Springs-H&R Lowering Springs Sport Kit. 1.9 drop front and 1.8 rear.
Strut-Koni Adjustables. Yellow if that helps
89 Crx Dx

Promblem-The front is slammed. It tucks 14's really bad. The rear sits higher than it did when it had the ebay coilovers the came with the car.

I installed the springs correctly, just like I've done before. I've been told I might have put them in upside down, but I put the letters up like the paper said. Yes, I have the fronts on the front and rears on the rear.


If you have any idea what might be going on please let me know. I need to drive my car again without this horrible stance.

Jake

 

honestly, ive heard that either H&R or neuspeed springs had the springs marked wrong, front and back.

id try swapping them. itll be a lot easier this time at least.

 

I guess it won't kill me to try. If it works someone in customer service is getting bitched out.


I want to get new struts because i think one of my yellows is blown. What strut would be a good match with these springs?

 

if you were using cheap ebay coilovers with those yellows, its possible you could have run too low and blown the shocks. but i doubt it. the quality of the yellows is pretty good. what kind of sign makes you think one is blown?

anyway, i always recommend illuminas.

btw, did you preload the suspension before tightening the bushings?

and can you take some pics of the springs. it would help for reference.

 

Well I bought the car with the yellows and coilovers on it. I hated the ride quailty and stance so I bought H&R's.

And I was messing with adjusting the top when I first got it and the pass front has noticable settings but the driver just spins and spins. Also, when I hit bumps on the driver side it jars a lot harder than the passenger side.

I put the springs on the car and set it on the ground to tighten the bushings up top if thats what you mean by pre-loading them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J4k3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I put the springs on the car and set it on the ground to tighten the bushings up top if thats what you mean by pre-loading them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope. you need to do it with all the bushings.

the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.

if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.

to reset your bushings, put the car on 4 jackstands. take the wheels off. loosen the suspension bolts. put a jack under one of the suspension corners and raise it until that corner is off the jack stand. bounce the car a bit. then tighten. dont forget to tighten a bolt youve already loosened.

ignore the trailing arm bushing and upper arm, inner bushing. theyre not resettable because of the "dogbone" design. youd have to press the bushing out and reclock it.

see, its in the helms manual. its not just my instructions, but nobody before me (that i ever heard) ever pointed this out. in the case in the helms, it only assumes youre putting in the same spring, so ride height doesnt change. because ride height changes when you put different springs on, you need to do ALL the affected bushings.

 

Other than possibly messing up my bushings, that wouldn't effect the ride height would it?

 

yeah, it could. since the bushings are stretching from being locked in the extended position.

but not as dramatically as you have described.

just make sure to do it right the next time around.

 

Alright thanks. I just saw a note on the install directions on the HandR website saying to leave the bumpstop on the strut. The guy who installed the struts before I bought it never put the bump stops on in the first place. HandR says to cut the bumpstop for a greater drop. If I have no bumpstop would that cause it to sit so low in the front? It makes sense but it still doesn't explain the ride height being high in the rear. I'll attach a pic of the car from the side to see.

 

bumpstops are not going to make a difference in ride height.

switch the damn springs already.

 

HAHA it's 9 30 and I have work at 7am, I'm not working crap. Thanks for the help though. I'll switch them tomorrow at work if they let me, having a lift and air tools owns jack stands. Thanks for all the help though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bumpstops are not going to make a difference in ride height.

switch the damn springs already.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless the springs were designed to use the stock bumpstop as an integral part of the rate. In that case, cutting or removing them will drop the car further, with removal almost guaranteeing frequent bottoming.

While I would refuse to ever install springs designed to use the bumpstops like that, I don't think it would be all that terrible of a design for a street setup.

Perhaps these springs weren't designed that way, but it would explain the height if they were.