Bad valve seals?
Ok my motor has been sitting for about a month. i just started trying to get it back together. i had notice in cylinder 3 and 4 there was oil siting on top of the valves. what does that mean


Modified by si937 at 9:18 AM 7/4/2006


Modified by si937 at 9:18 AM 7/4/2006
Has this engine been rebuilt? If so I'm sure you lubricated the valve guides/stems during assembly. Some of this oil could have just naturally drained past the guide and onto the valve - not abnormal.
If the engine has been sitting but not rebuilt the same thing may have happened.
What is the condition of the head? Meaning has it been rebuilt? Were the valve guides replaced? Were the seals replaced? What is the stem to guide clearance?
If the head is used has the stem to guide clearance been checked? Are the seals new?
There has to be some oil up there on the valve stem to lubricate it or else it would sieze. In normal operation that oil would be swept into the cylinder and you wouldn't notice it.
If the engine has been sitting but not rebuilt the same thing may have happened.
What is the condition of the head? Meaning has it been rebuilt? Were the valve guides replaced? Were the seals replaced? What is the stem to guide clearance?
If the head is used has the stem to guide clearance been checked? Are the seals new?
There has to be some oil up there on the valve stem to lubricate it or else it would sieze. In normal operation that oil would be swept into the cylinder and you wouldn't notice it.
no i havent rebuilt it. i bought it from a friend that was using it for a all motor set up. im not sure on how many miles is on it. there was no oil in port 1 and 2 so i figured something was wrong. so its fine then?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si937 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of what? is it normal for the oil to run down the valve stem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the engine had been sitting it is possible, but I can't see clearly down the port to see how much oil there is. Is the pocket behind the valve filled with oil? Or is it just running down the stem and has wet the valve a bit?
Also, was the engine stored at an angle that was different than what it would be in the car?
If the engine had been sitting it is possible, but I can't see clearly down the port to see how much oil there is. Is the pocket behind the valve filled with oil? Or is it just running down the stem and has wet the valve a bit?
Also, was the engine stored at an angle that was different than what it would be in the car?
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ya there is a puddle of oil on the top of the valve. Ya i had leaned it a bit more then it would sit in the car to drain the oil. the head does have a lot of miles on it so to be on the safe side i am just going to rebuild it. thanks scott_tucker for the help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si937 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya there is a puddle of oil on the top of the valve. Ya i had leaned it a bit more then it would sit in the car to drain the oil. the head does have a lot of miles on it so to be on the safe side i am just going to rebuild it. thanks scott_tucker for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First thing, is this just the intake valves on cylinders 3 and 4 that are affected or are the exhaust leaking also?
What does the color of the exhaust port on cylinders 3 and 4 look like compared to 1 and 2? Is there a definate color difference?
In your original post you said you had 'just started trying to get it back together'. What does that mean exactly. Was the head off the shortblock or are you talking about just getting it ready to put in the car?
Did you look at the ports before you stored it for a month and notice a difference? Or is it just something you noticed when you dragged it out of storage?
Here's the problem with doing a valve job on an engine with high mileage without replacing the piston rings:
So you have a nice rebuilt head and all the vave guides have proper clearance, the valve seats are sealing properly, and maybe they even surfaced the head (which will raise the compression ratio).
So you have this nice, well sealing cylinder head on an old shortblock. Any shortcomings there are in that short block will suddenly get worse. Your oil control rings might be stuck in their lands (which is what they usually do on old engines unless something breaks) which will now make the rings leak oil and you will blow smoke not because of the valve seals, but because of the poorly sealing short block. I've had this happen too many times when replacing blown head gaskets for customers and have them come back pissed.
I'm not trying to scare you or anything but I've seen that a lot on high mileage engines (actually I don't think you said the exact mileage). If you are doing the work yourself go ahead and have the head rebuilt and see how it goes, I'm sure it will be fine. If it smokes or has bad compression at least you have a good rebuilt head and then all you will need to do is find a good short block.
No problem on the help, PM me if you ever need advice.
First thing, is this just the intake valves on cylinders 3 and 4 that are affected or are the exhaust leaking also?
What does the color of the exhaust port on cylinders 3 and 4 look like compared to 1 and 2? Is there a definate color difference?
In your original post you said you had 'just started trying to get it back together'. What does that mean exactly. Was the head off the shortblock or are you talking about just getting it ready to put in the car?
Did you look at the ports before you stored it for a month and notice a difference? Or is it just something you noticed when you dragged it out of storage?
Here's the problem with doing a valve job on an engine with high mileage without replacing the piston rings:
So you have a nice rebuilt head and all the vave guides have proper clearance, the valve seats are sealing properly, and maybe they even surfaced the head (which will raise the compression ratio).
So you have this nice, well sealing cylinder head on an old shortblock. Any shortcomings there are in that short block will suddenly get worse. Your oil control rings might be stuck in their lands (which is what they usually do on old engines unless something breaks) which will now make the rings leak oil and you will blow smoke not because of the valve seals, but because of the poorly sealing short block. I've had this happen too many times when replacing blown head gaskets for customers and have them come back pissed.
I'm not trying to scare you or anything but I've seen that a lot on high mileage engines (actually I don't think you said the exact mileage). If you are doing the work yourself go ahead and have the head rebuilt and see how it goes, I'm sure it will be fine. If it smokes or has bad compression at least you have a good rebuilt head and then all you will need to do is find a good short block.
No problem on the help, PM me if you ever need advice.
scott_tucker: First thing, is this just the intake valves on cylinders 3 and 4 that are affected or are the exhaust leaking also?
Me: Yes just the intake side. exhaust looks good.
scott_tucker: In your original post you said you had 'just started trying to get it back together'. What does that mean exactly. Was the head off the shortblock or are you talking about just getting it ready to put in the car?
Me: no, Nothing was disasembled. (history of it) I bought a Jdm gsr motor from california and put it in my car. well for some reason Vtec wasnt engaging so i bought this b16head from a friend that was using it for a ls-vtec setup. I bolted it up to my jdm gsr motor everything was fine. Later i bought a Build short block. so i took the head off the jdm gsr and bolted it up to the build motor and drove it for 2000miles. I took the motor out and sold my car with a sohc motor. now i have a new car and i am trying to get the motor put back together.
Scott_tucker: Did you look at the ports before you stored it for a month and notice a difference? Or is it just something you noticed when you dragged it out of storage?
Me: No i didnt look at the ports. i wasnt thinking anything of it. The motor was running fine.
I appreciate all your info. thanks
Modified by si937 at 11:35 AM 7/22/2006
Me: Yes just the intake side. exhaust looks good.
scott_tucker: In your original post you said you had 'just started trying to get it back together'. What does that mean exactly. Was the head off the shortblock or are you talking about just getting it ready to put in the car?
Me: no, Nothing was disasembled. (history of it) I bought a Jdm gsr motor from california and put it in my car. well for some reason Vtec wasnt engaging so i bought this b16head from a friend that was using it for a ls-vtec setup. I bolted it up to my jdm gsr motor everything was fine. Later i bought a Build short block. so i took the head off the jdm gsr and bolted it up to the build motor and drove it for 2000miles. I took the motor out and sold my car with a sohc motor. now i have a new car and i am trying to get the motor put back together.
Scott_tucker: Did you look at the ports before you stored it for a month and notice a difference? Or is it just something you noticed when you dragged it out of storage?
Me: No i didnt look at the ports. i wasnt thinking anything of it. The motor was running fine.
I appreciate all your info. thanks
Modified by si937 at 11:35 AM 7/22/2006
How much oil is on the back of the valves exactly? Are they flooded or is it just moist? You can replace those seals with the head still on using a special spring compressor and compressed air to keep the valves closed. As long as you have the skill you might want to replace them just for peace of mind even if you think they aren't going to leak.
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