Having Traction Bar Problems

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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Default Having Traction Bar Problems

I have a ETD Traction bar, on my DA and I keep having issues with the traction bar bolts backing out. I have innovative solid race motor mounts, vibrations are pretty bad. I have put threadlocker on the bolts and they still come out, it's to the point where I have to check this everyday and my alignment is obviously getting screwed up and it's eaten up my new tires very fast. So my question is if I weld the traction bar to the chassis, will it hold up better and be stronger than using bolts?
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by GEN2 LS
will it hold up better and be stronger than using bolts?
yes, unless the welds crack
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by got wide
yes, unless the welds crack
the guy that welds for me, does top notch work! I just want to make sure it's safe to do, and if anyone has done this before.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 11:00 AM
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Have you tryed retaining compound?

Its made by loctite and the high strength stuff is a pretty permanent fix. You can remove the bolts after by applying a bit of heat to them.

I would try that before welding anything.

Make sure you degrease the threads before you apply anything, both male and female threads.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by hybrid2007
Have you tryed retaining compound?

Its made by loctite and the high strength stuff is a pretty permanent fix. You can remove the bolts after by applying a bit of heat to them.

I would try that before welding anything.

Make sure you degrease the threads before you apply anything, both male and female threads.
no I have never heard of it before, I will try and find some and give it a try.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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try lock washers also. worst comes to worst i would have him just throw a tack weld on each of the bolt heads so they cant back out. that way all you have to do is hit it with an angle grinder to take it back off.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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What about safety wire? If you get a bolt jig, you can drill through the heads of the bolt and safety wire them so they don't vibrate out.

Or may you can use a stud with a hole drilled through along with a castle nut and cotter pin.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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Drill holes all the way through the chassis and back plate it. Try that before you weld it. Welding should be the last resort.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DrSeuss
What about safety wire? If you get a bolt jig, you can drill through the heads of the bolt and safety wire them so they don't vibrate out.

Or may you can use a stud with a hole drilled through along with a castle nut and cotter pin.

I agree with the safety wire method.. welding sounds like a bad plan for something that might need to be removed at some point, even though you could just drop the lower control arm and radius rod together.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 06:04 AM
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grade 8 bolts lock nuts and or lock washers, and you'll be fine.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:09 AM
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a friend of mine, turned me over to this. It utilizes the factory crossmember mounting bolts below the frame. Unlike the ETD traction bar that uses the factory tow hook bolt holes. I may have a buyer for my current traction bar, and instead purchase this bar. Any opinions on the quality of innovatives traction bar?

http://www.robearracing.com/pd_innov...egra_90-93.cfm
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:35 AM
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Maybe I'm alone on this, but I'm wondering why we haven't heard of this happening to anyone else?? I'm thinking there's something else going on.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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yeah i have the same bar and mounts for a year never had that problem or any problem
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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could be ride height related most of these setups really bind the suspension
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