I want to do a build up, most likely for turbo. I was looking at purchasing a B20 block instead of a B18C block. I was wondering if anybody could tell me if this is a good idea. The way that I figure it, is the b20 block would be a little cheaper and it will have more displacement. I currently, have a GSR swap in my 95' EH. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I'd just keep the GSR block you have in there now.l

 

you can bore the b20 more but the gsr has the oil squirters...cant go wrong either way though..if it was me **full drag=b20..daily driver=b18c

 

B20 is still not recomended to be bored out past 84.5 from what i have seen cuz the sleeves would be too weak even with aftermarket sleeve because all the motor is is a bored out LS.

If any one want to buy a B20 Click sig

 

If you already have the GSR block, then why buy another, it should be fine for any kind of build up.

 

u should spend the money on the gsr u have and get it sleeved to 84.5mm..IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bruceleeroy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u should spend the money on the gsr u have and get it sleeved to 84.5mm..IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed here with that

then you will have the best of both worlds

cc's and oil squerters

 

Do you plan on sleeving? If so, I say you really can't go wrong with either. The B20 will yield more torque as the B18c likes to be reved a little more and will make more power up top. Don't factor in the oil squirters cause they are usually ditched when running forged internals anyways. I would think more about downtime and the goal of the build.

Now if you aren't sleeving I would hands down go with the B18c. The B20's are known for sleeve cracking due to the cast manufacture of their sleeves. You already have the swap in and if you don't plan on sleeving anything you might do can feasably be done with the bulk of the motor still in the car. Good luck in whatever you choose, it will be a fun and expensive road.

-Ryan

 

1. Yes, I do plan on resleeving the block.
2. I am buying another block for now, because the engine that I have now is in my daily driver and I can't afford to have it out of commission for months on end. I plan on doing the full build up on another engine, then replacing the B18 that is in there now with the new built one. After that I will sell the extra complete long block.

Thanks for the info, guys. I did not realize that the B20 was just a bored out LS. This makes quite a bit of difference in the decision that I will make. I guess I'll keep on looking for a B18C1 bare block.

 

Well, the B20's sleeves are bigger than an LS's... which is why it can be bored to 2.0, while an LS can't.

And who says you need to ditch the squirters when you go w/ forged internals ???? Did you just make that up ?

You are sleeving... I say go with the GSR block purely for the squirters and extra webbing....not to mention it already has the oil passage for vtec built-in and provisions for the knock sensor (if you plan to keep it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X2BOARD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the B20's sleeves are bigger than an LS's... which is why it can be bored to 2.0, while an LS can't.

Well actually the B20 is already a 2.0 so no boring need. But if you do decide to bore you are walking a fine line since the sleeves are more brittle than the other B-series sleeves.

And who says you need to ditch the squirters when you go w/ forged internals ???? Did you just make that up ?

I never said you have to, but most do. Atleast when resleeving. I had my block sleeved by GE and it came back with the squirters plugged.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

b18c better r/s ratio