Hey everyone so I'm trying to rebuild my motor and can't seem to figure out how to use the bearing clearance equation or I think I figure it out? I know it's BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
For example IDBT= 2.3237 ODC= 2.1480
Do I subtract IDBT and ODC to get BC?
If so would I set it up like .1757=2.3237-2.1280-(2x?) I feel like its wrong?
The other thing is how do I find bearing thickness?
Sorry if these are noob questions.
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
For example IDBT= 2.3237 ODC= 2.1480
Do I subtract IDBT and ODC to get BC?
If so would I set it up like .1757=2.3237-2.1280-(2x?) I feel like its wrong?
The other thing is how do I find bearing thickness?
Sorry if these are noob questions.
Honda-Tech Member
That sounds correct. the packaging should show you what size your bearings are.
If you don't know what size you need, use this equation:
Main bore diameter - Bearing clearance - Main journal diameter = Bearing thickness. Then cut that bearing thickness in half and you should have the size of the bearings you need.
Your bearing clearance should be something like .002" - .006", it'll be in the book for the motor you're rebuilding.
In you're equation it should look something like this:
2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004 = (2X)
Let me do some math.
If you don't know what size you need, use this equation:
Main bore diameter - Bearing clearance - Main journal diameter = Bearing thickness. Then cut that bearing thickness in half and you should have the size of the bearings you need.
Your bearing clearance should be something like .002" - .006", it'll be in the book for the motor you're rebuilding.
In you're equation it should look something like this:
2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004 = (2X)
Let me do some math.
Honda-Tech Member
This is what my math comes up with
2 bearings (x) = 2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004
2.3237 - 2.1480 = .1757
.1757 - .004 = .1717
.1717/2 = .08585"
That should be the size of the bearings you need to achieve a .004" oil clearance.
What kinda engine is it?
2 bearings (x) = 2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004
2.3237 - 2.1480 = .1757
.1757 - .004 = .1717
.1717/2 = .08585"
That should be the size of the bearings you need to achieve a .004" oil clearance.
What kinda engine is it?
Quote:
2 bearings (x) = 2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004
2.3237 - 2.1480 = .1757
.1757 - .004 = .1717
.1717/2 = .08585"
That should be the size of the bearings you need to achieve a .004" oil clearance.
What kinda engine is it?
This is probably going to sound really noob but how you get .004? I'm lost on that part just wondering?Originally Posted by Black93Lude
This is what my math comes up with2 bearings (x) = 2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004
2.3237 - 2.1480 = .1757
.1757 - .004 = .1717
.1717/2 = .08585"
That should be the size of the bearings you need to achieve a .004" oil clearance.
What kinda engine is it?
and its going to be a D15y5 just going to be a oem rebuild, I'm trying to understand it before ordering bearings or anything. I'm planning to go with oem bearings and getting them from the codes on the block n crank and checking clearance does that sound right?
Quote:
If you don't know what size you need, use this equation:
Main bore diameter - Bearing clearance - Main journal diameter = Bearing thickness. Then cut that bearing thickness in half and you should have the size of the bearings you need.
Your bearing clearance should be something like .002" - .006", it'll be in the book for the motor you're rebuilding.
In you're equation it should look something like this:
2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004 = (2X)
Let me do some math.
Sorry to ask but do you think you can show me an example of the equation for bearing thickness? Thanks if you could!Originally Posted by Black93Lude
That sounds correct. the packaging should show you what size your bearings are.If you don't know what size you need, use this equation:
Main bore diameter - Bearing clearance - Main journal diameter = Bearing thickness. Then cut that bearing thickness in half and you should have the size of the bearings you need.
Your bearing clearance should be something like .002" - .006", it'll be in the book for the motor you're rebuilding.
In you're equation it should look something like this:
2.3237 - 2.1480 - .004 = (2X)
Let me do some math.
Honda-Tech Member
the .004" is the number I was using for the oil clearance. It's the clearance that you check with the plastigauge when you're putting everything back together.
http://79.134.3.14:8080/manual/Civhtml/7-7.htm
This will have a list of the clearances that you'll be looking for when you put it all back together.
This depiction shows what you are trying to avoid. You want the crankshaft centered as much as possible in the bore and bearings with an even amount of oil around the bearing halves and crank shaft.
So, from the 12' to the 6' position we have the bearing half, oil journal, crankshaft, another oil journal and the other half of the bearing. This is why you have the bearing thicknes x2 in your equation.
Lets get all of our numbers ready to go, you want an oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014, I'm gonna roll with .0012".
We have our Crank OD as 2.1480"
Our Main journal bore is 2.3237"
Our only variable is going to be the 2 bearing halves.
So, we start with the object that everything is going to fit into and then start taking our known items away to find out what is left. That number will be our 2 bearing halves.
The total bore diameter is 2.3237"
Subtract the Main Journal OD 2.1480"
Whats left from this portion of the equation is going to be the oil clearance of .0012 and our unknown bearing size.
When you subtract the Crank OD from the Bore Diameter you get .1757"
Next, Subtract our other known size, the oil clearance of .0012" and you get .1745". This is the size of the 2 bearing halves. Devide that number by 2 because we have 2 of them and you'll have your thickness of each individual bearing of .08725".
GL
http://79.134.3.14:8080/manual/Civhtml/7-7.htm
This will have a list of the clearances that you'll be looking for when you put it all back together.
This depiction shows what you are trying to avoid. You want the crankshaft centered as much as possible in the bore and bearings with an even amount of oil around the bearing halves and crank shaft.
So, from the 12' to the 6' position we have the bearing half, oil journal, crankshaft, another oil journal and the other half of the bearing. This is why you have the bearing thicknes x2 in your equation.
Lets get all of our numbers ready to go, you want an oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014, I'm gonna roll with .0012".
We have our Crank OD as 2.1480"
Our Main journal bore is 2.3237"
Our only variable is going to be the 2 bearing halves.
So, we start with the object that everything is going to fit into and then start taking our known items away to find out what is left. That number will be our 2 bearing halves.
The total bore diameter is 2.3237"
Subtract the Main Journal OD 2.1480"
Whats left from this portion of the equation is going to be the oil clearance of .0012 and our unknown bearing size.
When you subtract the Crank OD from the Bore Diameter you get .1757"
Next, Subtract our other known size, the oil clearance of .0012" and you get .1745". This is the size of the 2 bearing halves. Devide that number by 2 because we have 2 of them and you'll have your thickness of each individual bearing of .08725".
GL
Quote:
http://79.134.3.14:8080/manual/Civhtml/7-7.htm
This will have a list of the clearances that you'll be looking for when you put it all back together.
This depiction shows what you are trying to avoid. You want the crankshaft centered as much as possible in the bore and bearings with an even amount of oil around the bearing halves and crank shaft.
So, from the 12' to the 6' position we have the bearing half, oil journal, crankshaft, another oil journal and the other half of the bearing. This is why you have the bearing thicknes x2 in your equation.
Lets get all of our numbers ready to go, you want an oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014, I'm gonna roll with .0012".
We have our Crank OD as 2.1480"
Our Main journal bore is 2.3237"
Our only variable is going to be the 2 bearing halves.
So, we start with the object that everything is going to fit into and then start taking our known items away to find out what is left. That number will be our 2 bearing halves.
The total bore diameter is 2.3237"
Subtract the Main Journal OD 2.1480"
Whats left from this portion of the equation is going to be the oil clearance of .0012 and our unknown bearing size.
When you subtract the Crank OD from the Bore Diameter you get .1757"
Next, Subtract our other known size, the oil clearance of .0012" and you get .1745". This is the size of the 2 bearing halves. Devide that number by 2 because we have 2 of them and you'll have your thickness of each individual bearing of .08725".
GL
Originally Posted by Black93Lude
the .004" is the number I was using for the oil clearance. It's the clearance that you check with the plastigauge when you're putting everything back together. http://79.134.3.14:8080/manual/Civhtml/7-7.htm
This will have a list of the clearances that you'll be looking for when you put it all back together.
This depiction shows what you are trying to avoid. You want the crankshaft centered as much as possible in the bore and bearings with an even amount of oil around the bearing halves and crank shaft.
So, from the 12' to the 6' position we have the bearing half, oil journal, crankshaft, another oil journal and the other half of the bearing. This is why you have the bearing thicknes x2 in your equation.
Lets get all of our numbers ready to go, you want an oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014, I'm gonna roll with .0012".
We have our Crank OD as 2.1480"
Our Main journal bore is 2.3237"
Our only variable is going to be the 2 bearing halves.
So, we start with the object that everything is going to fit into and then start taking our known items away to find out what is left. That number will be our 2 bearing halves.
The total bore diameter is 2.3237"
Subtract the Main Journal OD 2.1480"
Whats left from this portion of the equation is going to be the oil clearance of .0012 and our unknown bearing size.
When you subtract the Crank OD from the Bore Diameter you get .1757"
Next, Subtract our other known size, the oil clearance of .0012" and you get .1745". This is the size of the 2 bearing halves. Devide that number by 2 because we have 2 of them and you'll have your thickness of each individual bearing of .08725".
GL
Thanks man really great info to know!! but last questions for the oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014 for the d15y5, do I just pick my desire oil clearance I want between .0007 and .0014?
You got .08725 for thickness of each individual bearing, so do I use this chart to find what color bearing? if so which one would it be? Because seems like .08725 is bigger then all of them or is it because all the numbers we use was example number so it didn't match up to those bearing thickness on the chart? I'm just confusion on that part as will.
Main Bearing thickness by color
Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”
Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”
Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”
Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”
Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”
Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”
Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”
Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”
Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”
Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”
Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”
Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”
Honda-Tech Member
That was just as an example, you'll need to measure the bore diameter and the crank diameter and then plug those numbers in to find your bearing thickness
This is a process that requires precision measuring tools of a known good calibration. You must measure the bores of the caps and the crank at multiple points to reduce your overall error in measurement. Not only does the diameter need to be correct, but the caps in particular need to be concentric. The smallest possible clearance the engine can run at is preferred, but all other surfaces must be taken into account (IE cam bearing surfaces) to prevent loss of oil pressure. Depending on what oil you plan on using.
In general: Inside Crank Cap Diameter - Crank Journal Diameter " the gap between the two. After that you must choose a bearing size that fits the clearance your build needs. Provided there was no major problems with the previous bearings, this should be very easy. If you have severe bearing damage or irregular wear, machining the crank axis and the crank itself may be in order.
In general: Inside Crank Cap Diameter - Crank Journal Diameter " the gap between the two. After that you must choose a bearing size that fits the clearance your build needs. Provided there was no major problems with the previous bearings, this should be very easy. If you have severe bearing damage or irregular wear, machining the crank axis and the crank itself may be in order.
Quote:
okay thanks bro for all the help! ill let you know how it turns out.Originally Posted by Black93Lude
That was just as an example, you'll need to measure the bore diameter and the crank diameter and then plug those numbers in to find your bearing thickness
Quote:
In general: Inside Crank Cap Diameter - Crank Journal Diameter " the gap between the two. After that you must choose a bearing size that fits the clearance your build needs. Provided there was no major problems with the previous bearings, this should be very easy. If you have severe bearing damage or irregular wear, machining the crank axis and the crank itself may be in order.
okay thanks! ill keep that in mind.Originally Posted by slowcivic2k
This is a process that requires precision measuring tools of a known good calibration. You must measure the bores of the caps and the crank at multiple points to reduce your overall error in measurement. Not only does the diameter need to be correct, but the caps in particular need to be concentric. The smallest possible clearance the engine can run at is preferred, but all other surfaces must be taken into account (IE cam bearing surfaces) to prevent loss of oil pressure. Depending on what oil you plan on using.In general: Inside Crank Cap Diameter - Crank Journal Diameter " the gap between the two. After that you must choose a bearing size that fits the clearance your build needs. Provided there was no major problems with the previous bearings, this should be very easy. If you have severe bearing damage or irregular wear, machining the crank axis and the crank itself may be in order.
Honda-Tech Member
Quote:
http://79.134.3.14:8080/manual/Civhtml/7-7.htm
This will have a list of the clearances that you'll be looking for when you put it all back together.
This depiction shows what you are trying to avoid. You want the crankshaft centered as much as possible in the bore and bearings with an even amount of oil around the bearing halves and crank shaft.
So, from the 12' to the 6' position we have the bearing half, oil journal, crankshaft, another oil journal and the other half of the bearing. This is why you have the bearing thicknes x2 in your equation.
Lets get all of our numbers ready to go, you want an oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014, I'm gonna roll with .0012".
We have our Crank OD as 2.1480"
Our Main journal bore is 2.3237"
Our only variable is going to be the 2 bearing halves.
So, we start with the object that everything is going to fit into and then start taking our known items away to find out what is left. That number will be our 2 bearing halves.
The total bore diameter is 2.3237"
Subtract the Main Journal OD 2.1480"
Whats left from this portion of the equation is going to be the oil clearance of .0012 and our unknown bearing size.
When you subtract the Crank OD from the Bore Diameter you get .1757"
Next, Subtract our other known size, the oil clearance of .0012" and you get .1745". This is the size of the 2 bearing halves. Devide that number by 2 because we have 2 of them and you'll have your thickness of each individual bearing of .08725".
GL
this just took me from kinda knowing to fully understandingOriginally Posted by Black93Lude
the .004" is the number I was using for the oil clearance. It's the clearance that you check with the plastigauge when you're putting everything back together. http://79.134.3.14:8080/manual/Civhtml/7-7.htm
This will have a list of the clearances that you'll be looking for when you put it all back together.
This depiction shows what you are trying to avoid. You want the crankshaft centered as much as possible in the bore and bearings with an even amount of oil around the bearing halves and crank shaft.
So, from the 12' to the 6' position we have the bearing half, oil journal, crankshaft, another oil journal and the other half of the bearing. This is why you have the bearing thicknes x2 in your equation.
Lets get all of our numbers ready to go, you want an oil clearance of between .0007 and .0014, I'm gonna roll with .0012".
We have our Crank OD as 2.1480"
Our Main journal bore is 2.3237"
Our only variable is going to be the 2 bearing halves.
So, we start with the object that everything is going to fit into and then start taking our known items away to find out what is left. That number will be our 2 bearing halves.
The total bore diameter is 2.3237"
Subtract the Main Journal OD 2.1480"
Whats left from this portion of the equation is going to be the oil clearance of .0012 and our unknown bearing size.
When you subtract the Crank OD from the Bore Diameter you get .1757"
Next, Subtract our other known size, the oil clearance of .0012" and you get .1745". This is the size of the 2 bearing halves. Devide that number by 2 because we have 2 of them and you'll have your thickness of each individual bearing of .08725".
GL
thank you very much
Hey back again with a few questions just need verification. First question is when I'm using plastic gauge for main caps I know I installing the bearing that goes on the block but I'm wondering if I also installing the main cap bearing as will when using plastic gauge? pretty sure I do but just want to make sure and does the same go for the rods?
Second question is I heard that when installing the main studs I should dip/coated it with regular motor oil before torqueing down but do I also coated when I'm checking with plastic gauge?
Last question is the most important one to me since every site I look it up on never talk specifically about where to put the engine assembly lube I know it goes on the bearings but do I apply to both side of 1 halve bearing meaning on the bearing side that contacts with the block and the side that contact with the crank? Not sure if that made sentences lol. Also do I apply any lubrication to the piston when putting the rings on?
And out of curiosity say I buy acl bearings and I heard they all come green? so if some of my clearance measures bigger or small would that mean those bearing would just be useless and ill have to order new bearings
Thanks if you guys can help me answer those questions!! sorry if there noob/dumb questions I just want to be on the safe side.
Second question is I heard that when installing the main studs I should dip/coated it with regular motor oil before torqueing down but do I also coated when I'm checking with plastic gauge?
Last question is the most important one to me since every site I look it up on never talk specifically about where to put the engine assembly lube I know it goes on the bearings but do I apply to both side of 1 halve bearing meaning on the bearing side that contacts with the block and the side that contact with the crank? Not sure if that made sentences lol. Also do I apply any lubrication to the piston when putting the rings on?
And out of curiosity say I buy acl bearings and I heard they all come green? so if some of my clearance measures bigger or small would that mean those bearing would just be useless and ill have to order new bearings
Thanks if you guys can help me answer those questions!! sorry if there noob/dumb questions I just want to be on the safe side.
Honda-Tech Member
How about u pick up a repair manual and read it. All the info your asking is in there
Honda-Tech Member
1-yes install both halves of the bearings, plasti-gage goes between one bearing and the crank, don't spin the crank at all and make sure everything is clean and dry. don't use any assembly lube or anything between the block/rod/crank and bearings during this step as it will throw off your readings.
2-I would coat the threads with oil to get a consistent torque value, no sense checking in a different way than you will be building it.
3-never put it on the back of the bearing up against the rod or block. make sure that area is perfectly clean and dry on both the block/rod, and the back of the bearings. Only coat the side of the bearing that will touch the crank.
4-any bearing that measures out of spec needs swapped for one that will measure correctly. they will be useless for that build but can be saved for another one.
2-I would coat the threads with oil to get a consistent torque value, no sense checking in a different way than you will be building it.
3-never put it on the back of the bearing up against the rod or block. make sure that area is perfectly clean and dry on both the block/rod, and the back of the bearings. Only coat the side of the bearing that will touch the crank.
4-any bearing that measures out of spec needs swapped for one that will measure correctly. they will be useless for that build but can be saved for another one.
Quote:
2-I would coat the threads with oil to get a consistent torque value, no sense checking in a different way than you will be building it.
3-never put it on the back of the bearing up against the rod or block. make sure that area is perfectly clean and dry on both the block/rod, and the back of the bearings. Only coat the side of the bearing that will touch the crank.
4-any bearing that measures out of spec needs swapped for one that will measure correctly. they will be useless for that build but can be saved for another one.
Originally Posted by stenseltizm
1-yes install both halves of the bearings, plasti-gage goes between one bearing and the crank, don't spin the crank at all and make sure everything is clean and dry. don't use any assembly lube or anything between the block/rod/crank and bearings during this step as it will throw off your readings.2-I would coat the threads with oil to get a consistent torque value, no sense checking in a different way than you will be building it.
3-never put it on the back of the bearing up against the rod or block. make sure that area is perfectly clean and dry on both the block/rod, and the back of the bearings. Only coat the side of the bearing that will touch the crank.
4-any bearing that measures out of spec needs swapped for one that will measure correctly. they will be useless for that build but can be saved for another one.
Thank you for answering my questions and clearing things up for me! Now I can start the build with confidence!