I searched and came up with a couple topics with the same problem but they suggested using a e-z out.

The bolt didn't break clean and its in there pretty deep. I tried using a e z out but with no luck. I think I'm going to replace the motor with a b20. Can you guys tell me what would happen if I continue to drive the car with one bolt missing off the cam holder.

The motor is a b18a. The cam holder that is missing the bolt is the 4 bolt from the right on exhaust No. 3.

I'm blaming all this on not buying a quality torque wrench

Thanks for the help

 

I'm surprised the e-z put didn't work.

You could take it to a shop and they'll be able to get it out.

I wouldn't drive it to far or at to high of a rpm.

Do you have the B20 already ?

That's not cheap either...

 

I'm going to pick it up this week. The
way the bolt broke it was at a point and I couldn't get a good bite with the e z out

I'm guessing that the cam could pop out with out that bolt ?


Modified by onemore at 9:59 PM 7/5/2008

 

That sucks
As stated above, a machine shop could probably get it out. Worse case scenario would be having to drill it out and installing a helicoil. If you're considering swapping a B20 in there, why not just look for a VTEC head and putting that in? I'm guessing a good condition VTEC head would be a lot less than a B20 longblock unless you're getting a really good deal on the B20.

 

yeah I have a b16 head also. It needs a valve job. My plans were a b20 vtec, I'm just waiting on the funds.

Do you think the machine shop can get it out with the head still installed?

 

I don't know if you'd want to risk getting metal filings circulating through your oil if they have to drill it out. I would pull the head if you're gonna take it to a machine shop, especially if they have to drill the old bolt out and tap it for a helicoil. I guess you could technically cover the surrounding area and use a shop vac or something to minimize the filings, but I don't really think it's worth the risk.

If I were in the same position, since you already have the PR3 head on hand, I would get it refreshed(change valve seals, valve job, hot tank, resurface if needed) by a machine shop, pick up a VTEC headgasket, LS/VTEC dowels, 1/8 NPT plug, oil lines/fittings and throw it on. You might also want to widen the valve reliefs in your pistons, but it shouldn't be an issue with B16A cams, although it's always a good idea to clay it to make sure you have enough clearance. If you have a socketed ECU, I'm sure you could just run a stock B16 bin or something for a while if you don't have the funds to get it tuned right away.

 

thank you for your help.

 

i just had a similar prob myself... the threads in side the head on my num 3 exhaust cam keeper stripped it was suggested to me to helicoil well after a few friends faild to get back with me i talked to a guy in town that owns a machine shop told, he me how easy it was, loaned me the kit to do it and my civic w/ B18b is back on the road again so yes drill it out with a 1/4 in drill bit and use a 6mmx1 helicoil kit that you can order from napa (unless you have a good home town machine shop that is willing to just loan it to ya free of charge)

 

Take it to a shop and have the bolt replaced. This is a basic repair and shouldn't take more than 1 hr to do:
1) Remove valve cover
2) Remove cam cap
3) Mask area with rags/paper/etc
3) Center punch broken bolt
4) Left hand drill bit and drill the bolt (right hand drill bit will work fine as well but won't auto extract link the left hand drill). You shouldn't have to drill more than 1/4" to 3/8"
5) If you're lucky the bolt with unthread with the drilling
6) Insert screw extractor and extract bolt
7) Run a trap through the hole
8) Clean up and reinstall the cam cap and torque to spec.
9) Reinstall the valve cover

 

In a perfect world that would be great but you cant center punch the bolt, it didnt break off clean and there is very little room to see to make sure that you have the bolt centered. I'm going to have to take the head off to fix it. I have a 100 miles driven no problems yet. We will see what happens its only a b18a.

 

Here left hand drills

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html

Buy the small ones and work your way up. You should be able to center the 1/16 close enough.

 

Confused....How did you attempt to use the EZ out per your first thread?

 

i didnt have to take my head off when i fixwed my threads i used damp paper towels and rags to keep from getting metal shavings into the head since the bolt broke off drill it out and do it with a 1/4 in drill bit since thats the size you would need to fix it with a helicoil kit any way

 

Thanks for all the help I got a good set of left drill bits and I'm going to give it another go.

 

Found these today:
$27.99 for the set.


http://www.shop.com/15_PC_Left...shtml

 

Thanks I know where to post my questions now. You guys have been really helpful thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onemore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks I know where to post my questions now. You guys have been really helpful thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Helpful is what we're all here for. All these ideas, just gives us all more knowledge.

I never thought to look for left hand drill bit's until your post.

We all learn ...

I'm buying 4 sets for work.