Engine's got about 95,000 miles. I hydrolocked it & broke a rod. The only other measurable amount of damage is a gouge on each side at the very bottom of the cylinder wall. Being @ the bottom, they will not cause a problem correct? Now, I'm going to have to ***** myself just to get money for the rod, so I'd like to hear some experienced input as to how much longer the engine will last with me re-using the bearings. They are all actually in very good shape, & only have normal surface wear with no scratches. I know that I should be getting new ones since I have it apart, but I am flat-broke, so it's going back together as it is. I have a few other Q's also:

Has anyone removed a piston, (wrist), pin with something other than a piston pin tool? If so, what did you use? The piston suffered very minimal damage, only on it's underside, & I want to re-use it but the wrist pin doesn't want to push out. Would it come out using an hydraulic press or would that **** the piston and/or pin up?

Has anyone re-used valve seals that they removed with something other than a special tool designed specifically for valve guide seal removal? What did you use to remove them? I want to pull them off to steam, then port the head, but I need to be able to re-use them, and I don't think it would be a good idea to leave them on during the processes - but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here.

I'm going to have to clean up the cylinders to remove the surface rust that has formed on the walls. What would be the best way to do this?

I'm thinking of reducing the head gasket down to one layer to up compression just a tad. With the layers being joined the way that they are, what's the best way to seperate the layers without ******* them all up?

I'm goin to be getting an aluminum flywheel within the next year, but while I have everything apart, I'd like to lighten the stock one a bit. Would this be something that I could do on a machine used to turn rotors? That might be a stupid question, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Someone clue me in.

Should I round off the edges of the quench areas/valve seats on the head? What about on the valves themselves? As far as doing the porting, should I use a grinding stone of some sort, a sand paper drum, (what grit?), a flap-wheel, or something more like a wire wheel? Any porting tips would be great!

And lastly, is there anything else that I can/should do, (that won't cost money - keeping in mind that I have access to almost any tool used to work on cars), while I have the beast apart?

Experienced input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Someone's gotta have some love for me here.

 

*Bump*

 

1. i think you have to use heat to remove the wrist pins?
2. i dont think you should re-use valve seals?
3. re-use bearings is OK, but DONT mix them up...
4. seals can be left on - they are metal?
5. you should lightly hone the cyl walls with a proper honing device.
6. use a knife to cut the head-gasket?
7. search hte 'net for head porting tips (i cant be bothered but there is lots out there...)
8. um, cant think of much else to do for free whilst it's out...

hope this helps - only my best guesses here though, someone else would be better to speak on these topics listed above!

(thanks...)

t..

 

check to see if the crank is bent or cracked.

 

Rods will bend before anything else make sure the are straight and true. If they are you are REAL fortunate.

 

1. There is a special tool recommended for removing them but I don't have that tool. If anything, it would probably be better to put the piston in the freezer, as the pin would shrink more than the piston would if frozen, but I'm sure there's a way around all that.
2. You shouldn't reuse valve seals, but I am. Read my original post to find out why.
4. I'm removing everything to port the head. The seals will come out when I pop the guides out though.
5. Gee ya think? J/K. I was looking for something more along the lines of a very fine-grit sandpaper, or maybe a soft, green "3M" scratchpad. I think the "3M"
pad is what I read to use before.
6. The head gasket is metal and consists of three layers which are fastened together by something similar to rivets. A knife is not an option here.
7. Any porting tips would just be a bonus. I wouldn't really expect anyone who was reading this to be able to provide sound porting advice, but sometimes, every once-in-a-while, someone with thousands of hours of porting experience visits Honda-Tech...

Thanks for your replies though.


[Modified by 94gsr, 4:34 PM 7/31/2002]

 

maybe that explains teh Crocodile Dundee scene:

"thats not a knife! THIS is a knife!"

mate - down-under, knives are sharp and can cut metal.

specaily soft head gasket metal.

anyways - good luck, you ARE going to need it...

t..

 

Sure, knives can cut metal, hell, I've seen the "Ginsu" infomercial where they cut a penny with it, but there is about zero clearance between layers to slide a knife in there. A razor is about the only type of knife slim enough to slide in between the layers without ******* them up. But then, I'd have to use so much force with a razor that I'd **** up the other layers anyway. See my point? Just pretend like I never asked that question.

God I miss the Endyn BBS...

 

so do i...

t..