I'm talking about spraying 200 shot or possibly more. Now everyone says nitrous loves high compression. I can understand that reasoning with 100 shot or less.

But what about when were talking say 250 shot? The linear expansion of the n2o is going to abosulte skyrocket my cylinder pressures at low RPM's.

So, as of now I've got 9.6:1 going on, I was going turbo before.

Should I keep the 9.6:1 or go to 11.5:1? Any thoughts?

 

you should keep the 9.6:1 if you are going to use nitrous or turbo. also with a 250 shot of nitrous you shoud upgrade your piston rings or else your just going to melt them and have to do it later and possibly have to fix sleeves.

 

Running high compression with big time nitrous is possible, it just makes the tuning edge very sharp. Ignition timing becomes really critical to making sure cylinder pressure doesn't begin to reach meaningful levels until ATDC, and I do mean REALLY critical. A slight mistake in timing and you'll hole a piston or kill the rings in no time. The high level of n20 just accelerates the burn rate so much that it takes virtually no time at all to begin building pressure.

So if you want to run it, and can get a piston in that cr with enough dome strength to take the cylinder pressure, you'll just need to be damn sure about ignition timing. A standalone would be a really good idea with such a setup, as it'll allow you much greater control over ignition timing vs. nitrous injection and RPM.

 

Well I think I am going to keep the 9.6:1 for the easier tuning sake. In 6 months I'm rebuilding the engine and maybe then I'll go to 12:1 or something. By then I should be at least more knowledgeble about tuning than I am now.

 

Exactly For nitrous I would just build it to be around 10.0-10.5:1... It will make the tuning way easier and you'll be able to squeeze more.... Tuning is everything

 

Also you are planning on sleeving the motor right. Why do you wanna run so much nitrous????.... I guess you have to do it anyway if you're running forged pistons... Latez

 

Go with 9.6 and use a progressive controller with the NOS to avoid those excessive immediate cylinder pressure spikes.

 

If you are going that high of a shot (pretty much able to stick your pinky thru the jet), I would definitely get the most advanced system for it, such as Venom

 

poison IS DA MAN!!!

 

Here is my thoughts:Sleeved block(of course) 10.5:1 cr forged pistons, custom made w/ ring pack lower down the piston(talk to piston manufacturer for info on rings), gas trapping design. With a hondata or similar system you could go up to 12.5 cr. Although, combustion chamber polishing would be nessesary to combat detonation. Use a good nitrous controller, too.

 

Well of course the block is sleeved. I've also got AEM EMS. Might as well just post my setup:

H22a1 block
iron sleeves
90mm Endyn/Wiseco rollerwave pistons thermal and anti-friction coated
9:6:1 compression
Pauter Chromoly Steel Rods
Knifed-Crank
90mm head gasket (stock thickness)
all new oem honda bearings
aluminum crank pulley
lightened flywheel 13.5lbs
ACT Xtreme Pressure Plate w/ 6 puck ACT Disc
Brand new water pump
Prodrive Oil pump with Balance shaft removed
Everything completely balanced

Head:
Full Portflow Unit - P&P and everything they do.
Combustion Chambers extended to 90mm
All Ferrea valves 1mm oversize
Dual valve springs and ti retainers.
Crower Custom Stage 3 cams with Skunk2 cam gears.

TWM Individual throttle bodies
SMSP Header
MSD 7AL with launch control

Block is going to be o-ringed, but I havent done it yet.

 

johnny, what's up. when the hell did you get tmw's??? jeromy just got some on his built b16, i guess it's insane, i haven't seen or felt em yet but vtec breaks them lose in 3rd according to smug. just seeing what you're up to. gimme a call sometime this weekend or something.240-0102

 

All motor B16?? Is it still a 1.6L? VTEC breaks them loose in third, when its dry, and it has good tires right???? My friends 230whp CRVTEC can't even do that, only in 2nd... Must be a really stong B16!!

 

Whats up Jesse, yeah once I got some money in I bought a few things. I went for a ride in Jeromys car a couple nights ago and it feels strong even though he couldn't even pass 7,000 RPM's, VTEC wasnt even coming on and it was flying. Felt faster than it was before and it was running on like 2 cylinders.

He's got some tuning to do he said and it might be running good now, I was gonna go by there tonight. I'll call ya up this weekend.

 

If you wanted to run that,its possible , but dont try and get an off the shelf je pistion and expect it to hold, your gonna want a piston with a .250 of material before the first ring starts just to be able to with stand the heat you will produce. I hope you have stainless valves with heat treating to at least 2400 degress. also you want to take out 2 degress of timing per 50 hp to be on the safe side maybe 1.25 if you get happy. but be careful i have experience with high compress. and nos. We campain a pro-50 mustang with a small block 400 cubic inch that has 14.5 compress. and 300-500 worht of nos on top.

 

You will also run the risk of crushing bearings with that sudden spike in cylinder press. so do some major reasearch before you hit the button , i read what you have done it seems all good except check twice even three times because nice stuff like you have costs alot to replace . Have fun though

 

Let me know when you're going to actually run this, cuz I want to see the fireworks. Seriously.

 

Well I've got Wiseco/Endyn Modified Rollerwave pistons. They are made for FI'd application. They are built closely to what you said. I'm running all Ferrea valves so they should be cool. Also, I'm not going to be running high compression. My compression is 9.6:1.