timing belt issue
im having a problem lineing up the timing on my ls vtec, the cams are lined up perfectly but the crank seems to be a bit off... this isnt my first big rodeo either lol, ive done plenty of others d and b series.
setup ls block
b16 head
gsr water pump
gsr timing belt
i had the block resurfaced before assembly, i dont kno for sure if the head was or how many times it was, maybe thats my issue?
heres a pic to show you what im dealing with
setup ls block
b16 head
gsr water pump
gsr timing belt
i had the block resurfaced before assembly, i dont kno for sure if the head was or how many times it was, maybe thats my issue?
heres a pic to show you what im dealing with
search for the degrees? care to explain a little more? are you saying i have to put a degree wheel on my engine? ive seen them before but never used one
thanks
john
thanks
john
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thanks
john

The rule of thumb is, and it's been covered a few times, is for every .040" thou (1mm) removed, you advance your cam gears 1 CAM degree (this translates to 2 crank degrees for ignition timing correction). So if you remove .030" from the head and then use a 2 layer headgasket, it equals .040" total. Same goes for decking etc, you just add up the total amount removed and go from there. If you only remove .020" total, it is corrected by 1/2 a cam degree.
Hmm from what I heard cam gear adjustments are only needed for cam degreeing/adjustments on a dyno.
Last edited by mouab18c1; Feb 21, 2011 at 08:34 PM.
i really dont know how much the head has been milled. instead of running a thinner headgasket could i degree the cams more than what you are saying i have a golden eagle three layer. if so to do this correctly i would have to use a degree wheel?
thanks
john
thanks
john
a degree wheel has nothing to do with this. if the block was milled and the head has ever been off before this time, it is a safe bet to assume 20 thou off. so set the 1/2 degree on the cams and see where that puts you.
if the machine shop had the head this time when they had your block, it is a very safe assumption they did. if it was just some general shop that doesn't think in terms of Honda it is standard procedure to cut the head. the only way to check it is to go to northern tools or harbor freight and grab a cheap caliper. measure the thickness of the head.
if the machine shop had the head this time when they had your block, it is a very safe assumption they did. if it was just some general shop that doesn't think in terms of Honda it is standard procedure to cut the head. the only way to check it is to go to northern tools or harbor freight and grab a cheap caliper. measure the thickness of the head.
i did the best to square the crank up, left to right is pretty much prefect, up and down i did the best i could because the engine is in the car and the body got it the way
Yup. Something was definitely taken down (block or head) enough to change where everything lines up. I just wanted you to verify that the mark you were seeing on the crank pulley wasn't just the outer portion of the pulley rotating on the dampening material, which is quite common. This is also why you should always time the engine with the crank cog and not the pulley.
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