I have a 1993 civic Si (d16z6). In the summer time when it was really hot out, and I was parked in the sun, I had trouble starting my car. It would turn over, start, then die, even when I was stepping on the gas. The car would not die on its own when it was hot out, but if I stalled on a hot day while my engine was warm, it would take 15min-1hour to get it started again. I had assumed that because of the high mileage (120,000 miles) that perhaps my fuel injectors were leaking by. And when my fuel system got heated up, it would provide enough pressure to leak past.

I figured if I upgraded my ignition system it would burn off any extra gas that might find its way into my cylinders. So I did that over the winter with an msd ignition control module, blaster ss coil, modified distributor, and accel performance ignitinion wires.

Spring is on its way back to new england and it was 70 degrees out yesterday. I drove for about a half an hour, shut off my car, and when I went to start it up again, it wouldn't. Same thing, after about 10 minutes of letting it sit, it started up again.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any other ideas as to what it could be?

 

distributor maybe SNAFU, borrow one from someone, or check out your rotor and coil

 

Two areas you may want to investigate.

1- The main relay...it powers up the fuel pump and the injectors. They tend to fail with hot weather. The solder joints have hairline cracks that open with the expansion caused by heat. Listen for the fuel pump humming for 2 seconds when you first turn on the ignition.

2- Hot soak restart problem. The TW sensor is flakey and telling the ECU the engine is cold. Too much fuel is delivered in this condition and you flood the engine. Not sure about yours, but on the '90 Si it's just under the distributor, and it's not the same one that the temperature gauge works from. Or, maybe you've got a little air in the cooling system that is tricking the TW sensor?

 

what he said- if it starts for a second then stalls- most likely the main relay. A new TW sensor would be beneficial- it becomes less and less accurate over time- you might as well get a new relay too- it will fail eventually. I would lose the bogus "performance" ignition- stick with Honda- and NO remans!! DON'T USE AFTERMARKET PARTS!!!!


[Modified by fixhondas, 7:32 PM 2/22/2002]

 

my crx and prelude did the same thing. start with the pgmfi main relay. after i replaced that, they both ran like new. i haven't had any problems with either of them doing that since i changed out the relay.

 

Main relay problem, this exactly happened to me!

 

thank you so much for the info. with summer coming up again i want to fix the problem before it starts getting warm out. ill try the fixes and keep you posted.

 

How much does it cost for a new main relay from the dealer?

 

Yup.. I heard from a post that the proper way to start a honda is to put the key to the 'ON' position and wait approx. 2 seconds (until yellow engine light disappears), then start it.

I usually do this now that I know my main relay is bad. But just few minutes ago, I got into my car and didnt do this. I turned the key too quickly! and the dash lights appeared for a split second and they started to dim out. I have an alarm in my car so at this point it starts roar. Sometimes my key chain remote wont shut it off. So I pop the hood get out of the car, and disconnected the negative to the battery. Reconnected the negative with the key in the accessory position so it wont alarm. Then the car starts! This works almost every time, but I dont want to wait unit it doesnt work at all. Bad relay bad

 

Your dash lights dimming indicates either a low charge battery or excessive resistance in the battery circuit- since you removed and installed the negtive terminal and it was fine- you probalby have a poor connection here- a bad main relay will still allow the engine to crank but not fire. Main relay has nothing to do with dimming dash lights.

 

I meant dash lights = Battery, Oil, Engine etc. indicators (not the gauge cluster).
The dash lights dont just dim, they dim completely out. I hear 'click' and all of them disappear with the key on the 'on' postion or 'start'.. (only occurs once every week). Thats when I know my alarm will start sounding.

Battery Voltage reads 12.6v, and 13.85v with alternator running.
What else could it be?


[Modified by Quick 200k Mile Motor, 8:29 AM 2/24/2002]

 

sounds EXACTLY like a bad connection at the battery terminals or body ground- remove the terminals/ clean them/ if you have aftermarket battery clamps- the wire tends to corrode inside where it is clamped down to the terminal- sometimes you have to take the wires out/ cut them / strip them and reassemble the clamps. I would go get new battery cables from honda if this is your situation- but you can do this to find your problem- also check the ground at your body and thermostat housing. Remove and clean them.

 

agree

 

It happened again this morning! I put the key in, turned it to the "ON" position. All indicator lights in the cluster were on (Engine, Battery, Oil). I properly waited for the Engine light go off (unit fuel pump stops) then turned the key to "START".

I hear "Click" all the indicator lights in cluster and other accessories go out!
I immediately popped the hood, and what do I hear..

an electric arching noise "click tick tick ". Not coming from the battery area, but from the engine ground cable area (the one that goes from front brace of the car to valve cover). Something electric is happening in that area, above the AC compressor. The arching tick noise happened every second.

How can this be happening? I replaced that engine ground cable last year with thick 4 guage audio cable. Could be something else in the circuit. I'll try reconditioning that connection. If it doesnt happen again, then it was that engine ground connection afterall. But I still wonder why my friend's CRX start up and ran fine without that ground connection.

 

There is a more important ground that goes from the battery to the body beneath the battery to the transmission. This one must not be working at all. the valve cover ground is a secondary ground.


[Modified by fixhondas, 8:33 PM 2/25/2002]