Ok heres my problem: I have set everything at TDC and it is perfect on that part. Ignition timing is slightly retarded from stock. First off all it backfires at idle and even worse when revved. 2nd I checked the plugs and 4 is covered in carbon, 3 is always wet, and 2 and 1 look good. It also stalls when I let off the gas to press the brake. I have installed an safc but I don't know how to tune it. Should I just tow it to a performance shop and let them rape me on labor charges or dous anyone have any ideas why I'm having the problems I'm having? Please help.

99 b20z block w/ 84.5mm 11.5 to 1 pistons, eagle rods, z10 block girdle, gsr oil pan and pickup, gsr water pump

94 Ls head P&P, crower 404's, dual valvesprings, Skunk 2 intake manifold w/ type R throttle body. Head has been milled 50,000.

Fuel management: Safc II and rc 310cc injectors.

 

Hey Nick, this is Steve, as you can tell from my SN, anyway haha, mess wtih the cam timing a little, it sounds like timing man. You have the head milled, so maybe a tooth off, you have to compensate, you know. Does it backfire out of the intake or exhaust?

 

Hey I was trying to get ahold of you today. Anyways it backfires out of the exhaust. I think I'm just going to sell the head. I'm sure if I got it running it would run hard but when it lopes, so does the whole car . I think I should just get a vtec head so I have daily drivability. These 404 cams aint no bitch!

 

Man, your setup aint no bitch, lol. That setup should not be in a daily driven car. You remember Georges LS CRX wtih his cams, that bitch loped wicked, the whole car would shake wiht every lope. You should do like I told you when you first got the car, keep the hatch for track only, and your 4 door for daily. Good gas, 4 door, looks alright, nice *** wheels, haha. That way you can tune the **** outta the hatch/ My motor should be together and ready to drop in next week, I am hoping i can get the car started with pump gas, lol, i am gonna be close to 12:1 compression(it should be okay), but if it runs right, it should hit a low 14 in the 1/4, sohc, without nitrous... Im aiming 13.7 with nitrous and drag radials.

 

if you are misfiring then you should double check that the plug wires on the distributor are in the correct locate.

if that's on double check the wiring from the SAFC to the ECU. i bet you mixed up the MAP sensor wire and it's causing it to run like crap.

is the engine light on?

 

If that was the case there would be a CEL, for map. Plus it was doing it before the AFC install. He says the plugs are real wet so that can be causing it to get a weak spark, but you dont really want to lean the injectors out, running that high of compression, you would want a lot of fuel. What you need is a aftermarket FPR, so y ou can adjust how much gets in. And double check the firing order, sure you have, but its 1 3 2 4. Do you have any CELs? I would try to get some sort of aftermarket igntion also, running that high of compression. Help burn the fuel more effeciently. Just some opinions..

 

The only cel I have is heated o2 and I when I rev the manifold pressure drops to like -280 and then it will have trouble idling properly and it will stall. I have all wires hooked up properly so I know I don't have the map and tps in the wrong places. I double checked the wire colors in the helms manaul just to make sure. I think I'm just going to say **** the idea of nonvtec and go with vtec. I won't have as many problems with a vtec head as I am with these 404 cams. Oh and this is going to be my daily driver so I need something a little more tame at the lower rpms.

 

ttt

 

Dude dont get a VTEC head! Stay non VTEC! I would take it to a shop and have it tuned if you cant do or know someone who has. So your not getting any other codes? Sounds like you have a monster that needs to be tamed! Does it just rip @ any rpm?

Blaze

 

have you checked to make sure you have the plug wires in the right order???

 

I talked to him on the phone last nihgt, but anyway, he told me that when he first went to start the motor, the skunk2 cam geras he has, were loose, so he started it up, and they just spun all the way retarded. Now, im not quite sure, but if you ask me, I think that can mess some valves up, not saying that it is 100%. But we talked for a while, and what it sounds like is a compression problem, or timing related, i would of went by but it was pouring rain, so we couldnt check. I agree with blaze that you should stay non vtec, with this motor. The ammount of torque you will have will be great, and no vtec motor can really do that same thing(not saying its not possible but).

Keep the 4 door for daily, keep the hatch for a project, call it project 12 second ek.

Give me a call later, im not sure if i am doing anything, i can prolly come by..

 

One mre thin have you checked your valves? Are they adjusted correcly? You may want to double check that sort of thing too.

 

My plug wires are in the right order and I checked my valves when I put the head on. Everything is at TDC and ingnition timing has been performed. I don't know what else to do except take it to a performance shop and see what they can do. I have someone offering me over $1,000 for the head in case I want to sell it. So if I get it running after taking it to the performance shop and I don't like the way it runs then I will just sell the head.

 

Has anyone mentioned Headgasket yet? Maybe it didn't seat right. I didn't put my headgasket on right and I could hold idle below 800RPM.

 

Well it idles just fine. I just can't get it to drive properly and occasionally it will backfire at idle. I used a brand new headgasket with copper sealant and arp head studs torqued down properly. The only think I'm worried about is that my head gasket is a stock 84mm head gasket and my bore is 84.5mm's so I wonder if that could create a problem? But hey anything is possible. I am just going to run it by a performance shop tomorrow and see if they can figure out the prob at an affordable expense. I think it just needs to be tuned.