did a search. some conflicting information. i've heard that 11-11.5 can be gotten away with. timing will of course have to be retarded. would anything else help?

 

i think 11:1 would be ok with 91 octane, like you were going to do anyways and be conservative with your timing, you should be fine

 

No probs here. 11.6:1 on 91 octane, factory timing, and using a chip.

 

what about 93 with 11:1 and 18BTDC, stock GSR head and stuff with ITR block, stock HG, NGK OEM ITR plugs 6 heat range 11 application code

 

~11.7:1 here on 91 octane. skunk2 program with 14degrees base timing.

 

b18-ej1, what kind of chip are you using?

sparkz, how is the skunk2 program set up?

i have a chip too but its a mystery as to what its parameters are. it has fuel maps to rev to 9000 and no rev limiter. i know it added torque and probably a couple hp. if i can run higher compression than 11:1 then i'd like too. if i use a .062 head gaket that would put me at ~11.25:1. have to mill the head to go higher. should i use colder plugs too? thanks

 

11:1 without an issue on stock timing...now I have a tuned ECU and I still don't have an issue.

Austin

 

Sorry, I had forgotten, I'm on the TODA chip right now. FUEL PIG it is........

I think I'm going back to either PYR or XS Engineering. I also have a G-Force that I want to try, and I got a mugen, Jun, and I think a Spoon chip here somewhere.

 

Go with Hondata and proper tuning. You'll get away with more than that. Plus you won't drink gas like it's going out of style. I've run the chips for awhile because the Hondata systems were too much. Realistically though if you factored in fuel cost, the Hondata would be much cheaper after 6 months.

 

Tuned Hondata setup and I've gotten 26, 28 and 29mpg on the last couple of tanks...and I don't drive like a little old lady either, vtec is at 4500rpm, so the mountain roads that I drive are causing me to go in and out of vtec for my entire commute.

Austin

p.s. I'm also running 290cc/min injectors because I ran out of fuel.

 

Hope you had a gas can! J/K

Can you tell us more about your setup?

 

I can't afford the $600+ price tag for the 2dn and tuning. Besides that, I'm not done installing parts.

Still waiting for the Skunk2 manifold to get CARB approval, and I'm going to install a set of 63402 crowercams.

 

I like it. What compression are you running? Sounds like we'll have nearly the same setup. BTW I would not have you get the Hondata 2d setup. Get the new S200 setup. If you already have a socketed OBDI conversion then the cost would be just over 1/3 that from the guys at hondasaver. Not sure if they'll get mad at me for posting the price. They'll build you a base map, then you can tune it when you get all your stuff in. That's what I'm doing. Good luck whichever path you choose bro.

 

91 octane; 12:1 with base timing @ 5-8 btdc, all of it it tune dependent. also remember, your camshaft selection can lower your dynamic compression significantly. So you might have 13:1 pistons (static compression #), but due to the valve overlap induced from your cam, it's equivelent to have 11.8:1


[Modified by builthatch, 5:48 PM 9/25/2002]

 

True. You'll change your overlap with your cam gear settings for best power though.

 

Everything you ever wanted to know about my setup and more...full review of the HyTech header and exhaust included:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=269935

Austin

 

Since you already have an OBDI ecu the cost would be $300 plus a couple of bucks to make sure that your ecu was socket correctly for Hondata.

Austin

 

Very nice. Any plans for further mods?

 

How do you figure?

2Dn = $545

+ Dyno time.

 

Yea, I saw the S200 when they released it, and I do like some of the features. BUT it's even more $$$ for what I want.

S200 with datalogging and romeditorV3 = $695

OUCH!

 

Yessir, but the new S200 us modular in design. You can add the stuff you wan't whenever you want, without even sending the unit to them. Great design IMO. If you go to an experienced Hondata dealer, they should be able to burn you a base map to get you by for now. Finish your motor building, then get it tuned properly. You can add datalogging and get a rom burner whenever you want.

 

I have an older blue box version 2...want datalogging, but have yet to find a use for it, and I don't need to play with my program, would like to play around with somethings, but it isn't a needed expense at this time, and you can add in the datalogging at any time later in the future.

Austin

 

Next weekend I am due to install a new clutch and pressure plate, Comptech Al flywheel, and a JDM Final Drive. That's it for a while, the suspension is more than good enough for my current use of autocrossing, some drag racing, and rare track day...would like to get an Autopower before next spring.

Austin

 

nice. my buddy just put in a 98+ JDM ITR tranny in his GSR. The 4.785 in the USDM ITR tranny would be a sight to behold in your car bro... 200whp and tight ratios... LSD... beautiful.

anywhoo. an update. I dynoed a baseline today, 158/121 w/120 at 5252rpm
SAE corrected. GSR head/cams/valves/HG/ARP studs, ITR block/valvesprings/LMAs/Ti retainers, GSR manifolds/fuel/ecu, exhaust,
fresh air to stock intake and ITR muffler. complete with glow in the dark
header the dyno revealed me to be in the 15.7-13.7 range from
3-8K. I guess this is a bit lean, but acceptable for now
maybe I should finally add my mugen temp controls and B&M FPR kit and dyno tune it a couple runs on oct 5th.

 

15.7!! dude, "a bit lean"? that is waaaay tooo lean! I would be really scared of somethings happening, you're egt's are prolly thru the roof, fatten that bitch up alot and you'll see your motor alot longer and gain significant HP.

Yamashita Say: "glowing heada nota good for mota"
Jared Say: "youre goddamn rite bro!!!"




[Modified by builthatch, 8:51 AM 9/26/2002]