OBD2b - OBD1 Conversion & Tach doesn't work
I put a Hondata s300 in my 2001 GSR (installed in an OBD1 P28). Everything started up fine, but the tach did not work. The car was running, but the tach did not work at all. I pulled the Hondata unit out, threw in a stock OBD1 P72 and the same result occurred.
When the S300 was in the car, all the datalogging was working. RPM, Vac, etc. all were working on the display in the laptop. The gauge in my cluster just sat on 0. All other gauges worked: Temp, Fuel, Speedo. The tach just sat on 0. Pulled everything out, and put the stock OBD2b ECU back in, and everything worked fine.
The GS-R is SC'd and running the JRSC hack and FMU. It started throwing the code for the Atmospheric sensor. I picked up a Hondata S300 and was going to put the unit in and run a stock P72 map in it (still running the JRSC hack) until I can get the cash to take it to the tuner. Now, seems like I have other issues.
Any suggestions?!
When the S300 was in the car, all the datalogging was working. RPM, Vac, etc. all were working on the display in the laptop. The gauge in my cluster just sat on 0. All other gauges worked: Temp, Fuel, Speedo. The tach just sat on 0. Pulled everything out, and put the stock OBD2b ECU back in, and everything worked fine.
The GS-R is SC'd and running the JRSC hack and FMU. It started throwing the code for the Atmospheric sensor. I picked up a Hondata S300 and was going to put the unit in and run a stock P72 map in it (still running the JRSC hack) until I can get the cash to take it to the tuner. Now, seems like I have other issues.
Any suggestions?!
Many people that copy those harnesses and ***** them out don't remember to jump the tach wire. OBD2b harnesses need the OBD2b A19 wire jumpered with the OBD2b B13.....all going to OBD1 A21.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many people that copy those harnesses and ***** them out don't remember to jump the tach wire. OBD2b harnesses need the OBD2b A19 wire jumpered with the OBD2b B13.....all going to OBD1 A21.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Think you're right....looks like that jumped pin that's a combination of wires from OBD2b B13 and OBD1 A21 is actually pinned into OBD2b A18, not 19. I wonder if it's simple enough that A18 & A19 are switched?
I can't figure out how to get these pins out of the plug...it's a one piece plug
Think you're right....looks like that jumped pin that's a combination of wires from OBD2b B13 and OBD1 A21 is actually pinned into OBD2b A18, not 19. I wonder if it's simple enough that A18 & A19 are switched?
I can't figure out how to get these pins out of the plug...it's a one piece plug
if i used an obd2 engine harness with obd1 body harness would i have this problem??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many people that copy those harnesses and ***** them out don't remember to jump the tach wire. OBD2b harnesses need the OBD2b A19 wire jumpered with the OBD2b B13.....all going to OBD1 A21.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if so how could i fix it, as of now my speedo jumps a little bit when i hit the gas and my tach does not work at all!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many people that copy those harnesses and ***** them out don't remember to jump the tach wire. OBD2b harnesses need the OBD2b A19 wire jumpered with the OBD2b B13.....all going to OBD1 A21.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if so how could i fix it, as of now my speedo jumps a little bit when i hit the gas and my tach does not work at all!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd try another conversion harness. I see bad ones all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Tried that, Tony....any other ideas?
Tried that, Tony....any other ideas?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many people that copy those harnesses and ***** them out don't remember to jump the tach wire. OBD2b harnesses need the OBD2b A19 wire jumpered with the OBD2b B13.....all going to OBD1 A21.</TD></TR></TABLE>
+2 the issue is in the conversion harness. Contact who ever you purchased it from.
+2 the issue is in the conversion harness. Contact who ever you purchased it from.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
+2 the issue is in the conversion harness. Contact who ever you purchased it from.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well...you guys are both wrong. Contacted the manufacturer and it's not in the harness. The FIX can be done in the harness....the issue is something with the tachometer electronics. For people's future reference:

Modified by C_Rock77 at 5:48 PM 4/17/2008
+2 the issue is in the conversion harness. Contact who ever you purchased it from.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well...you guys are both wrong. Contacted the manufacturer and it's not in the harness. The FIX can be done in the harness....the issue is something with the tachometer electronics. For people's future reference:

Modified by C_Rock77 at 5:48 PM 4/17/2008
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,990
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_Rock77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well...you guys are both wrong. Contacted the manufacturer and it's not in the harness. The FIX can be done in the harness....the issue is something with the tachometer electronics. For people's future reference:

Modified by C_Rock77 at 5:48 PM 4/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
can anyone verify the trick?
Well...you guys are both wrong. Contacted the manufacturer and it's not in the harness. The FIX can be done in the harness....the issue is something with the tachometer electronics. For people's future reference:

Modified by C_Rock77 at 5:48 PM 4/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
can anyone verify the trick?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM turbo DC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
can anyone verify the trick?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the harness is not built properly....many cheapo egay copiers do this....then this fix can be used to get the tach to work properly.
can anyone verify the trick?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the harness is not built properly....many cheapo egay copiers do this....then this fix can be used to get the tach to work properly.
476 whp / 323 tq @ 17 PSI
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,990
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If the harness is not built properly....many cheapo egay copiers do this....then this fix can be used to get the tach to work properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the weird thing in my situation, my tach didnt work when i ran the greddy blue box with the conversion harness. When i removed the greddy blue box, the tach worked with the same conversion harness. Now I have my ECU chipped and again, the tach is not working
It seems that the resistor trick might make sense in my situation but when i double checked where the resistor is tapping into, A25 is a 12volt source so i dont want to fry the A21 input. Thats why i wanted some verification, thanks.
If the harness is not built properly....many cheapo egay copiers do this....then this fix can be used to get the tach to work properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heres the weird thing in my situation, my tach didnt work when i ran the greddy blue box with the conversion harness. When i removed the greddy blue box, the tach worked with the same conversion harness. Now I have my ECU chipped and again, the tach is not working

It seems that the resistor trick might make sense in my situation but when i double checked where the resistor is tapping into, A25 is a 12volt source so i dont want to fry the A21 input. Thats why i wanted some verification, thanks.
Shouldn't a good conversion harness already have this resistor wired in? This tach problem is apparent with EVERY OBD2b to OBD1 conversion so it doesnt make sense that it would fall short on this function.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_Rock77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well...you guys are both wrong. Contacted the manufacturer and it's not in the harness. The FIX can be done in the harness....the issue is something with the tachometer electronics. For people's future reference:

Modified by C_Rock77 at 5:48 PM 4/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
can anyone verify the trick?
Well...you guys are both wrong. Contacted the manufacturer and it's not in the harness. The FIX can be done in the harness....the issue is something with the tachometer electronics. For people's future reference:

Modified by C_Rock77 at 5:48 PM 4/17/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
can anyone verify the trick?
Can you take a pic of how you wired in your resistor for me please? I also put a 1k resister on A21 and A25 and my now tach moves but not past 1500. I think it may be because the A21 pin (ICM output) is split to both A19 (tach output) and B13 (ICM output). And now there is a resistor feeding 12v power to both the tach and ICM outputs.
Do some tachs just require more "juice" than others?
Maybe the output is enough to drive the ignitor but not enough to drive the cluster?
Maybe some OBD1 ECUs have a weaker output?
We'll get this figured out!
Maybe the output is enough to drive the ignitor but not enough to drive the cluster?
Maybe some OBD1 ECUs have a weaker output?
We'll get this figured out!
Can you take a pic of how you wired in your resistor for me please? I also put a 1k resister on A21 and A25 and my now tach moves but not past 1500. I think it may be because the A21 pin (ICM output) is split to both A19 (tach output) and B13 (ICM output). And now there is a resistor feeding 12v power to both the tach and ICM outputs.
Thanks Jason, I replied to your PM. With the resistor the idle is rougher than without the resistor. The ECU (Neptune) has always registered the rpm correctly. With the resistor the tach matches the ECU rpm. However when rev'd past 1500 the tach goes dead. Very strange.
What are your thoughts on this resistor "fix"? Is it way out in left field or does it sound logical?
What are your thoughts on this resistor "fix"? Is it way out in left field or does it sound logical?
I was womdering, can you do this resistor fix to a p72 obd2a ecu? Becuz the wires A21 and A25 from the obd2b ecu would be A11 and A20 on the p72 obd2a ecu. Should work right?
I got a obd2b (00' gsr) motor in my obd2a (96 gsr) shell. The engine harness for obd2b doesnt have the blue wire on the plug at the distributor and the harness from the car have the blue wire, which is for the rpm/tachometer. So my rpm doesnt work.
I got a obd2b (00' gsr) motor in my obd2a (96 gsr) shell. The engine harness for obd2b doesnt have the blue wire on the plug at the distributor and the harness from the car have the blue wire, which is for the rpm/tachometer. So my rpm doesnt work.
I too have this problem with my tach not working...it works fine up until about 6000 rpms and then it just dies out zero...can anyone post a pic of how they wired the resistor in the harness? (if I understand correctly)..
i have similar problem with tach. i have made auto to manual swapin my "00 d16y8 civic. it use obd2b harness, but after swap i use obd2b to obd2a jumper and obd2a ecu. and tach doesn't work....
Montis i did the samething and my rpm dont work i have a obd2 jump harness with a p28 it work fine on others car but mine it driving me crazy



