The motor has about 1 hour total time, (stationary) on it, so this is by no means an indication of reliability. It idles away smoothly at operating temp, and revs smoothly in neutral

The situation that lead to this setup in the first place is rather unique, and although I suspect that no one will be in exactly the same situation, I thought I would pass some info along to anyone with an F-series block who was thinking about doing this.

The car's role is simply to be a daily driver, so power isn't a big priority.

Car: 1992 automatic SI with a lot of miles, purchased with a broken timing belt (very cheap ) The motor that was in the car when I got it was a JDM DOHC F22B, that the previous owner had swapped in. Upon removing the head, I discovered several bent valves. I had a bare H23 head, so thats what started this project in the first place.

so here are the basic components:

BLOCK: F22B
HEAD: H23A1
CAMS & CAM GEARS: F22B
CRANK TIMING GEAR: F22B
WATER PUMP: F22B
INTAKE MANIFOLD: F22B (H23 is identical... I used a H23 gasket)
HEAD GASKET: UNMODIFIED H23A1
TIMING BELT: B18C5 () (yes, ITR, thats not a typo)
BALANCE SHAFT BELT: removed
SPARK PLUGS: H23A1, gapped to H23A1 specs
EXHAUST GASKET: H23A1


Previously, there was a mention that the brass ring on the headgasket on the passenger side had to be cut off, because it would be caught between the had & the block. I am not sure about the H22 head, but this is not the case for the H23 head. The ring sits under the heater hose port on the head, and its under the head to the point that you can't see it, but the casting of the head in that spot is raised enough so that it does not interfere with anything.

The Integra type R timing belt came as a suggestion from some other forum I found. The original belt I used that came as a reccomendation from a shop simply would not let the crank be anywhere near TDC when the cams were - it was exactly 1/2 a tooth off. The Type R belt fit well, and everything seemed to line up about as close I could ask for. It wasn't perfect, but darn close.

I am not familiar with the F series block, but it appears that the ECT sensor is located in a different spot. The F-series has it down on the back of the block, whereas the H23 has it up on the head under the distributor. I would suspect you could use either, depending on your wiring harness. Given that this car had a H23 at one time, the harness was made to fit the head-mounted ECT.

The knock sensor port on the back of the H-block is used as the oil pressure sensor port on the F-series. The previous owner had installed the oil pressure sensor in the normal H-series spot on the F22B, under the filter, which seems to work also. I don't remember if the H-series knock sensor port has oil flowing through it or not... if not, then you just have to plug it. If so, then there is a spot you can put your knock sensor. My block currently has what looks like a knock sensor, albeit unused, plugging up that oil passage. I'll have to figure out something to do with that, as the H23 ECU would like to see a working knock sensor.

I haven't looked to see what ECU is in the car. The car doesn't have a CEL, but the CEL doesn't turn on at all, even when you first turn the key, so the F22B swap seems like it was probably a shaddy deal to begin with. I'll have to look into that more.

The oil and coolant passages all line up for the most part, but most are shaped differently - especially the oil drain passage closest to the power steering pump. Oil drains from the head rather well however, and there doesn't seem to be any spot where it will pool up excessively in the head.

The missing balance shaft belt seems to create a very low frequency vibration, but it is not very bad at all, and seems comparable to urethane motor mounts. It makes the motor rock slightly in its mounts at the same rate, but again its nothing that anyone who is serious about making power would care about. (I however, just left it off out because I was too lazy to align the rear balance shaft )

This is by no means a write up on how to do the swap, or what the hazards involved might be, but I thought I would share the info in the hopes that some bit will be the last piece in someone's puzzle.

I will provide an update after I get a chance to put the car through its paces.

 

beautiful! congrats.

can you provide a total cost breakdown perhaps?

 

well, the head was left over from another motor.

I spent about $220 on misc stuff - belts, gaskets, etc.

 

Beat me to it.

 

Damn, NICE!!

So the Type R belt is the one to use, huh. That's cool info to know.

 

what is the difference between the f22b head and h23 head??? i thought the f22b was basically the jdm version of the h23 but obviously a little less displacement im assuming from crank/rods, but having the same block/head

 

on an unrelated note, autozone plug wires are about 5 feet long

 

I dunno about the CEL man, I'm guessing previous owner must've taken out the bulb.. Because I have a jdm f22b, and I get cel after I hit 3rd gear, my mechanic says its not throwing off any codes.. I've been too busy to check for myself, but my mechanic is far from shady and I trust his shops ability...

And if he coulnd't get the CEL off, I doubt they could.

 

the F22 has the same stroke as an H23, but a smaller bore.

So the head has a bigger bore then the block, which could be bad I guess? I think you'd run into trouble if you used the F22 headgasket

the ports look the same, but the oil passages are different shapes.

a H23 head onto a JDM DOHC F22B would be a pointless swap if the F22 head was still good. This information is more helpful to the single cammers looking formore flow in the head, either for a turbo or N/A application.

edit: or, for that matter, an H-series guy who wants cheap iron/steel/whatever they are sleeves

 

sweet man. I love to here about these kinds of projects going well

 

Damn this sounds sweet. Congratulations. Do you plan on getting it tuned or is it just a cheap beater that gets you from A to B? Did you take any pics?

Are the F22B cams the same as the H23? I have never seen the F22B up close.

I have an F23 block/H23 head engine that is all but ready to go into my car. I hate having to wait on parts :thumbsdown:

Pirate

 

what's the stamp 0n the f22b pist0ns?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The car's role is simply to be a daily driver, so power isn't a big priority.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

BOOOOO!!!!! turbo that bish

nice info, can't beat that price

 

this car will be my sole mode of transportation, so it will stay stock for now. When I obtain a new daily driver, hopefully a truck, this car will get the auto tranny & this whole engine yanked out in favor of a stock H22 w/ a 5-speed for Honda Challenge & IT duty

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn this sounds sweet. Congratulations. Do you plan on getting it tuned or is it just a cheap beater that gets you from A to B? Did you take any pics?

Are the F22B cams the same as the H23? I have never seen the F22B up close.

I have an F23 block/H23 head engine that is all but ready to go into my car. I hate having to wait on parts :thumbsdown:

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
just a to & from car...no pics, sorry

I wouldn't be suprized if the cams have a slightly different profile. They fit the H23 head though.

 

what head bolts did you use and the torque spec for swap?

 

Good work!

If you know, would the ITR timing belt work on a an H23, seeing as how similar it is to the F22B??

 

Wow, the ITR belt worked! Weird

Congrats bud, let us know how it runs when you get it out on the street!

 

Ths thread is almost 8 months old.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ths thread is almost 8 months old. </TD></TR></TABLE>

:looks up at Cardigit's profile:

:shakes head:

Silly n00bs...

 

i know it 8 months old but i dont have these info so just try my luck. you never know he might have these stuff written down somewhere. by the way, if you dont have the answer to my question then get lost.

 

The F23 is built stronger too so with the h23 head you got a 2.3l beast if you turbo charge it. I Believe the F23s are good for 10psi-12psi of boost stock. I would definitely recommend boosting that bitch.


Modified by h23sleeper at 6:35 AM 5/22/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h23sleeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The F23 is built stronger too</TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong x 4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Innovation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong x 4</TD></TR></TABLE>

squared

what an idiot

 

you prob already knew this but

the jdm f22b bottom end is identical to the f22a.

i have a spare f22b block sitting in my garage, just incase my h22a takes a ****. nice little project.

i would deafintly check the CEL light bulb, mine went off left and right when i didnt have a Ks installed running the p14.

i jimmied my ks on the front of the head, cause i had no PS and it worked just great.