enclosure in spare tire well..
does anyone have a custom sub enclosure in their spare tire well? i have an EG hatch and want to make my own floor box. i want to go with the power acoustik 12'' sub.. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ol...oduct
reason being i just got a job at best buy and this is the best they sell. besides the one model above this..for $250. anyway, i wanted to mount it where the spare tire goes along with the amp and maybe capacitor. has anyone done this? links? pointers?
thanks!
reason being i just got a job at best buy and this is the best they sell. besides the one model above this..for $250. anyway, i wanted to mount it where the spare tire goes along with the amp and maybe capacitor. has anyone done this? links? pointers?
thanks!
Post of pic of your hatch, because its different from my itr. It's a pain in the *** to do it...you have to glass it, 1/2 mdf board, resin, sandpaper, and other fun stuff. Steps you'll sand, sand some more, and when you think you are done, you'll sand some more.
You'll need a gallon of glass, 20 bucks, mdf board, 20 bucks, and some other **** as well. 200 grit sand paper, as well as 80 to take alot of if you screw up. 1" dry walls for the top, jig saw, and carpet as well as trim tack. 3m spray adhesive works as well. Cheap paintbrushes as well!
I suggest getting dynamat for the base to cover the spare tire well.
Steps: YAY!
1. Using dynamat cover the floor of the tire well.
2. Using glass and resin with paintbrushes, start coating the bottom of the box.
3. Once it dries, apply another layer of glass.
4. You'll want approx. 1/2" of glass
5. Cut your 1/2" mdf board for the top of the box. Sand, Sand, Sand.
6. Cut your holes out for your subs.
7. ensure proper fitment of the board.
8. Lay your carpet down, use trim tack and let the top dry.
9. Use 1" dry walls and screw down the top of the box.
10. Mount the subs.
11. Run wires and mount the amp and cap whereever.
12. Tune!
A voila! You have a custom box in your tire well.
**Note** Takes about a day to do the work as well as about $100 for supplies
**Sidenote** No sniffing the glass!
Good luck with the project!
Modified by itr_dc2 at 2:47 PM 9/22/2004
You'll need a gallon of glass, 20 bucks, mdf board, 20 bucks, and some other **** as well. 200 grit sand paper, as well as 80 to take alot of if you screw up. 1" dry walls for the top, jig saw, and carpet as well as trim tack. 3m spray adhesive works as well. Cheap paintbrushes as well!
I suggest getting dynamat for the base to cover the spare tire well.
Steps: YAY!
1. Using dynamat cover the floor of the tire well.
2. Using glass and resin with paintbrushes, start coating the bottom of the box.
3. Once it dries, apply another layer of glass.
4. You'll want approx. 1/2" of glass
5. Cut your 1/2" mdf board for the top of the box. Sand, Sand, Sand.
6. Cut your holes out for your subs.
7. ensure proper fitment of the board.
8. Lay your carpet down, use trim tack and let the top dry.
9. Use 1" dry walls and screw down the top of the box.
10. Mount the subs.
11. Run wires and mount the amp and cap whereever.
12. Tune!
A voila! You have a custom box in your tire well.
**Note** Takes about a day to do the work as well as about $100 for supplies
**Sidenote** No sniffing the glass!
Good luck with the project!
Modified by itr_dc2 at 2:47 PM 9/22/2004
i cant just make a box out of mdf, stick the subs in, and call it a day? i was still going to have the trunk mat covering it so i could use the space back there. like itd look like i didnt have a system, but its just kinda hidden. i dont really want anything fancy, just something that looks clean.
thanks!
thanks!
To make the bottom of the box you almost have to glass the bottom. You can try to build the bottom out of MDf, BUt it might not sit flush. I seriously would glass the bottom and make the top 1/2" mdf. Cut it perfect to fit your trunk, throw carpet on it and voila! That'll look mad clean. Look at the FS: 94+ false floor thread in this forum. That's clean. Pretty much thats what you want.
I would NOT do it this way
1. Using dynamat cover the floor of the tire well -- this step is optional - you don't need to dynamat the spare tire well
2. Using glass and resin with paintbrushes, start coating the bottom of the box. You forgot something - it's called masking! Unless you want the box to be permanently attached to the car, you should mask it off
3. Once it dries, apply another layer of glass.You don't have to wait for it to cure to add multiple layers - you are only really limited by how fast the resin kicks
4. You'll want approx. 1-2" of glass 1 to 2 INCHES of glass - are you insane! You can build a box as strong as an mdf one out of 1/4" to 3/8" of glass with proper prep. I hope you meant 1/2", but even that can generally be considered over kill
4. Sand, Sand, Sand! Why sand - there's no reason to sand - you are suggesting an MDF baffle
5. Cut your 1/2" mdf board for the top of the box. 1/2" is going to be too thin for most subs, I'd use 3/4
6. Cut your holes out for your subs.
7. ensure proper fitment of the board.
8. Lay your carpet down, use trim tack and let the top dry. why carpet first, now the screws will show...
9. Use 1" dry walls and screw down the top of the box.what are you attaching these screws to....very confused at this point
10. Mount the subs.
11. Run wires and mount the amp and cap whereever.
12. Tune!
I would allocate at least a full weekend to this. before you ever pull a mold from a car, you should let it cure overnight to ensure no warping.
If you want a small writeup, go to http://www.sounddomain.com/id/rcurley and go to the last page or so, I showed one in a Civic Si where I kept the spare tire and got two subs in there.
1. Using dynamat cover the floor of the tire well -- this step is optional - you don't need to dynamat the spare tire well
2. Using glass and resin with paintbrushes, start coating the bottom of the box. You forgot something - it's called masking! Unless you want the box to be permanently attached to the car, you should mask it off
3. Once it dries, apply another layer of glass.You don't have to wait for it to cure to add multiple layers - you are only really limited by how fast the resin kicks
4. You'll want approx. 1-2" of glass 1 to 2 INCHES of glass - are you insane! You can build a box as strong as an mdf one out of 1/4" to 3/8" of glass with proper prep. I hope you meant 1/2", but even that can generally be considered over kill
4. Sand, Sand, Sand! Why sand - there's no reason to sand - you are suggesting an MDF baffle
5. Cut your 1/2" mdf board for the top of the box. 1/2" is going to be too thin for most subs, I'd use 3/4
6. Cut your holes out for your subs.
7. ensure proper fitment of the board.
8. Lay your carpet down, use trim tack and let the top dry. why carpet first, now the screws will show...
9. Use 1" dry walls and screw down the top of the box.what are you attaching these screws to....very confused at this point
10. Mount the subs.
11. Run wires and mount the amp and cap whereever.
12. Tune!
I would allocate at least a full weekend to this. before you ever pull a mold from a car, you should let it cure overnight to ensure no warping.
If you want a small writeup, go to http://www.sounddomain.com/id/rcurley and go to the last page or so, I showed one in a Civic Si where I kept the spare tire and got two subs in there.
Okay, edited some of the post due to me being in a rush this morning.
And the only reason for me to use, 1/2 mdf is so the board will sit flush, under neath the side panels.
And the only reason for me to use, 1/2 mdf is so the board will sit flush, under neath the side panels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, edited some of the post due to me being in a rush this morning.
And the only reason for me to use, 1/2 mdf is so the board will sit flush, under neath the side panels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but I still don't get it - what are you sanding so much?
and how are you attaching the baffle to the mold....it still makes no sense...
And the only reason for me to use, 1/2 mdf is so the board will sit flush, under neath the side panels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but I still don't get it - what are you sanding so much?
and how are you attaching the baffle to the mold....it still makes no sense...
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