Purchased a prebuilt InLine Pro S2000 and have been taking my time getting it reliable at about 450 RWD HP. Engine overheating issues completely resolved and working on getting proper sized turbo on vehicle - current is Precision 35R that is frankly just too big - need GTX 3076. Anyway point is now that motor is settled and can be trusted to get on throttle, clutch is giving up ghost.

Current spec is ACT Comp Clutch with maybe 10.000 miles. I had been told that there was a danger of crankwalk due to the clutch, TOB and fork design and that a carbon carbon set-up was recommended. Thinking of going with a Tilton 5,5 or 7,25 carbon carbon with lightweight flywheel option and their unique TOB set-up. Is this a good option or will it mess with my synchros/tranny? Also will this minimize crankwalk possibilities? Finally be aware I have a DriveShaft Shop driveshaft/Nissan Z rear end good for 1000HP - is there anything else I should be concerned with in the driveline? Is there a better set-up. Essentially looking for something we install and don't have to mess with anytime soon.

Skilled driver, licensed road racer and certified HPDE/Race instructor so shifting/footwork is at least adequate - no drag racing although I would like to use this sub 30.000 mile car for daily driving and occassional HPDEs.

Complete Build list follows if it matters and people have advice - not trying to boast or any BS seeking input to save me from disaster.

434 Wheel Horsepower / 255 Wheel Torque

Mods:
InlinePro GT35R Turbo kit
Big Precision Front-mount Intercooler
AEM EMS
675cc injectors
Walboro Fuel Pump
3mm head gasket
Titanium valve springs & retainers
InlinePro Oil filter relocation kit
Inline pro BOV
InlinePro 300ZX Z32 R200 rear diff. conversion kit
Replacement stronger driveshaft and axles by Driveshaft shop
ARP Studs 12x1,5 ARP#100-77-08
Competition clutch

HKS (dual) Hi-Power exhaust

Koni Yellows Shocks (set on lower perch setting = 1" drop all around)

Carbon Fiber colormatched, vented Hood (stock hood also included)

Graphite grey powder coated wheels (off 2004-2005 s2000)

Alpine XDA-001 w/HD and XM

Modifry PnP Harness for Alpine
Modifry DCI
Modifry EGT Fix for AEM EMS
Modifry Conv Top Fix
Modifry GoveBox Organizer

Spoon Ti Shift ****
Axial Flow Short Shift Kit

Kics R40 LugLocks

GenTek Front SwayBar

Formula Ikeya Front Upper Adj Arms
Formula Ikeya Rear Upper Adj Arms
Formula Ikeya Rear Toe Arms

Polarg H1 5000k lightbulbs

Was about to go Moton 3 ways or KONI 28s with 800/600s when the damn clutch went out.

 

Seriously nobody has any response good bad indifferent on Tilton CC?? Saw a thread from recently for a guy in Germany with hyper modded HP car and there a lot of responses. Really have some bright guys in here and would like your input

 

any reason you want a carbon vs a ceramic 7.25"?

 

Good question - my thought process was the following:

1. to have a clutch so strong would never have to worry about it even if doing skidpads all day with students or stuck in traffic or if I just wanted to beat the hell out of it.

2. had heard that the combination of the style TOB and fork combined with ACT HD Race clutch were jeopardizing the motor due to inducing crankwalk.

3. ACT clutch has NOT held up well - less than 10.000 miles and not abused.

4. experience has been that no clutch feels like a carbon carbon multidisc - albeit not in a S2000 application.

Educate me on pros and cons of each in your opinion and experience with S2000.

 

Current symptoms are in anything above 3rd gear at 5500 RPM just spins without generating foreward movement. Lower gears and/or lower throttle all is fine, even from dead stop.