I'm looking for some sound advice on how to turn the "check engine light" off after replacing the stock catalytic converter with a Ractive High-Flow cat converter.

I replaced it and the Check Engine Light came on, so i figured i could just take the O2 sensor after the cat out, and tie it to something under the car, and plug the hole with a O2 plug.
After weeks and hours on the phone, I finally got a plug at CarQuest. I erased the code and now i got two new codes instead:

1 of 2 P0137
O2 sensor Circuit Low Volts (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
2 of 2 P0136 pd
O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Before it was:
1 of 1 P0142
Catalytic Efficiency below Average

Any ideas on how to get the light to go off and keep the new cat converter?

99 Acura Integra LS 4 Door
Changes to the engine: Injen Air Intake, DC Headers, Greddy SP2 Cat Back Stainless Exhaust, JR Spark Plug wires, Bosh Platinum +4 Spark Plugs

 

You need to get an o2 simulator, or switch from OBD2 to OBD1

 

what's an O2 simulator? Would this replace the O2 sensor that i have on there?

 

it's a small electronic circuit that will send an oscillating voltage signal to the computer, fooling it into thinking that there is an O2 sensor functioning.

basically, you would wire this simulator in (you might be able to get one with an O2 sensor plug, I don't know where though), and your check engine light would go away for now.

you would need one for the four wire O2 sensor, so that it would replicate the presence of the O2 heater as well.

that would most likely get rid of both of your codes.

 

what do you mean O2 heater as well - does that imply that it's a different device than the O2 Sensor itself?

here's what i found in terms of O2 simulators:

This one - seemigly offered by a rather reputable company
http://www.importparts.com/sho...=2770

and this one - offered by o2simulator.com
http://www.o2simulator.com/6928.html

If i'm not mistaking i do have a 4 wire O2 sensor ... which one would you go for out of the two. I don't mind connecting the last one in the list, but i would however want it to work. If they both do the same thing, obviously i would want to pay less.
thanks much

 

your O2 sensor is heated, this allows for more precise readings when you first start driving, before the cat heats up. the computer will throw a check engine light if the heater circuitry is not present or broken, so you want to make sure you have a simulator that will compensate.

the first link seems to be vague, I'd contact them and ask if it compensates for the O2 heater.

the second link, you would leave the O2 sensor hooked up and most likely zip tied where ever (somewhere protected from heat, because you will allow it to still heat up), and you would cut the signal wire, etc, as it shows. I'd go for the second one.

 

hey - i ended up buying the second one and now i'm getting another code on my dash

1 of 2 P0138
O2 sensor Circuit High Volts (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
2 of 2 P0136 pd
O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

What the heck is up with this thing - it's really bugging me just about now. I mean is it really that hard to find a simulator to take care of this bugger? I've kept in touch with the person that build these sensors and the last thing he told me is that some acura ECM's are tricky and i could just ship this thing back and have him refund me the money.

any ideas?