ls-vtec help
ok i realize thatthis topic has been discussed many a tine in honda tech however i am still confused i just got all the main parts to make it work block head tranny ecu harness axles mounts linkage but now i need to know what to do to keep the ting from blowing up couse little frags of honda are not a good thing when they come out of the back of your car.
i know i need
arp head studs
micro polish crank shaft
gsr ctr itr oil pump and water pump
run vtec
things iv been told are a good idea
billet or forged rods or shot peen the stock ones
toda timing belt for insurence
also i want to build this motor right i want high revs with long life expectancy im willing to spend the money to do it right so let me know.
im also curries to know if im droping this motor into a 94 civic coupe dx what throttle cable should i use.
one more thing i wnt to get a chiped ls-vtec ecu and i cant decide between skunk2 mugen or jun i heard that the jun one ha a realy hard vtec hit and that excits me.
thanks for any advice you can contribute
i know i need
arp head studs
micro polish crank shaft
gsr ctr itr oil pump and water pump
run vtec
things iv been told are a good idea
billet or forged rods or shot peen the stock ones
toda timing belt for insurence
also i want to build this motor right i want high revs with long life expectancy im willing to spend the money to do it right so let me know.
im also curries to know if im droping this motor into a 94 civic coupe dx what throttle cable should i use.
one more thing i wnt to get a chiped ls-vtec ecu and i cant decide between skunk2 mugen or jun i heard that the jun one ha a realy hard vtec hit and that excits me.
thanks for any advice you can contribute
sounds pretty much like you got everything. i would just use your stock throttle cable, just rig something up. make sure you put everything together right.
ls block: honed(didnt need bored any), decked, hot-tanked
ls rods: magnafluxed, reconditioned
ARP rod bolts: installed by machine shop
pr3 pistons: deburred
ACL bearings: std, brand new, thrust washers included
OEM head gasket: only using 2-layers
b16a head: drilled and tapped by machine shop, checked for warpage
b16 water pump: new
gsr oil pump: new
gsr timing belt: new
Hastings rings: new, std. bore
GSR ARP head stud kit.
ls Crank: micro polished(didnt need turned)
include all of these. dont cut corners. and if you are going to use different parts, only ugrade. dont get anything cheaper. also the ARP rod bolt kit is a little bit lore important than the head stud kit. i dont think you know what you are getting into. theres is alot of interchangabilty of the parts associated with lsvtecs. it can get very confusing. ive been over the stuff 23058thousand times and i still get screwed up as i am assembling the engine. just make sure you know everything you need before you put any cash down.
ls rods: magnafluxed, reconditioned
ARP rod bolts: installed by machine shop
pr3 pistons: deburred
ACL bearings: std, brand new, thrust washers included
OEM head gasket: only using 2-layers
b16a head: drilled and tapped by machine shop, checked for warpage
b16 water pump: new
gsr oil pump: new
gsr timing belt: new
Hastings rings: new, std. bore
GSR ARP head stud kit.
ls Crank: micro polished(didnt need turned)
include all of these. dont cut corners. and if you are going to use different parts, only ugrade. dont get anything cheaper. also the ARP rod bolt kit is a little bit lore important than the head stud kit. i dont think you know what you are getting into. theres is alot of interchangabilty of the parts associated with lsvtecs. it can get very confusing. ive been over the stuff 23058thousand times and i still get screwed up as i am assembling the engine. just make sure you know everything you need before you put any cash down.
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