Zero toe theory???
I don't have a camber kit on my car. I have inner tire wear due to camber or toe.
If I zero out the toe will that help out the tire wear? I've heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it worked or not. If you have done this please chime in on your experience. Thanks
If I zero out the toe will that help out the tire wear? I've heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it worked or not. If you have done this please chime in on your experience. Thanks
did you lower your car? its a FACT your toe changes as you change your ride height. so get an alignment anyway because you need one. its not a question.
once you get an alignment, tell us what the read out said... then youll be convinced.
once you get an alignment, tell us what the read out said... then youll be convinced.
Yeah, car is lowered. But my question was "does setting toe to zero correct tire wear?" I thought about getting a camber kit but am thinking otherwise due to conflicting ideas. I mean it makes sense to zero out the toe to correct tire wear, but how many people have actually done this instead of purchasing a camber kit?
Thanks for your info
Thanks for your info
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRPIMPIN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, car is lowered. But my question was "does setting toe to zero correct tire wear?" </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it does.
if you get a camber kit, your toe is still out of spec and you wont know what your camber is really set to. how does that make sense?
yes it does.
if you get a camber kit, your toe is still out of spec and you wont know what your camber is really set to. how does that make sense?
2 fingers gap on my teg 205/45/16 parada2's going on 2 years -2degrees camber front -1.5 degrees camber rear, zero toe or rather.0013 something, only regular tire wear no cords showing, tire looks amazing for any setting actually.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenRacerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 fingers gap on my teg 205/45/16 parada2's going on 2 years -2degrees camber front -1.5 degrees camber rear, zero toe or rather.0013 something, only regular tire wear no cords showing, tire looks amazing for any setting actually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good scenario to show how toe effects tire wear. camber will affect tire wear also but not as drastic. to the original poster of thread, get your alignment, have them set toe as close to 0 as possible and rotate your tires often. IMO you only need a camber kit if your camber is really bad like -3 and up
good scenario to show how toe effects tire wear. camber will affect tire wear also but not as drastic. to the original poster of thread, get your alignment, have them set toe as close to 0 as possible and rotate your tires often. IMO you only need a camber kit if your camber is really bad like -3 and up
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes it does.
if you get a camber kit, your toe is still out of spec and you wont know what your camber is really set to. how does that make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what your saying , but my main objective was to slow tire wear. I appreciate everyones help. thanks
yes it does.
if you get a camber kit, your toe is still out of spec and you wont know what your camber is really set to. how does that make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what your saying , but my main objective was to slow tire wear. I appreciate everyones help. thanks
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it does.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not entirely accurate... cars have different settings based on their dynamic toe change.
toe tire wear will present itself as feathering, whereas camber will present itself as smooth shoulder wear.
now that the car has been lowered, and the geometry angles changed, your best is to guess and check. correct camber and toe on the rack and drive it... if you cant solve your tire wear problem through alignment, you'll either have to live with it and rotate your tires often, or work with another suspension setup (ride height, etc.)
thats not entirely accurate... cars have different settings based on their dynamic toe change.
toe tire wear will present itself as feathering, whereas camber will present itself as smooth shoulder wear.
now that the car has been lowered, and the geometry angles changed, your best is to guess and check. correct camber and toe on the rack and drive it... if you cant solve your tire wear problem through alignment, you'll either have to live with it and rotate your tires often, or work with another suspension setup (ride height, etc.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
now that the car has been lowered, and the geometry angles changed, your best is to guess and check. correct camber and toe on the rack and drive it... if you cant solve your tire wear problem through alignment, you'll either have to live with it and rotate your tires often, or work with another suspension setup (ride height, etc.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf j00 talking about?
now that the car has been lowered, and the geometry angles changed, your best is to guess and check. correct camber and toe on the rack and drive it... if you cant solve your tire wear problem through alignment, you'll either have to live with it and rotate your tires often, or work with another suspension setup (ride height, etc.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf j00 talking about?
um but it doesnt. that may hold true if the stock ride-height setting is 0 total, but now that the car is lowered, compensation for dynamic toe change is out the window.
when manufacturers give you a spec for static toe, they're taking into account road force and dynamic toe changes. just because someone zeros their toe doesnt mean that toe-related tire wear will be eliminated - especially if the vehicle ride height has been changed...
so like he said, go ahead and zero it and hope you luck out. if it works out, great! if it doesnt, then he'll have to find another way around it.
when manufacturers give you a spec for static toe, they're taking into account road force and dynamic toe changes. just because someone zeros their toe doesnt mean that toe-related tire wear will be eliminated - especially if the vehicle ride height has been changed...
so like he said, go ahead and zero it and hope you luck out. if it works out, great! if it doesnt, then he'll have to find another way around it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um but it doesnt. that may hold true if the stock ride-height setting is 0 total, but now that the car is lowered, compensation for dynamic toe change is out the window.
when manufacturers give you a spec for static toe, they're taking into account road force and dynamic toe changes. just because someone zeros their toe doesnt mean that toe-related tire wear will be eliminated - especially if the vehicle ride height has been changed...
so like he said, go ahead and zero it and hope you luck out. if it works out, great! if it doesnt, then he'll have to find another way around it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It strikes me that with a suspension that gives you less total movement up and down (as you're referencing dynamic changes) would minimize changes in toe under load compared to a softer (stock) setup. I'm running 550 lbs in the front of my CRX and I'm sure my toe changes very little under load. I'll assume in this case that the "lower" suspension we're talking about isn't as stiff as mine but it's stiffer than stock (or it's a design just asking to bottom out). If that's the case, dynamic toe changes are even less of an issue. And while the angles are changed at this lower position, the way the arms move in relation to one another doesn't fundamentally change, so the same theory applies that a 0 toe setting should all but correct the changes in alignment from adding the lowering springs.
-travis, who admits he subscribes to your "fix it and pray" theory with most things.
when manufacturers give you a spec for static toe, they're taking into account road force and dynamic toe changes. just because someone zeros their toe doesnt mean that toe-related tire wear will be eliminated - especially if the vehicle ride height has been changed...
so like he said, go ahead and zero it and hope you luck out. if it works out, great! if it doesnt, then he'll have to find another way around it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It strikes me that with a suspension that gives you less total movement up and down (as you're referencing dynamic changes) would minimize changes in toe under load compared to a softer (stock) setup. I'm running 550 lbs in the front of my CRX and I'm sure my toe changes very little under load. I'll assume in this case that the "lower" suspension we're talking about isn't as stiff as mine but it's stiffer than stock (or it's a design just asking to bottom out). If that's the case, dynamic toe changes are even less of an issue. And while the angles are changed at this lower position, the way the arms move in relation to one another doesn't fundamentally change, so the same theory applies that a 0 toe setting should all but correct the changes in alignment from adding the lowering springs.
-travis, who admits he subscribes to your "fix it and pray" theory with most things.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um but it doesnt. that may hold true if the stock ride-height setting is 0 total, but now that the car is lowered, compensation for dynamic toe change is out the window.
when manufacturers give you a spec for static toe, they're taking into account road force and dynamic toe changes. just because someone zeros their toe doesnt mean that toe-related tire wear will be eliminated - especially if the vehicle ride height has been changed...
so like he said, go ahead and zero it and hope you luck out. if it works out, great! if it doesnt, then he'll have to find another way around it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not driving corrects your tyre wear completely, incorrect toe settings is the major cause of uneven tyre wear.
stan
when manufacturers give you a spec for static toe, they're taking into account road force and dynamic toe changes. just because someone zeros their toe doesnt mean that toe-related tire wear will be eliminated - especially if the vehicle ride height has been changed...
so like he said, go ahead and zero it and hope you luck out. if it works out, great! if it doesnt, then he'll have to find another way around it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not driving corrects your tyre wear completely, incorrect toe settings is the major cause of uneven tyre wear.
stan
you're right, less travel generally suggests less dynamic effect...
depending on the arc of the suspension during jounce/rebound than dynamic effect isnt always linear.
either way, zero-ing toe wont always solve your problems. if it does, then all the merrier. wouldnt surprise me if it did!
depending on the arc of the suspension during jounce/rebound than dynamic effect isnt always linear.
either way, zero-ing toe wont always solve your problems. if it does, then all the merrier. wouldnt surprise me if it did!
are j00 seriously arguing that dynamic toe changes have a large effect on tire wear? LOL....it's not the case on a race car, and it's not the case for a street driven vehicle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are j00 seriously arguing that dynamic toe changes have a large effect on tire wear? LOL....it's not the case on a race car, and it's not the case for a street driven vehicle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
j00 don't know what you're talking about either. Dynamic toe changes own j00:
j00 don't know what you're talking about either. Dynamic toe changes own j00:
toe creates feathering on the tire- if you lower your car, you increase toe in. this means if you run your hand over the tire front to back you will feel steps in the tread blocks (dont know how else to explain it). if the toe is corrected then this will not occur. now that you have the toe corrected you will STILL have camber wear with a lowered car. this means you will have alot more wear on the inside of your tire. noone can say this deosnt happen. on my stock gsr i had noticeable camber wear. if the car is lowered at all the camber should be adjusted, as close to factory specs as possible. unless this is a race car in which you want negative camber to keep a flatter contact patch when cornering. but on a daily driven car it is stupid to go trough tires twice as often. just invest in a camber kit and you will save the money in tires in the future.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonjdmdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if you lower your car, you increase toe in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lowering the typical Honda suspension will increase toe out, not toe in.
Lowering the typical Honda suspension will increase toe out, not toe in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonjdmdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this means if you run your hand over the tire front to back you will feel steps in the tread blocks...</TD></TR></TABLE>
rub front to back and feel for steps...got it!


rub front to back and feel for steps...got it!



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRPIMPIN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, car is lowered. But my question was "does setting toe to zero correct tire wear?" I thought about getting a camber kit but am thinking otherwise due to conflicting ideas. I mean it makes sense to zero out the toe to correct tire wear, but how many people have actually done this instead of purchasing a camber kit?
Thanks for your info
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, it cannot "correct tire wear." Once the tire is worn no alignment can undo the damage :-) But that's not what you mean.
Uneven tire wear is greatly increased when you have negative camber and toe (in or out). If you set the toe to zero you will reduce uneven wear considerably but you will not eliminate it entirely.
Thanks for your info
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, it cannot "correct tire wear." Once the tire is worn no alignment can undo the damage :-) But that's not what you mean.
Uneven tire wear is greatly increased when you have negative camber and toe (in or out). If you set the toe to zero you will reduce uneven wear considerably but you will not eliminate it entirely.



