig are going to have slop in them if they're not doweled. To have a good consistent jig it has to be very sturdy and welded together. Any time you have 2 parts that bolt together with no dowels there will be slop. Look at Honda, dowels on the oil pump, trans case, cyl. head, etc. Anything that needs 100% alignment needs to be doweled. If a manifold was jigged on these and then these plates used for another purpose, then the jig reassembled by bolting it together, it will not be 100%. There are many situations where moving a turbo flange just a little can end up having a significant difference in clearance by the time you get out to the end of the compressor housing or something.

Make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you make a valid point tony, but dowels are overkill for something like this. by drilling the holes in the armature 5/16" in diameter for a 5/16" screw to go through will only allow for maximum .010" play or less. if you use flat head cap screws:

and countersink the hole in the armature to match the taper, it will be self locating every time it is reassembled. keep in mind i'm not drilling these holes on a drill press or with a hand drill. i'm using a mill with a digital read out so i know the holes are accurate.

i've built plenty of injection moulds, check fixtures, dies and other tooling to understand that the best way to locate something is either with a dowel or bushing, but for something like this, a flat head cap screw will work just fine.

this makes sense to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jigs are nothing special, just a bunch of metal welded together, usually scraps.

These plates are great for bolting to when welding. The part that's not going to work good with them is using them as modular jigs. Whatever pieces bolt the two plates together to mimick a jig are going to have slop in them if they're not doweled. To have a good consistent jig it has to be very sturdy and welded together. Any time you have 2 parts that bolt together with no dowels there will be slop. Look at Honda, dowels on the oil pump, trans case, cyl. head, etc. Anything that needs 100% alignment needs to be doweled. If a manifold was jigged on these and then these plates used for another purpose, then the jig reassembled by bolting it together, it will not be 100%. There are many situations where moving a turbo flange just a little can end up having a significant difference in clearance by the time you get out to the end of the compressor housing or something.

Make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Damndest thing, I'm in full agreement with Tony.