Ok I have a 2000 Integra GSR with NO SPARK AND NO FUEL. I already changed the main relay. Here's what's tricky...

I have an AEM V1 OBD1 ECU.

My original block had a crank sensor and this block doesn't have a crank sensor but I don't think it matters because it's an OBD1 ECU right..????

I still performed the crank sensor bypass trick on the obd2 part of the harness.

My ignition switch was disconnected but I connected it back... (I don't know why it was disconnected. I bought the car and never noticed it was disconnected)

All I did was replace my block because a piston blew. That's it! Now I have no spark and no fuel. No power going to fuel pump and no spark coming from plug wires.

Need help!!! Please! I need to get this car running... What can I do!?

 

Help please!!

 

It's likely you have a conversion harness from obd2 to obd1. If that's so, then you need a crank sensor somewhere. If it's not on the new engine and it's not in the distributor then you don't have a crank sensor telling the ecu that you are spinning the engine and when to provide spark and fuel.

Moral of story, transfer the crank sensor from the old engine to the new one. Do it right.

 

What if I replace my distributor to obd1?

Why isn't my fuel pump priming? Even though there is no crank sensor present, why isn't the fuel pump priming when I have the key forward? No signal is being sent to the fuel pump

 

How does it work with a stock ecu?

 

I'm trying to find one.

 

What pins am I suppose to check on the main relay? I know it's three of them I just don't know which ones and what color they are.

 

What pins and what colors are the ones that I'm suppose to check on the main relay?

 

What pins and what color of pins am I suppose to check on the main relay?

 

double check your ground at thermostat housing

 

Unplug the relay and look for 3 powers...
1- 12V constant, hot at all times.
2- 12V switched, hot in run AND start.
3- 12V switched, hot only when cranking to start.

You do not need colors or pin positions to check for the powers.

If you have all 3 powers check for ground, black lead should have full continuity to chassis ground at all times, ground is at thermostat housing.

You should hear/feel at least one "click" from the PGM-FI Main Relay when you turn on the ign. switch on, even if the ECU was bad or even if unplugged. 94

 

Ok so I jumped two wires which are #2 and #8 and the fuel pump primed so I assume the ECM is bad. I have an AEM V1 ECM so is there something I can do to fix this with AEM because I don't want to buy another one. Do they go blank or go into safe mode?

 

Test it by supplying a ground directly to pin 8 of the relay, [should be a green/black lead] if pump primes ECU is bad or something is wrong with the wiring between the relay and the ECU 94

 

So what am I suppose to check to see if it's the ECU or a wiring issue or a fuse issue?
When I jumped the ground the fuel pump did prime. So is the ECM bad or is there an electrical issue between the ECU and main relay? I just want to make sure what it is before buy a new ECM

 

The ECU supplies a ground to the fuel pump relay, yours does not seem to be doing that, so either the ECU is bad or there is a connection problem between the ECU and the PGM-FI Main Relay.

First test is to check continuity of the "trigger" lead between the ECU plug and the relay, if good make sure the wire is in the correct pin position, have found more then one conversion harness that was not pinned properly, [Honda pin A7 and if using the Infinity adapter it is pin 41] but check to confirm. 94