I installed a b16a into my 1990 crx where my dc header only comes with one spot for the o2 sensor. What do I with the second sensor

 

lots of people make the 2 sensors into one sensor, but the correct way to do it is to put a second o2 bung into the header.

 

i believe that autometer makes a O2 bung. all you need to do is drill a hole in the downpipe of the header and the bung can be welded on. i couldn't find it on their website but i sent them an e-mail for the part# and price so if you want to im me on sat. i should have an answer for you

 

most exhaust muffler shops can do this for you.

 

thanks

 

i tried two o2 sensors into one but the car runs way to rich

 

 

How bout only use 1 o2 sensor and jump it at the ECU.

Mine seems to be ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How bout only use 1 o2 sensor and jump it at the ECU.

Mine seems to be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just love when people include proven theories

 

i already have one o2 bung on the bottom of the header does it matter where i put the other one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoshDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i just love when people include proven theories </TD></TR></TABLE>

How about this for proven: I only have one O2 sensor hooked up. I didn't get a bung welder for the second one. I didn't splice it to both O2 connectors and I didn't jump it at the ECU. My car runs and is quite fast.

In the interest of helping people and not my argument I will disclose this. I have only one problem with my car. The idle bounces. Not constantly. It will stay at say 800 where it should be. Then jump up to 1300 or so and stay there. Then it will drop back down. I believe this is to do with the vacuum hoses though. As I was in a hurry and never really paid attention to hook them up right.

So maybe the idle issue is due to the O2 sensor, but I doubt it. Either way the car has run very reliablely and been quite fast for the first 5000 miles I've put on it so far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FairlightRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How about this for proven: I only have one O2 sensor hooked up. I didn't get a bung welder for the second one. I didn't splice it to both O2 connectors and I didn't jump it at the ECU. My car runs and is quite fast.

In the interest of helping people and not my argument I will disclose this. I have only one problem with my car. The idle bounces. Not constantly. It will stay at say 800 where it should be. Then jump up to 1300 or so and stay there. Then it will drop back down. I believe this is to do with the vacuum hoses though. As I was in a hurry and never really paid attention to hook them up right.

So maybe the idle issue is due to the O2 sensor, but I doubt it. Either way the car has run very reliablely and been quite fast for the first 5000 miles I've put on it so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry to burst your bubble, but if you only hook up one o2 sensor than 2 cylinders will be running rich, and the other 2 will run LEAN which we all know is NOT good. sorry , but your car may be feeling fast and great, but it could feel a lot better if you would take the time and investigate how an o2 system works in conjunction with your fuel. i'm not trying to sound like an ***. i just hate it when people post i've heard, i think, or it seems. thats what i was trying to imply. i didn't want it to start a battle of wits. but i win.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoshDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i just love when people include proven theories </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is proven that my car runs good with no codes. Not sure
if it affects air/fuel though.

 

It looks like you intalled two o2 sensor bungs what did you do with the existing one on the header? and i did try hooking both o2 sensors into one the and the engine loads up and runs way to rich. I disconected the one i wired in and just ran off the one o2 sensor it runs better but then throws an o2 sensor code.

 

just got an e-mail back from autometer and the part# for the o2 bung is 2260 it costs $6.00. if you have questions e-mail ryan davenport at autometer his e-mail is ryan_davenport@autometer.com

 

I only have 1 o2 and it runs good , emissions are fucked though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is proven that my car runs good with no codes. Not sure
if it affects air/fuel though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

again, how is it proven? just because it has no codes doesn't mean it is running at optimum stoich. i haven't met one technician that says just because it runs good its proven. of course you see now that it just runs good. earlier it ran great. i guess the only thing proven is that sleepster is an idiot. its ok he'll learn a lot on this forum.

 

any exhaust shop should be able to do this. and PLUG the bung near the back of the collector.

the ecu uses 1 o2 sensor to adjust the a/f ratio for the pair of cyl it flows.

1 o2 for 1 & 4.
1 o2 for 2 & 3.

this is the way the pr3 and pw0 ecu's are designed to work. if u do it another way ur milage will decrease and u may experience some weird flat spots on part throttle / cruising.



Modified by crx_88_si at 2:50 PM 9/17/2004

 

Again, does it matter where i put it? should i block off the bung at the bottom and put two new bungs in around the same place as on the stock manifold??????

 

Thanks for you help everyone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoshDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

again, how is it proven? just because it has no codes doesn't mean it is running at optimum stoich. i haven't met one technician that says just because it runs good its proven. of course you see now that it just runs good. earlier it ran great. i guess the only thing proven is that sleepster is an idiot. its ok he'll learn a lot on this forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Josh, Kiss my ***.......LoL.... It is proven that it works but I didnt say its the
right way... STFU IDIOT its just a alternative Just giving him options
rather than having to weld on a bung.

And yes, I will learn alot from these forums


Modified by sleepster at 11:04 AM 9/17/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any exhaust shop should be able to do this. and PLUG the bung near the back of the collector.

the ecu uses 1 o2 sensor to adjust the a/f ratio for the pair of cyl it flows.

1 o2 for 1 $ 4.
1 o2 for 2 $ 3.

this is the way the pr3 and pw0 ecu's are designed to work. if u do it another way ur milage will decrease and u may experience some weird flat spots on part throttle / cruising.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good explanation / Good to know.....

 

i was running one o2 sensor for about a year and my car kept running like ****, couldn't figure out why, so i went on ebay, bought a $79 header and took it to the local machine shop and had to o2 bungs welded into the header, and that was only $60, looks exactly like the one listed above, but it was the best damn $130 i've spent on my car in a while, runs 100x better now......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoshDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry to burst your bubble, but if you only hook up one o2 sensor than 2 cylinders will be running rich, and the other 2 will run LEAN which we all know is NOT good. sorry , but your car may be feeling fast and great, but it could feel a lot better if you would take the time and investigate how an o2 system works in conjunction with your fuel. i'm not trying to sound like an ***. i just hate it when people post i've heard, i think, or it seems. thats what i was trying to imply. i didn't want it to start a battle of wits. but i win. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well having two O2s doesn't do **** when you have a 4-1 header. What good is two sensors sitting right next to each other, reading the same reading in the collector? You could weld two bungs further up the header but each O2 sensor would only be reading one cyclinder. That would end up being worse.

It is not unusual to have a 4-1 header. In fact all turbo manifolds would only use one O2 because all the cyclinder pipes merge just before the turbo. There is usually no spot where they will do a nice 4-2-1 to facilitate 2 O2s.

Either way my car runs fine with a DC 4-1 and one O2 (with no jumping for the secondary O2 input on the ECU). No codes and it is running fine. Except for my idle problem due to faulty vacuum hoses. Though my next step is to hookup an A/F guage just to make sure I'm running at the proper stoich.

 

do you have a chipped ecu, cuz i know that if you have a chipped ecu, you don't need a 2nd 02 sensor and your car will run fine...