reusing head bolts and head gasket surface questions
So I rebuilt my motor a while ago. When it came to scraping off the old head gasket, it was baked into the block and head pretty good (paper gasket). So I scraped it all up with a razor blade...but got a decent amount of nicks all over the surfaces of the head and block. I also re-used the head bolts.
Now, I'm about to turbo the car again and I'm scared of it blowing the head gasket. I've been thinking of getting a set of arp studs, and a metal OEM gasket and replacing it before putting the turbo on. If I do decide to do this, what should I do to the surfaces to fix them? The head I can have machined...but what about the block? I've been thinking of a flat file, since that should take out the nicks and leave the surface flat.
Now, this motor has been running for a 1000 miles or two, and it's seen probably about 50-100 miles of boost just recently. So maybe it will hold? I'm fearing that the stock head bolts won't hold it together that long though. So my question is, think I should replace the head gasket and studs? And what method should I use to clean up (and flatten) the block surface?
Thanks for reading, -Sean
Now, I'm about to turbo the car again and I'm scared of it blowing the head gasket. I've been thinking of getting a set of arp studs, and a metal OEM gasket and replacing it before putting the turbo on. If I do decide to do this, what should I do to the surfaces to fix them? The head I can have machined...but what about the block? I've been thinking of a flat file, since that should take out the nicks and leave the surface flat.
Now, this motor has been running for a 1000 miles or two, and it's seen probably about 50-100 miles of boost just recently. So maybe it will hold? I'm fearing that the stock head bolts won't hold it together that long though. So my question is, think I should replace the head gasket and studs? And what method should I use to clean up (and flatten) the block surface?
Thanks for reading, -Sean
Nah I don't think I'd do anything of the sort. Perhaps you could just spray some copper gasket on the new head gasket? The head studs are a good idea though.
Take it to a machine shop, they can clean off the surfaces of both the block and the head easily.
That way you get a much better matting surface, and less worries
That way you get a much better matting surface, and less worries
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimoneX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah I don't think I'd do anything of the sort. Perhaps you could just spray some copper gasket on the new head gasket? The head studs are a good idea though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So everyone is saying replace it eh.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to a machine shop, they can clean off the surfaces of both the block and the head easily.
That way you get a much better matting surface, and less worries </TD></TR></TABLE>
DEFINITELY not getting block machined, no way in hell I'm going to take it out just to take it to a machine shop, lol. That's why I was thinking of the file.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to a machine shop, they can clean off the surfaces of both the block and the head easily.
That way you get a much better matting surface, and less worries </TD></TR></TABLE>
DEFINITELY not getting block machined, no way in hell I'm going to take it out just to take it to a machine shop, lol. That's why I was thinking of the file.
have the head checked..
depending on how off the head is, (the head will normally warp before the block) you may need to get the shaved.
i say pulled the head of, have it milled (so you know it is dead straight)
get a set of arp headstuds (i have a set of d16z6 arps, pm me if you need them)
clean the block off good with brake cleaner and put everything back together.
this way you know everything is good, you wont have to worry about uping the boost ing blowing a HG.
i have used copper spray and didnt notice a difference either way.
also where did you get a paper HG????
depending on how off the head is, (the head will normally warp before the block) you may need to get the shaved.
i say pulled the head of, have it milled (so you know it is dead straight)
get a set of arp headstuds (i have a set of d16z6 arps, pm me if you need them)
clean the block off good with brake cleaner and put everything back together.
this way you know everything is good, you wont have to worry about uping the boost ing blowing a HG.
i have used copper spray and didnt notice a difference either way.
also where did you get a paper HG????
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I got a rebuild kit, and I think it's actually metal now that I think about it. I'm more worried about the head bolts not being able to hold it down than the gasket itself leaking. Yea, if I do decide to redo it, I'd definitely get the head machined, then as for the block I guess I'd just file it to get the nicks out.
I do wonder how long it'll last as it is though
I do wonder how long it'll last as it is though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DEFINITELY not getting block machined, no way in hell I'm going to take it out just to take it to a machine shop, lol. That's why I was thinking of the file.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definetly not try and file it yourself. There is no way for you to know if you kept it even all across the block. And if its not, chances are your headgasket is going to leak.
DEFINITELY not getting block machined, no way in hell I'm going to take it out just to take it to a machine shop, lol. That's why I was thinking of the file.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would definetly not try and file it yourself. There is no way for you to know if you kept it even all across the block. And if its not, chances are your headgasket is going to leak.
I was thinking of doing a diagonal criss cross pattern. But anyways, I decided to run it as it is, and keep arp studs and a gasket in the garage, ready to go just in case.
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