just put in a act dual friction clutch in a d16 y8. what is the proper break in time and how should i break it in?

 

Drive like a grocery getting bitch for 500 miles or so, then do what you want. That's what I did, haven't had a problem in over 20,000 miles.

 

500 did it for my ACT xtreme pressure plate and street/drag clutch disc. Just no shifts over 3000rpm and half throttle at the most. Just don't push it and you should be alright .

 

Well remember that the clutch is either disengaged, slipping, or engaged. Once it is engaged, it could care less what RPM it's turning at. For all it knows, 1000 RPM is the same as 10,000 RPM as long as the flywheel and disc are turning at the same speed. The only thing you have to baby is the slippage. Don't drag the clutch on shifts or launches. Let the revs drop when you put in in the next gear. If you have enough power to slip the clutch with the pedal out, then lay off, but otherwise, floor away.

 

all these info...

that 500mile rule is to be on the safe side. a good 200 mile(stop and go) traffic will do the job.

i can break it in for you in a few hours. basically, you want to engage and disengage the clutch to get the friction pads to seat flushly on the fristion surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate. anyhow do what you must.

**remember, when you upgrade to puck clutches, they don't require break-ins.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all these info...

that 500mile rule is to be on the safe side. a good 200 mile(stop and go) traffic will do the job.

i can break it in for you in a few hours. basically, you want to engage and disengage the clutch to get the friction pads to seat flushly on the fristion surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate. anyhow do what you must.

**remember, when you upgrade to puck clutches, they don't require break-ins.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true. Just don't sit in your driveway idling and putting the clutch in and out . Just take an hour a day and go cruising in the city.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

**remember, when you upgrade to puck clutches, they don't require break-ins.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how certain are you of this?? i just installed a new ACT hd pressure plate and 6 puck non sprung disc and i was told i need to put 500 miles on it. Got 100 city miles in two days and don't really want to put another 400 on, that's why im asking how certain you are.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eGeeHaTcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how certain are you of this?? i just installed a new ACT hd pressure plate and 6 puck non sprung disc and i was told i need to put 500 miles on it. Got 100 city miles in two days and don't really want to put another 400 on, that's why im asking how certain you are.</TD></TR></TABLE> i was told it's just ACT clutches that need the break in period...everything else you just get on it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eGeeHaTcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how certain are you of this?? i just installed a new ACT hd pressure plate and 6 puck non sprung disc and i was told i need to put 500 miles on it. Got 100 city miles in two days and don't really want to put another 400 on, that's why im asking how certain you are.</TD></TR></TABLE>sorry for the late reply... but yes, i am very certain.

 

why is a puk disk any different thean a street disk, when it comes to breaking it in?? i just put a Clutch Specialties clutch in mine and it has 80 miles on it. and i really dont want to wait another 420! urgghh. can you go into detail why the puks dont need to be broke in. besides just saying that they dont.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dannydos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i was told it's just ACT clutches that need the break in period...everything else you just get on it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually the puck disc just require a few hard slips and there ready to go. the disc might require some milage but i dont know.

 

the materials of the puck cluthes are very harsh(varies from brand to brand, although still very harsh). they will eat your pressure plate and flywheel.

think logically...
if you have a race car, are you going to put 500 miles on it just to use the damn clutch... the answer is no.

 

i just got a new clutch in my teg and drove it for the first time today and the shifts are real strong but real bumpy, even if i let off the clutch real slow and give it a little bit of gas...is that normal for a new clutch or do i need to do some adjusting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by str8 rippin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can baby it like all the girls or just drive the **** outta it like a man, one way or another its gonna work the same. think about it, how do full race cars brake there clutchs in? 8g revs on the dyno then the same down the track. </TD></TR></TABLE>


that's the worst statement ever

a race car is a little different than a honda with a couple mods adding maybe 10whp, they have more power therefor have a clutch that can hold more power and is made completely different than a street clutch which you DO need to go easy on if you want it to work right. But yea, 200 city miles and you should be good to go. Can't go wrong with 500 miles either especially if it's mixed city/highway. I broke mine in in one weekend of delivering pizzas, was pretty convenient to break it in and get paid at once.

 

lol i just swapped a gsr in to my ls with an exeedy organic and xact streetlite flywheel.Im also breaking it in by delivering pizzas and getting paid

 

You can rev wherever you want, all your doing is seating the clutch to the flywheel

I don't see a probplem with high revs and a new clutch, it seats in quicker, just shift slow and let it grab before your back on the gas.

You don't want to hammer back on the gas as soon as your shifting or else you will burn up the disc before it gets a chance to seat and grab properly.

higher revs and shift back and forth from third to fourth or even fourth to fifth a couple of times whicle costing helps speed up the break in.


performance clutches beyond street levels rely more on pressure plate force and heat then material to grab which is why they kill flywheels and pressure plates.

some are aluminum pucks i believe.

My centerforce dual friction required 500 miles

 

All clutches need breakin in, weather puk r not. Breakin in is to align the clutch disc to the flywheel for smooth engagement and low slippin.

 

Old thread man. The people you're responding to have been long gone.

 

500 is what I normally do, but I found that in that 500 you got to beat it a little.