well, if engine dont get to operating temperature, then the ecu will stay in open loop mode; wich is not the greatest.
Cant even believe this thread...you NEED a thermostat for the car to work properly....thats why every car has it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, if engine dont get to operating temperature, then the ecu will stay in open loop mode; wich is not the greatest.
Cant even believe this thread...you NEED a thermostat for the car to work properly....thats why every car has it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the thread is not to support the need for the thermostat, it's rather to understand why it needs it! just because it's there doesn't mean; that it needs it or that it's a good thing! we all know it needs it, but better understanding why it does is what the thread is all about

 

Leave it in.
Your car will never warm up. The ECU will over compensate and put extra fuel in, perfomance will suffer. Trust me I just went through it, thermo stuck open, never went past first line, ran like it is was restricted.


To whoever said your car will overheat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Leave it in.
Your car will never warm up. The ECU will over compensate and put extra fuel in, perfomance will suffer. Trust me I just went through it, thermo stuck open, never went past first line, ran like it is was restricted.


To whoever said your car will overheat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's the sort of info that will keep people, from taking their thermostat off their cars. i never knew that ecu would compensate(add extra fuel), if the thermostat was not present! thankx for your input

 

Without a Thermostat your engine will not fully warm up because coolant is constantly being cycled through the cooling system. Therefore your oil temp will be too low. With a low oil temp, all the contaminants that the oil has trapped won't be burned off.

Just thought I'd through in my 2 cents..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnX-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Without a Thermostat your engine will not fully warm up because coolant is constantly being cycled through the cooling system. Therefore your oil temp will be too low. With a low oil temp, all the contaminants that the oil has trapped won't be burned off.

Just thought I'd through in my 2 cents.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was changing the thermostat on my VW, and i noticed that even when it's fully open it will still restric the flow of cooland. it's there more or less like a metering device, allowing the water(coolant) to go throught it but at a specific rate!

 

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
you must be getting old, LOL

 

When I had my head built by JG Engine Dynamics about 3 years ago when everything was cool with them. I noticed after a few months when I was changing my thermostat that they had cut the one that was in there. It was bacsically just the metal ring sitting in there with the rubber gasket around it. I didn't know why they had done this, but the car ran fine. It did take a little longer to warm, but it always ran like a champ. I never noticed anything different about it. It was 2000 honda Civic with a Jackson supercharger.

 

What the heck are you talking about? Ofcourse a t-stat is suppose to restrict the flow of coolant. The t-stat is set to open at a certain temp. It opens so that coolant will be allowed to flow into the block/head. Thus keeping the engine at a predetermined operating temperature.

 

i did the same thing to my turbo prelude, turbo cars do run hotter so i cut out the internals of the thermostat. on a stock car with little to no mods, would make the car run very cool.

but in florida you really don't need to worry about alot of cold days and the car will reach normal temps pretty quick. gutting your thermostat will help in constant hard driving. i have never had a problem with mine.

i would have put in a mugen thermostat but it did not fit in the h23 block, i actually still have it in my garage

http://www.cardomain.com/id/boostlee

 

The oil doesn't "burn off" contaminants.

YOU NEED A THERMOSTAT!

Without a thermostat, your car won't warm up properly, for one thing.

However, more importantly, the thermostat is a very important part of your cooling system. I provodes a restriction so that the coolant will be pressurized, which is what keeps it from boiling.

 

People are running there cars without one, at least boosted cars and they don't seem to have problems. JG was a well respected shop back in the day, and if their doing it, there has to be a good reason.

 

Shouldn't your car run stronger with cooler coolant, why does it need to restrict flow to keep higher coolant temp? The reason I could think of for this is that the coolant need to be circulating at a certain rate so that the engine has enough time for heat exchange.

Oh well, I'm gonna take it off anyway and see what happens. I don't think my engine will melt if the coolant is traveling a bit faster. Maybe I'll swap out for a gsr water pump so the flow will slow down.

 

ktp4321 stated the #1 reason, pressure.

its the reason for a radiator cap, higher pressure = higher boiling point.

do you run a b-series? if so, just invest in a low temp thermo. from spoon or jun or something like that, youll have the best of both that way!

 

Why do you think cars even have them, if it's ok to run without them!?

First of all, you can't just run on cold coolant.

Second of all, with no pressure in the head, the boiling point of the coolant is drasticially lower. It is very possible that you will flash boil the water/coolant in the head, without even knowing it.

Keep it in. It's there because it should be.

Find one of the guys on this website with a fast car, and ask them if they use it.

 

Understand a race car is an entirely different animal than a daily driver.


Everyone I know with a race car either uses a slightly cooler thermostat or they use a thermostat with the internals removed. They do not completely remove the thermostat because of the reasons stated above by several different posters. Either way, they use pure water (or up to 25% antifreeze) with a water wetter. Pure water is used because it absorbs and dissipates heat better than any antifreeze (twice as good as 50% antifreeze) and the water wetter is used to prevent corrosion and change the flow characterizes of pure water (no foaming)

 

This is an interesting thread. I plan on running an electric water pump and was curious as to whether I could run a thermostat with this pump? I heard you can't since it will back up the water and eventually burn out the pump. Now I don't understand why the stock thermo bypass would'nt be sufficient for the electric pump. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

-Ryan

 

the ECU needs to see 170F water temp to get out of cold start loop. This ALONE is worth .2 seconds on a slow NA SOHC. A Autometer electric water temp gauge is YOUR FRIEND if you wanna be consistant at the dragstrip.

160 F after burnout, 170 F when staged. I do 1-2 dry hops at local track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ECU needs to see 170F water temp to get out of cold start loop. This ALONE is worth .2 seconds on a slow NA SOHC. A Autometer electric water temp gauge is YOUR FRIEND if you wanna be consistant at the dragstrip.

160 F after burnout, 170 F when staged. I do 1-2 dry hops at local track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good info bones, i wil be installing some gauges in the car soon. after reading this, i'll make sure water temp will be one of them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ECU needs to see 170F water temp to get out of cold start loop. This ALONE is worth .2 seconds on a slow NA SOHC. A Autometer electric water temp gauge is YOUR FRIEND if you wanna be consistant at the dragstrip.

160 F after burnout, 170 F when staged. I do 1-2 dry hops at local track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll be running full time open loop anyway so this shouldn't be a problem. The only thing I'll have to think through is whether the engine will over heat if coolant is now at a lower pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is an interesting thread. I plan on running an electric water pump and was curious as to whether I could run a thermostat with this pump? I heard you can't since it will back up the water and eventually burn out the pump. Now I don't understand why the stock thermo bypass would'nt be sufficient for the electric pump. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

-Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone run it like this?

 

I'm running a stock chipped ECU. Set the programming right and anything is possible.

 

10 year old thread revival...well i use no thermostat, i have a built turbo b18c1 and my temp needle hardly moves from its resting place. my car operates cool (preferable on a turbo motor)...i have 50/50 mix of water and water wetter, i run a high rate single cfm fan and i have it direct (running constantly) and a racing fluidyne radiator. never an issue, temp reads cool and more importantly, motor runs cool. im running a large garrett 35r turbo, ramhorn, full race dp and open waste gate, things get reallly hott, so having a cool motor is of utmost importance for longevity and operational usage.

ironically, during a high speed run 2 nights ago, i noticed my temp climb almost to the half mark, the next morning i realized that i was losing coolant near the 2 rear hose on the IM (throttle body and thermostat hose / i have both blocked off). turns out i blew a weld on the IM, even after driving home, the needle never passed the half mark. although there was a substantial amount of coolant overflow after shutting her down

 

You do not understand how a thermostat works and are doing more harm than good. These 2 points below are 100% correct: Fuel atomization is also temperature dependent and will be adversely affected without a T-stat