91 dx still wont start, any and all feedback needed
ok, gotta 91 civic dx that wont start. its got good spark, new cap and rotor. its got fuel, pressure tests at 40psi, and the injectors are spraying. checked the timing belt, and everything lines up properly. gave it a shot of ether in the intake and it wont even try to start on that. It gets really close to starting, it turns over if you pump the gas. it just wont take hold and start. it gets really close.
It died 2 sundays ago, it started fine and ran for a few seconds, then just shut off, like you turned the key off. the ECU doesn't flash a code. it flashes real quick when the key gets turned to "on" but my working 91 CRX SI does the same. i have a replacement ecu coming but i really doubt thats it. this is my girlfriends car to get to and form school, some come winter (in wisconsin) shes gonna be pretty cold if it wont run and we can't afford to replace it.
im out of ideas, someone here has to be able to think fo something.
It died 2 sundays ago, it started fine and ran for a few seconds, then just shut off, like you turned the key off. the ECU doesn't flash a code. it flashes real quick when the key gets turned to "on" but my working 91 CRX SI does the same. i have a replacement ecu coming but i really doubt thats it. this is my girlfriends car to get to and form school, some come winter (in wisconsin) shes gonna be pretty cold if it wont run and we can't afford to replace it.
im out of ideas, someone here has to be able to think fo something.
my first guess would've been that the rotor fell off. But, have you checked all of your grounds? the tranny, valve cover, and thermostat grounds are the ones to check.
so does it get closer to starting when you pump the gas? that leads me to believe it could still be a fuel problem...maybe one injector is malfunctioning (the car only has 2).
so does it get closer to starting when you pump the gas? that leads me to believe it could still be a fuel problem...maybe one injector is malfunctioning (the car only has 2).
the old rotor was still attached and the new one is too.
will it start with only one injector? I can see the main injector spray when you try to start it, but not the Aux, though its hard to see down there. i gave it some starting fluid into the intake and it didnt try to start on that. but i could swap the injectors.
will it start with only one injector? I can see the main injector spray when you try to start it, but not the Aux, though its hard to see down there. i gave it some starting fluid into the intake and it didnt try to start on that. but i could swap the injectors.
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From: I told you to wait in the truck in Texas, United States
What do the spark plugs look like? are they fresh or old?
Next I would check the compression..
Next I would check the compression..
new plugs and wires, and cap and rotor and its got proper compression. i forgot a few things that i've done, i'll list them as we go when you guys remind me.
One other possibility that you may be over looking.
The ignition switch electrical part sometimes takes a dump and does alot of the things you describe. The car will "start", but as soon as you let off the key it quits. Check your key switch by watching the dash lights (oil pressure PGM-FI etc) as you crank if they are coming on and then flashing on and off as you crank and then are not on when the car doesn't run then you need the electrical portion of your ignition switch. It's held on with two little screws into the back side of the key switch.
The ignition switch electrical part sometimes takes a dump and does alot of the things you describe. The car will "start", but as soon as you let off the key it quits. Check your key switch by watching the dash lights (oil pressure PGM-FI etc) as you crank if they are coming on and then flashing on and off as you crank and then are not on when the car doesn't run then you need the electrical portion of your ignition switch. It's held on with two little screws into the back side of the key switch.
the lights on the dash dont flash when trying to start it. im really at a loss.
im pretty certain some wire, or relay or electronic thing is not working right. can anyone think of any ones i can check? as i said before, it gets fuel, and spark, the timing is right and its got good compression.
im pretty certain some wire, or relay or electronic thing is not working right. can anyone think of any ones i can check? as i said before, it gets fuel, and spark, the timing is right and its got good compression.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked all of your grounds? the tranny, valve cover, and thermostat grounds are the ones to check.</TD></TR></TABLE>
check the grounds yet?
when you put the key in, and turn it to on, the check engine light should flash on for about 2 seconds and then go away. Does it stay on (and not go away)?
check the grounds yet?
when you put the key in, and turn it to on, the check engine light should flash on for about 2 seconds and then go away. Does it stay on (and not go away)?
i cant find the location of the thermostat ground. but the other two are connected.
the check engine light, and the other dash lights behave normally when you turn the key to "on" .
the check engine light, and the other dash lights behave normally when you turn the key to "on" .
well from what it sounds like is the ecu took a dump i mean you have all of the other components working that almost has to be it , but make sure all of the grounds are connected, if they aren't you will be sorry and you will fry another ecu so let us know with the new ecu
Not mentioned.. checked ALL the fuses ?
also, you said "it's got good spark, new cap and rotor"
are u assuming the spark is fine cuz u got those two new items.. cuz the ignitor or coil could have taken a dump.
or did u actually see spark fly out of a plug?
also, you said "it's got good spark, new cap and rotor"
are u assuming the spark is fine cuz u got those two new items.. cuz the ignitor or coil could have taken a dump.
or did u actually see spark fly out of a plug?
all fuses are good. i checked the spark by removing the wire and plug and putting the plug into its corresponding wire then starting the motor. all 4 sparks are bright blue-white clear as day during the day.
all right, heres what i got today. im pretty sure the computer is giving the engine too much fuel and wetting down the compression.
shooting some oil in the cylinders lets the car start. but after the oil burns off. it stops again.
shooting some oil in the cylinders lets the car start. but after the oil burns off. it stops again.
ill put 20 bucks on the ignitor bieng the issue.
In you distributer you will have and electrical piece in the main housing or your dizzy. Replace that piece and I bet it will start. You will be better off going to a junk yard for that piece get origional honda ignitors. Autozone ones suck. I had that happen to me twice and both times it was the ignitor.
In you distributer you will have and electrical piece in the main housing or your dizzy. Replace that piece and I bet it will start. You will be better off going to a junk yard for that piece get origional honda ignitors. Autozone ones suck. I had that happen to me twice and both times it was the ignitor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crakadic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill put 20 bucks on the ignitor bieng the issue.
In you distributer you will have and electrical piece in the main housing or your dizzy. Replace that piece and I bet it will start. You will be better off going to a junk yard for that piece get origional honda ignitors. Autozone ones suck. I had that happen to me twice and both times it was the ignitor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if it was the ignitor I don't think he can get spark through the wires and out of the plugs
In you distributer you will have and electrical piece in the main housing or your dizzy. Replace that piece and I bet it will start. You will be better off going to a junk yard for that piece get origional honda ignitors. Autozone ones suck. I had that happen to me twice and both times it was the ignitor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if it was the ignitor I don't think he can get spark through the wires and out of the plugs
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crakadic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes he sure can. Thats what got me it took me 1 day to figure out theat it was the ignitor. I was still sparking but would keep the engine going</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm... if thats the case then for sure check the ignitor. BTW Honda had a factory recall on the ignitors for Civics/CRX's 88-91
hmm... if thats the case then for sure check the ignitor. BTW Honda had a factory recall on the ignitors for Civics/CRX's 88-91
on the subject of ignitors: already swapped it with a working one. thats not it. now i believe you said something about betting $20?
i've been told the a faulty, or malfunctioning coolant temp sensor will cause my problem. the ecu thinks the engine is cold so it tries to fast idle, but over does it and floods the engine. anyone else hear anythign about this? i'd like to be more sure before i i run out and get one or something.
i've been told the a faulty, or malfunctioning coolant temp sensor will cause my problem. the ecu thinks the engine is cold so it tries to fast idle, but over does it and floods the engine. anyone else hear anythign about this? i'd like to be more sure before i i run out and get one or something.
Hey dood, I don't mean to rob your thread, but I'm haveing the same kinda problem. I did all the troubleshooting you did. My injectors just aren't squirting.
If anyone has any ideas please let me/us know https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003218
TIA
If anyone has any ideas please let me/us know https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003218
TIA
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