I’d like to get a Hondata standalone later this Spring and tune it, but first I have a few questions:

Currently I have a ‘96 Integra GS-R (OBDII) with a Drag3 (T3/4) turbo setup and dropped compression to w/ 9:1 JE Pistons and Eagle rods, I also just purchased (not installed) Skunk2 cam gears. I already have a decent Ignition setup, I think all I need is Fuel and Engine management.
If you care you can read more about my setup here: http://sh4rky.home.attbi.com/about/car_mods.html
I ran at the track (my first time) with high 13s - using stock (4 year old) tires, 8psi of boost, STOCK ignition and crappy fuel setup (inline pump and FMU), and of course - UNTUNED!

To get to the point, my main problem is that I want to get a Hondata system soon.
My goal is to have a street driven, around 300 WHP, mid-to-low 12sec car, with 10–15psi of boost and with a good fuel economy.
Is that possible with my setup, or am I asking for too much?

I understand that the things I need to get in order to successfully fulfill my goal are:

Hondata s200 w/ boost option
OBD1 ECU (Such as P28 or P72 – which one is best?)
OBD2 -to- OBD1 Harness
550cc Injectors (DSM ones or maybe RC?)
Walbro 255L Intank Pump (or other?)
Maybe a Fuel Rail (or is it not necessary?)

Am I missing anything? Anything you can recommend? Any other parts, upgrades, or service I should do on my car before I come to tune? Point me to the right direction please….

Also, how much does the tuning costs? I was thinking of going to Payn Tech over in Michigan, but it's a 6 hour drive from Chicago, Illinois
Any other Hondata tuners by Chicagoland area?


Thanks,
Sharky


[Modified by Sh4rky, 3:02 AM 3/13/2003]

 

Post this in the Forced Induction section they will take care of you.

 

I know what you mean about the drive to Payn. I'm in west MI and not relishing the drive to Detroit. They're supposed to be really good though. I traded e-mails with the man himself...he seemed pleasant and knowledgable. The drive will be worth it if it's to someone more experienced IMO. Are you on stock sleeves? If so I'd consider sleeving before I went for 300whp.

 

I am a hondata tuner. All you need for your hp goal is 550cc injectors, walboro 255lph fuel pump, hondata s200, obd-2 to obd-1 converter harness. This system can support around 350whp maxed out.

I prefer the p28 ecu's over the p72 because they are usually cheaper.

If you running the Drag kit, you should very easily be able to see 300whp around 10psi assuming you have at least a 3" exhaust. I recently tuned a type r running a max-rev kit with hondata and made 295whp, 215ft-lbs on 8psi. I also made 250whp and 198ft-lbs of torque on a gsr block with a custom turbo kit at 5.5psi, tuned via hondata.

Check out my site in my sig for the dyno graphs, and vids. I should have them up tonight around 8pm.

I charge 45 an hour for street wideband tuning, and the same for dyno time + dyno costs. It usually averages out to around 200-300 at most for a complete tune after dyno charge is figured in. I am the cheapest you'll find hondata tuning since i am free lance and dont own a shop i can charge less.


[Modified by boosted hybrid, 4:29 PM 3/13/2003]

 

TimoneX:
Yes, I'm running stock sleeves, but I though it was okay for around 300whp or a little more.

boosted hybrid:
Very interesting. Checked out your site, but I guess you haven't uploaded the stuff yet. Let me know when u do.
Are the OBD1 ECUs same for both auto and manual trannies? Or, do you have to look specifically for a manual OBD1 ECU?


Sharky

 

Probably, I just err on the side of caustion. I'd hate to see a sleeve break and damage those beautiful JE pistons or worse. You should check w/ the FI guys on this, but I don't think I'd go 15psi on stock sleeves even w/ forged pistons and stock bore.

I don't think a fuel rail is necessary, just the injectors.

 

The stuff will be up later on this afternoon. I was having problems shrinking the video files.

Stock sleeves are fine for 500+whp. Dont buy the hype that you NEED sleeves. There are a few members here making 500whp with just piston/rods. I have personally pushed stock block gsr to around 400whp on race gas (stock pistons, rods, sleeves). If your tuning is on point (ie no detonation) then you wont have any reason to crack a sleeve.

When you are having hondata socket the ecu, it doenst matter if its automatic or manual. I am using an automatic p28 that i socketed with my hondata system, zero problems with it.


[Modified by boosted hybrid, 10:52 AM 3/14/2003]

 

Oh hype eh...boy have I got a pic for you... It's a b16a1 block that the guy put a turbo kit on. One sleeve cracked and another absolutely shattered. This was w/ 12psi of boost. One piston disintegrated, 2 bent rods, 4 shattered valves, combustion chamber damage, 3 shattered valve guides, 1 retainer...etc. Now even allowing for the fact that he might have been a moron(he is kinda a moron) he never touched the bottom end...it's all stock, which means the pistons heated up enough to expand and destroy 2 sleeves from 12psi of boost. I don't think this setup was even producing 300whp let alone 500whp and it did have proper fuel...it was running rich. The stock sleeves just aren't all that strong when you start boosting. I realize our hero here has done this alot smarter and has forged pistons(more clearance) and forged rods, but I don't think sleeves are really overkill for 15psi of reliable boost.

 

Sounds like timing was an issue, not fuel. You can have a perfect air/fuel in boost and still have to much timing. Usually timing is what gernades an engine in most cases, as with an FMU. I have been through many engine combinations, and build-ups. Bang for the buck a stock block gsr engine can take alot of abuse, and make power. Sleeving is always going to be a better option that not sleeving, but realistically not everyone has the money to sleeve. High 10's are obtainable on a stock block gsr swap, with a turbo in a eg hatch. Inline pro has been doing for three years now.