car doesnt warm up all the way!!!
i think you should try #10 in the pic below. (part# 37750-PH2-014) its a 1-wire sensor that controls the dash gauge

the ECT sensor (#12) is a 2-wire sensor that sends signals to the ECU and has nothing to do with the dash. so unfortunately i dont think that was your problem.
other than that you could put an actual guage on it to get a more precise reading. normal operating temp is 176F and as mentioned above, the fan comes on at 200F. So anything in that range is good.

the ECT sensor (#12) is a 2-wire sensor that sends signals to the ECU and has nothing to do with the dash. so unfortunately i dont think that was your problem.
other than that you could put an actual guage on it to get a more precise reading. normal operating temp is 176F and as mentioned above, the fan comes on at 200F. So anything in that range is good.
Thread Starter
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From: deep south (hell aka texas)
It had 2 gauge cluster already, both read the same thing. Yeah #10 is the ect sending unit, im just waiting for the dealership to call so i can pick it up. And yeah if the ect sensor (#12) was my problem it would of thrown a code but i changed it out anyways. Hopefully its #11 thats my promblem, if not im stuck.
Although expensive, replacing parts with new ones will eventually solve your problem.
Spending money on parts you do not need, [didn't fix the problem] is justified because no matter what, it either fixes the problem or you have a known working part, that you may need some day, maybe.
Unless it is stupidly cold, like here, [-20C] you don't even need the cardboard, once engine temp. is up, [once around the block] rad fan will turn on eventually if the car is not moving, blocking the rad with cardboard, [or anything] will speed it up a little.
If the rad fan cycles on/off properly, [timing will differ with ambient temp.] when car is not moving, it indicates engine coolant temperature is correct/normal, if rad fan does not cycle properly, it indicates an engine coolant temperature problem, that's why you do that simple test first, have you done that yet?
I think you said you tested the thermostat, how did you do that and at what temperature did it open at?94
Spending money on parts you do not need, [didn't fix the problem] is justified because no matter what, it either fixes the problem or you have a known working part, that you may need some day, maybe.
Unless it is stupidly cold, like here, [-20C] you don't even need the cardboard, once engine temp. is up, [once around the block] rad fan will turn on eventually if the car is not moving, blocking the rad with cardboard, [or anything] will speed it up a little.
If the rad fan cycles on/off properly, [timing will differ with ambient temp.] when car is not moving, it indicates engine coolant temperature is correct/normal, if rad fan does not cycle properly, it indicates an engine coolant temperature problem, that's why you do that simple test first, have you done that yet?
I think you said you tested the thermostat, how did you do that and at what temperature did it open at?94
Thread Starter
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From: deep south (hell aka texas)
wasnt the mother fuc%^%$ing sending unit either!!! i changed out the thermo, ect sensor, sending unit, gauge cluster and coolant.. what the hell? still reads 1/4. ima try the cardboard thing when i get a chance. what else could it be?
Thread Starter
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From: deep south (hell aka texas)
i changed out the sending unit and nothing. still reads the same, starting to get pissed lol please help.. i changed out everything that could posibly b the problem i think... i changed out the gauge cluster, coolant, thermo, ect sensor, sending unit. all i want for Christmas is my car to run warm
Get a pair of needle nose visegrips and clamp the lower rad hose "half way from thermostat to rad" and dont clamp it totally just enough to restrict flow.I do this on my winter beater eg and it helps alot.
What kind of thermostat did you get? was it the factory recommended temp? also, a lot of them have a air bleed that has to be positioned upright to allow air bubbles to purge out during bleeding. have you tried taking an infrared thermometer to it to verify it really isn't coming up to temp and it's not the gauge or sending unit sending false information?
Thread Starter
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From: deep south (hell aka texas)
i bleed the air and all parts are oem. one of my friends who has a shop told me that 1/4th on the gauge is perfect. can anyone vouch this?
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