Anyone have the valve adjustment specs? Page is missing out of my service manual.

.007in exhaust
.006in intake

It ought to be on the sticker under the h00d, if you havent replaced it with one of them bling bling carbon fiber ones

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.007in exhaust
.006in intake

It ought to be on the sticker under the h00d, if you havent replaced it with one of them bling bling carbon fiber ones

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well actually it specifies a range for adjustment. Those values are within the range.

sorry, +/- .002 right?

Thanks! Sticker??? Too much weight man! Thanks again!

.017mm-.019mm Intake
.019mm-.022mm exhaust

.007/.008" works great adjusted cold
at the cam lobes/rocker pads.

It's actually in the 1/100th's of a millimeter not 1/1000th's... It's all good tho, I work pretty much in metric and DOHC VTEC it goes as follows... 0.15mm-0.19mm for the IN, 0.17mm-0.21mm on the EX... I go in the dead center of the specs at IN: 0.17mm / EX: 0.19mm but that's just me... Peace

Good info guys.

I tend to set mine on the tighter side. Valvetrain much quieter and I can't say much about performance from the butt dyno. But you have to imagine that as the valvetrain runs continuously at high rpms everyday it's going to get loose from the heat generated and cool down process. So it would be best to adjust it closer to the tighter side than the loose side. Besides...I would bet that everyone likes it tight.

personally I run mine at 7,8 (you all know what I mean) and I check them about every 3-5K miles. I just run them with the feeler before adjusting anything. they almost never move. usually just one or two are out of spec by like .001" and thats easy to fix. then again... I have GSR cams on ITR valvetrain...LMAs and all... so maybe thats why I figure there is no sense in starting a hour job by loosening all the fasteners and having to start from scratch. This way I can be in and out in 15 min.