I have an LSVTEC motor running on Neptune

Has quite a few added parts but isnt nearly a "fully built" motor.

I have had a reoccurring issue with this engine sputtering out on me when even I give it a 60-100% throttle and then quickly release up past the 4k rpm range all the way to redline.

For example if i am doing some "Sunday" driving at a decent pace basically when I got WOT down a straight then come off to brake and go around a corner I will see the check engine light blinks once really fast and then stay off (it only stays on long enough to notice a yellow flash coming from where the check engine light is). After this flash if I go back on the throttle at corner exit the AFRs go infinite (>20:1) and ill have not power. When this happens I have to wait for the car to drop some rpms, usually about 1 or 2k before the engine come back to life. And when it does kick in the AFRs dip into the 10s and return back to normally in maybe two or three seconds. I have not been able to tell if the power kicks back in at a certain rpm but I have noticed I have only experienced this problem above the 4k range.

And oddly if I doing a launch from standstill and go wot shifting at 8.5k red line through all the gears I do not get this sputter problem.

I had isolated the cause to fuel delivery or distributor problems, and i am now leaning to the dizzy seeing that the check lights blinks every time this problem occurs.

I have changed my fuel pump to a Walbro 255 and the problem persist i also change the fuel filter and was considering another FPR but dont have the money to buy an adjustable one. And all a fuel problem maybe contributing but I truly believe the problem lies in the ignition.

Additionally I was recently reading a thread on another website for an AEM EMS install into a Honda Civic and came across this statement "Honda Distributors
Honda distributors suck. They are the least reliable part on the entire car. The problem is inherent to the design. You have a cam/crank sensor that puts out a very weak voltage in the same housing as the coil and ignitor which output a very powerful spark voltage. The high voltage tends to interfere with the weak signal. You also have the problem of the distributor shaft wobbling and oil leaking past the seal. What most people don't know is that Honda built a work-around into the stock ECU so that it will tolerate a bad cam/crank signal. Your car runs fine, then you install a standalone and it wont sync up. Aftermarket distributors are even worse. The best thing you can do is replace your distributor with an AEM EPM and convert to distributor-less ignition. The EPM gives you a much stronger cam signal reliable well into high RPM where the stock signal lags behind and breaks up. "
taking from this post http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.ph...65746822c49e1f

Speculating on the above mentioned info, true or not, I would like to know if anyone has any insights on how I can go about exploring a fix for my problem.

Thnx

PS: I know alot of people are gonna post and say buy this buy that, change this, change that, and give no explanation or reason...please resist the urge to post useless **** like that as i am not a follower looking to be told, i am a learner looking to be taught.

 

anyone?

 

^^^^^