K i have been having an issue lately with my charging light staying on at idle. The light will stay on if i rev the engine in neutral but when I am in any gear from 1-5 and accelerating the light will go off until i let off the gas. I have gone through a couple used alternators and im really unsure what the problem is. What could the problem be exactly, i doubt i got 3 or 4 bad alternators so there must be something causing this issue.

Also I have had a weird idle issue since I got my swap installed in my car (1999 B18b1 in a 1998 DX converted to obd1). Basically the car when started from a cold will sometimes start up at 1500rpm and really quickly drop down to around 900rpm even while still cold. Other times the engine will start up at like 1000-1200rpm and do the same thing. Also when the engine is warm and idling the car will idle steady at 700ish but every once in awhile it will stumble and drop a little and then come back up. I am starting to think that the Thermo stat might be the issue as far as startup but I dont think that would cause the problems im having while warm. I have tested the MAP, TPS, Dizzy, cleaned IACV, tested IACV, swapped IACV with another good one, cleaned FITV and screwed back in, changed spark plugs etc. Also i get fairly poor fuel economy (although it is winter now) so im pretty sure im running on the rich side.

 

bump

 

any loose grounds at all

 

Your idle problem sounds EXACTLY like mine! I'm running a JDM B18B in a 97 Sol converted to OBDI too, and that is EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY what mine does! I've done most everything you have done too and I've been told that I have a bad O2 sensor that is making the car run rich and then lean and then rich (that's why the idle goes up and down and up and down) and it only does it when it's cold. When it's warm, the idle holds at 750-800 rpm and every once in a while it drops to like 350-400 and then back up to normal. Yeah, I get my O2 sensor in in a few days and when I change it I'll test the car and let you know if that's the problem. Also you can follow my drama on Tremek here:

http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17701
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17670
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17690
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17682
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17570
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17224

HAHA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100K Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your idle problem sounds EXACTLY like mine! I'm running a JDM B18B in a 97 Sol converted to OBDI too, and that is EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY what mine does! I've done most everything you have done too and I've been told that I have a bad O2 sensor that is making the car run rich and then lean and then rich (that's why the idle goes up and down and up and down) and it only does it when it's cold. When it's warm, the idle holds at 750-800 rpm and every once in a while it drops to like 350-400 and then back up to normal. Yeah, I get my O2 sensor in in a few days and when I change it I'll test the car and let you know if that's the problem. Also you can follow my drama on Tremek here:

http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17701
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17670
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17690
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17682
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17570
http://www.tremek.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17224

HAHA </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is the thing, I have swapped O2 sensors and it didnt change anything. The one problem that did stand out was the O2 sensor signal was not swinging up and down like it is suppose to. No one could tell me why this is happening or whats causing it so I dont have anything to really check. If a new o2 fixes your problem I will get a brand new o2 and hopefully that works. Do you have a conversion harness or what? It may be something in the wiring that is causing the problem but really i couldnt see why if the wires were crossed it wouldnt throw a code.

 

Yeah, I have a 4-1 header and so I'm sure over the last year that the O2 has taken a beating. I don't have anything special as far as the way the O2 sensor is wired but I'll let you know when I get it if it fixes it.

 

I also have the same idle problem!! Did a new o2 sensor fix your problem??

 

I get my O2 sensor in tomorrow, I'll let you know how it works out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100K Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get my O2 sensor in tomorrow, I'll let you know how it works out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think its the O2 sensor at all because the up and down idle happens when the engine is cold/warming up. When this is happening the O2 sensor is not "active" in a sense and is running in open loop off of a pre-programmed thing on the ECU. Once the engine is warmedu p is when the car goes into closed loop and the O2 sensor comes into play.

 

Well if your car is OBDII I could be wrong on this. My car is OBDI and my new O2 sensor fixed my problem. It was kicking code 43 and the new sensor fixed it.

http://www.tremek.com/forum/sh...55166

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 100K Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if your car is OBDII I could be wrong on this. My car is OBDI and my new O2 sensor fixed my problem. It was kicking code 43 and the new sensor fixed it.

http://www.tremek.com/forum/sh...55166</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car is OBD2 but its running OBD1, there is no difference though both have open loop/closed loop as do all cars. Good to see your O2 sensor fixed the problem I just hope it stays that way. When i put in a different O2 sensor the car did run better but it didnt last even an hour.

 

So replacing your front O2 (mine had only one O2 near the engine) fixed your wierd idle fluxuation? Cool, how much are they new? I might just get one from a Junkyard.