What do you guys think about seating your rings?
saw this in the R forum, check it out.


http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I think you should try his method, come back and let us know how it works out....

 

well I'm just pulling the motor now, it wont be back in until spring. So i guess I'll have a while to think about it.
anyone else?

 

This has been covered before, with that specific link given, a quick search will help find more answers and information.

As an aside: Anyone using multiple explination points and question marks, neon fonts, caps locks etc, causes me to question their professional nature and thus thier scientific approach. OEM's spend hundreds of millions on research to reduce warranty claims, improve efficiency, etc, I'm usually more inclined to trust them, and seasoned engine builders in recomending a moderate break in. Just my two cents. Good luck with your motor build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Niles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This has been covered before, with that specific link given, a quick search will help find more answers and information.

As an aside: Anyone using multiple explination points and question marks, neon fonts, caps locks etc, causes me to question their professional nature and thus thier scientific approach. OEM's spend hundreds of millions on research to reduce warranty claims, improve efficiency, etc, I'm usually more inclined to trust them, and seasoned engine builders in recomending a moderate break in. Just my two cents. Good luck with your motor build. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a lot of seasoned engine builders say to 'break her in hard"

 

searcg for the post by"Earl" he had a long tech post on this exact subject, and he is regarded as one of the best engine builders on this site

 

i beat the **** out of my motor when i rebuilt it. GREAT compression and bearings are all still good etc

 

Warm her up, and let her RIP. In my option it work's like a charm

 

I followed this break in method with my current engine.

I started it up, let it warm up, topped off the coolant, set the timing, and took her for a rip.

I did the method where I gave it 50% throttle to 50% of the RPM range and let off the gas without pushing in the clutch. I did that a few times, then gave it full throttle to 50% of the RPMs etc. I basically followed the method as best I could on the street.

Seems to have worked well for me, the engine is running well. It's only been two weeks though.

I know a lot of people who break their engines in this way without problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by program &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you guys think about seating your rings?
saw this in the R forum, check it out.


http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't exactly like how that site is layed out, but the logic behind it does make sense to me. The bearings are never in contact with other metal surfaces (provided the engine is built correctly), and the rings are designed to be pushed into the cylinder walls from compression.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDHaTcHyGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">searcg for the post by"Earl" he had a long tech post on this exact subject, and he is regarded as one of the best engine builders on this site </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have the link handy, but I do believe Earl's recommendation was to take the brand new engine, load it into the car, trailer the car to the dyno, and tune it straight up, including full throttle dyno pulls. Which is about the same as doing full throttle pulls on the road, in my opinion. Thats all with a fully warmed up engine, of course.

 

i let my car run for a few until it came to normal op temp. let it cool completely. let it warm back up and went for a ride, going up to like 5-6k rpms and then took my foot off the gas but didnt engage the clutch. did that a few times, let it cool. then i just drove around normally, staying like around 4k rpms for prolly 300 miles. then i started boosting. seems to have worked well, my compression is good and my car pulls 25" vacuum at idle once warm

 

ok, I found this by Earl, but it doesn't really tell how to seat the rings, just says that it should be tuned first. Is this what you were refering to.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

 

" If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning."

this is bassically how u seat the rings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDHaTcHyGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">" If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning."

this is bassically how u seat the rings </TD></TR></TABLE>


close to what i did. also, i used stock injectors and a stock ecu for this, even though my turbo was installed, i just didnt get into boost. i wanted to make sure my fuel was on point, and with a chip tune it could deviate a little.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDHaTcHyGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">" If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning."

this is bassically how u seat the rings </TD></TR></TABLE>

so he's for hard break-in then. But he's not giving any real specific method. Just bring car to running temp and make sure nothing leaks then let it rip on the dyno for tunning.

 

umm 5-10 min at 1000-3000 to seat the rings,,, then tune the car on the dyno,, what else u need to know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReDHaTcHyGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm 5-10 min at 1000-3000 to seat the rings,,, then tune the car on the dyno,, what else u need to know</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely no way will the rings be fully seated in the first 5-10 min at 1k-3k rpm. All he is stating in this is to make sure you fresh rebuilt has; oil press, no leaks... etc. and you do that by bringing it to normal opperating temp while constantly checking everything.

 

they will seat in more over time , but they will be seated enough to tune the motor

 

about 80% of ring seating is done within first 20 miles.
you do need to load the engine to seat them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about 80% of ring seating is done within first 20 miles.
you do need to load the engine to seat them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly, an agressive break in will yeild better compression seal.

 

Make sure the AFR is at a safe level before you go crazy on it..

Thats the reason Earl suggests taking it to the dyno. Most people dont have the resources to monitor and adjust AFR..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMOTOR18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats the reason Earl suggests taking it to the dyno. Most people dont have the resources to monitor and adjust AFR</TD></TR></TABLE>

In that case, break it in NA with the stock ecu, injectors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In that case, break it in NA with the stock ecu, injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably what I'll do.
Now if I could just decide to go boost or N/A with nitrous

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In that case, break it in NA with the stock ecu, injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and that would be fine? tunings needed right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and that would be fine? tunings needed right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's basically saying; stock ecu + stock injectors/fuel delivery - all the mods you have waiting to go on your rebuilt block = propper a/f ratio for break-in