Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

1994 Accord EX Brake job

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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 08:33 PM
  #1  
roy_collins@hotmail.com's Avatar
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From: Monroe, CT
Default 1994 Accord EX Brake job

I need to do a brake job on a 1994 Accord. I will be replacing all four brake rotors.
Do I need any special tools to remove the rotors? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 09:48 PM
  #2  
94cd7's Avatar
 
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From: gilbert, az, USA
Default Re: 1994 Accord EX Brake job (roy_collins@hotmail.com)

you will need a special tool to take off the back rotors if they are loost enough you can use a big screwdriver but you might need to get a screwdriver that you hit with a hammer to make it turn so you dont strip them plus you will need this to tighten them back up you do not want to attemtp to do it with a screwdriver and then strip them. you will also need a ball joint seperator and if it has been a while some good penatrating solution. air tools would be a big plus
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 04:01 AM
  #3  
TouringAccord's Avatar
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From: somewhere in MI
Default Re: 1994 Accord EX Brake job (roy_collins@hotmail.com)

The rear rotors are the least of your worries. The front are a major PITA. The fronts are hub-over-rotor. No matter which way you choose you will need to remove the axle nut. I believe it's a 34mm (but double check to be sure). Do this before lifting the car, this way the weight of the car holds it in place while you break those axle nuts loose. One way is to remove the hub/rotor/bearing assembly from the knuckle and then the rotor unbolted from the hub. That is the ideal way to replace them. But if your like most others it won't go that easy. Mine were frozen inside the knuckle and would come out. I ended up taking the knuckle off the car and taking it to a shop where they charged me 25 a side to do everything, well worth it IMO. Or you could use a slide hammer to yank the hub out of the bearing. Then remove the rotor from the hub and replace. Then put the hub back into place and use the axle nut to pull the hub back into the bearing assuming you didn't damage the bearing when removing the hub. Quite a few people have done it the third way but I would prefer to do it the first two ways over the last one I listed. Do a little searching and I'm sure you'll find lots of info on how people of done this.

As for the rear rotors. You need an impact wrench. You put the correct size philips bit into the wrench and place it in the screws that holds the rear rotors on. The you take a mini sledge or regular hammer and hit the wrench. The wrench will break the screw loose. Sometimes it takes a while for the screw to come off. Soaking the screws in PB Blaster will help also. Just make sure you don't strip the screw or you'll be sitting there drilling out the screw. The screws aren't really needed since the wheel holds it all together once it's in place. Some people choose to use them and others don't. I chose to buy some new ones, put some antisieze on the threads and only tightened them in til they held the rotor in place. I did this so the next brake job would be easier. After the screw are removed then the rotor should just come off. If not then you may need to screw some screws into the other holes on the rotor to help push the rotor off the hub.

I didn't explain every step to do the entire job, I just explained how to remove the rotors once you reached that step. Make sure you have a service manual with you so you know what to torque everything back down to. And as I stated earlier, PB Blaster is a great for loosening rusted bolts/screws.

Hope this helped. Have fun
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 11:42 AM
  #4  
brads94accord's Avatar
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From: Kennesaw, GA
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a slide hammer and a two jaw puller are your friends when it come to changing accord rotors. also you are gonna need a 1/2 inch or 3/8 breaker bar. i used a 3/8" to remove my axle nut with an extension. (used the pipe from the floor jack). you need to unstake the axle nut with a punch or screw driver. then it took the breaker bar, then extension and me and a friend of mine to loosen the axle nut. we were both pushing down with all of our weight and it finally broke loose. then use the two jaw puller to seperate your lower ball joint.
cost tally:
two jaw gear puller ($20 from auto parts store) definately a good investment
slide hammer ($20 rental from autozone, and you get your 20 back when you return it.)
36mm axle nut socket. $20
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