well i have ARP rod bolts, i torqued them to factory spec, is this ok, or do they need to be even tighter, for some reason i heard from 1 person, that they need to be torqued down more than regular bolts is this true..... because if so i need to take my entire bottom end apart again

 

I have the same question??? As with the rod bolts, if you are using the ARP head bolts is there a higher torque requirement?

 

which rod bolt kit did you get. the 8mm kit for d series and ls b series are torqued to 26 lbs./ft. with ARP lube. the 9mm kit for b series vtec's are toqued to 40 lbs./ft. with ARP lube. both kits has a higher torque spec(s) than factory spec(s). they also MUST BE torqued, loosen, torqued, loosen, and toqued a final time to properly seat and stretch the rod bolts(only need to do this the first time they are toqued). did you have the big end of the rods reconditioned when the arp rod bolts were installed? a majority of the time, the big end housing bore will distort due to the increase in clamping force from the arp rod bolts

 

bump....Anyone else have a positive ansewr to this?

 

i called eagle it was 29 lbs foot with lube

 

Any fastener is strongest when given the proper amount of stretch. arp's require more stretch because the are stronger therefor they require more tq.

 

I have ARP L-19 bolts on my SAENZ Con Rods. As far as I know the L-19 is about the strongest ARP sells. I don't know the exact specs of the bolt, but I do know I used a 11mm 12 point socket to remove them. My engine is a H22A1 prelude motor. I'm using 5w-30 motor oil as lube. I would like to know the exact torque specs I should use. I called ARP but they asked me for curtain info that I didn't have. I've gotten different specs.....50ft lbs.......36 ft lbs. I'm confused.


Please help.