Am I right to assume...(ignition timing problem)
I checked my ignition timing today for the first time since I've owned the car. To my horror it was set exactly at TDC or 0 degrees. So I went to adjust the timing and could only achieve about 8 degrees btdc by rotating the dizzy. Am I right to assume that my problem lies with cam timing? Would I not able to achieve the proper dizzy adjustment if my timing belt was off a tooth, and cam timing was retarded the 8 or so degrees I need?
I guess the only way I'll know for sure is to get the valve cover off... I was just wondering of if it sounds like I'm on the right track with what needs to be done. Cheers,
I guess the only way I'll know for sure is to get the valve cover off... I was just wondering of if it sounds like I'm on the right track with what needs to be done. Cheers,
Was there anything wrong in the first place? With a few hondas you have to short the diagnostic jumper together before you check the timing, if you are really off by that much you have to actually adjust the cams because adjusting the distributor would not put you back into the correct timing...
Nothing really wrong... I had just swapped over from a non-vtec pm6 ecu, to a proper vtec pr3 ecu... Vtec works, no codes...
For some reason the car always seemed to be hitting a wall when accelerating, until around 6k rpm, then she just screams. I had always assumed my timing was off by how the car felt but I wanted to make sure I had the right ecu in there before I started messing with her.
I bought the car off ebay, flew to cali to drive it home, and the water pump went out on the trip. I'm 95% sure the "gas station" mechanic that did the pump not only timed it wrong, but also has the timing belt off a tooth.
I am assuming that the intake cam pulley is off a tooth to the retarded side, which is why I can't advance the dizzy enough to get to spec timing, being as the the dizzy rotor is basically attached to the intake cam...
I'm hoping that makes sense... Re-reading your post now, I think we are on the same page...
Thanks, I'll let ya know how she turns out!
For some reason the car always seemed to be hitting a wall when accelerating, until around 6k rpm, then she just screams. I had always assumed my timing was off by how the car felt but I wanted to make sure I had the right ecu in there before I started messing with her.
I bought the car off ebay, flew to cali to drive it home, and the water pump went out on the trip. I'm 95% sure the "gas station" mechanic that did the pump not only timed it wrong, but also has the timing belt off a tooth.
I am assuming that the intake cam pulley is off a tooth to the retarded side, which is why I can't advance the dizzy enough to get to spec timing, being as the the dizzy rotor is basically attached to the intake cam...
I'm hoping that makes sense... Re-reading your post now, I think we are on the same page...
Thanks, I'll let ya know how she turns out!
Yeah if the car lags then it might be the timing is off by a little bit probably half a tooth, if you are off by 1 tooth or even half a tooth adjusting the distributor would not be able to place the timing back to spec, you are going to have to remove everything and look at your timing marks to make sure everything has been adjusted correctly, i would think that your cam timing is off so make sure the two marks align properly...good luck on the car
HOLY ****! Sorry for the curse but it is needed in this case...
I got into the car today and found that my cam timing was off 1-2 teeth!!!
With the cams at TDC the crank pully was retarded I'm guessing 20 or more degrees!!! The pointer was a good inch BEHIND TDC!!
The car absolutely SCREAMS now!!! What a hugely insane difference!

Thanks, Neil
I got into the car today and found that my cam timing was off 1-2 teeth!!!
With the cams at TDC the crank pully was retarded I'm guessing 20 or more degrees!!! The pointer was a good inch BEHIND TDC!!
The car absolutely SCREAMS now!!! What a hugely insane difference!

Thanks, Neil
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