ls final drive on b16
ok, so my b16 countershaft and spider gear are all chewed up. a local guy have a set of ls cs and fd (from a single tranny). was wondering if i just placed that, would i see any noticeable improvement in highway rpm drop?
was gonna do ls 5th too but he couldn't find the mainshaft gear.
on a side note, is there any trick/tip of removing the tranny case snap ring off?
i'm thinking of getting new snap ring cuz maybe it's no good. can't get the ring to seat into the cs groove. this is on a different tranny...gsr.
i've tried my b16 case on, and it set into the groove no problem.
thnx
was gonna do ls 5th too but he couldn't find the mainshaft gear.
on a side note, is there any trick/tip of removing the tranny case snap ring off?
i'm thinking of getting new snap ring cuz maybe it's no good. can't get the ring to seat into the cs groove. this is on a different tranny...gsr.
i've tried my b16 case on, and it set into the groove no problem.
thnx
Last edited by WAUKEENEM1; Oct 5, 2014 at 01:05 PM.
Honda Transmission Calculator by ZealAutowerks
Use that ^ to see what the rpm drop would be from the B16 to LS final drive.
https://honda-tech.com/transmission-...orial-2443459/
Use that ^ to get the cases apart and back together.
Use that ^ to see what the rpm drop would be from the B16 to LS final drive.
https://honda-tech.com/transmission-...orial-2443459/
Use that ^ to get the cases apart and back together.
You'll see a decent drop in cruising RPM, but it will affect every other gear as well. Unless you're circle track racing you will hate yourself, but yes the final drive will swap over.
The trick to that snap-ring is to buy a set of lock ring pliers like these:

The trick to getting the ring to seat is pulling up in the countershaft nut with a pry bar, or flip the tranny upside down, pick it up a couple of inches and drop it.
The trick to that snap-ring is to buy a set of lock ring pliers like these:

The trick to getting the ring to seat is pulling up in the countershaft nut with a pry bar, or flip the tranny upside down, pick it up a couple of inches and drop it.
You'll get a few more mph in every gear but you'll get the same rpm drop between shifts... not gonna be a huge difference honestly. At 70 mph in 5th, probably 100-200 rpms
The way I get the snap ring to snap into the bearing is once I get the casing to drop down to about a 1/4" from the other half of the casing, I put four bolts in all corners of the transmission. I hold the snap ring open and tighten the bolts down just enough to put enough pressure on the snap ring to keep it open. Then I pry up on the countershaft nut and it pops into place.
Now getting the casing a1/4" from closing can be tricky. Sometimes I have to shift it while pushing down on the casing to get it to pop down, other times it goes down with ease. From my experience the gsr/itr with the taper diff bearings seem to be easier to close
Now getting the casing a1/4" from closing can be tricky. Sometimes I have to shift it while pushing down on the casing to get it to pop down, other times it goes down with ease. From my experience the gsr/itr with the taper diff bearings seem to be easier to close
i've tried all the methods you guys have mentioned but still no luck. i practiced on my b16 tranny like 3-4 times and every time it snap into place. i even put the b16 case on gsr, and it snap into place easily.
i've also tried the gsr case on the b16 and it does snap into place.
so, i'm thinking it must be the snap ring on the gsr case. gonna order new one and try it. hope that is the problem.
really hoping that he could find the other ls 5th, so i can swap both fd and 5th.
now, just deciding which tranny to put back on my boosted si.
i've also tried the gsr case on the b16 and it does snap into place.
so, i'm thinking it must be the snap ring on the gsr case. gonna order new one and try it. hope that is the problem.
really hoping that he could find the other ls 5th, so i can swap both fd and 5th.
now, just deciding which tranny to put back on my boosted si.
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If its working with one casing and not the other, then you're probably right, you got a bent snap ring and it probably got bent because you overtightened the casing before the snap ring was set. The one snap ring Ireplaced I bent to hell and back trying to get it out of the casing. Putting the new one back in is simple.
Long "booger getter" pliers and just keep twisting it out. The snap ring is so cheap it is not worth the headache trying to fish it out for 10 minutes.
I "THINK" you might need the LS shaft that goes along with the final drive as well. I lost the forum that me and one other guy had a discussion on this topic. The forum got taken down....
The countershaft, that's half the final drive, the other half being the ring gear, yes you need both.
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