Hey guys, I'm working on an equal-length manifold with a longer than usual collector to place my turbo several inches lower than the full-race version. My problem lies in the oil return. It looks as though the outlet for the oil drain on the CHRA will only be about 1" higher (MAYBE) than the oil pan.

I'm trying to think of better ways to do the return. Before i had all -10an fittings and hose - a pretty nice setup but even then I only had about 0.5" of hose showing because the fittings were so close and that was with a max-rev manifold (log).

I was thinking about doing some kind of hardline maybe but I can't really figure it out quite yet and want to see what others think.

Thanks guys

 

With a maxrev manifold you should have a lot more than .5" of hose, so something was wrong. Where was the bung placed?

 

I used -10AN fittings, nothing was wrong, bung was placed at top of pan like its supposed to be. I had the aluminum fitting that bolts to the turbo, then an NPT to AN, then a 45, straight peace of hose, another 45 hose end, then another AN to NPT.

Anyhow thats really not important at this point. I need suggestions for my question about the oil return being level with the oil pan nearly.

thanks!

 

any ideas?

Modify oil pan and pickup to be lower?

Scavenge pump maybe - anyone know of a small one?

 

Just try and make the manifold so it doesn't sit the turbo too low. I'm sure it's not going to be worse than my oil return.

 

The bottom line is, as long as the outlet of the turbo's oil return is above the oil level in the pan, and the line never goes ABOVE the return, it will drain. Just look under your sink for a quick lesson in drain physics.

Matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just try and make the manifold so it doesn't sit the turbo too low. I'm sure it's not going to be worse than my oil return.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
HOLY ****
You havent blown any seals yet? Looks like your line is BELOW you oil level Screw That!! Get a sump

 

there is no way that **** is draining.

besides the fact that its almost parallel to the ground the oil inlet in the pan is right in the middle....which doesnt allow oil to flow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> HOLY ****
You havent blown any seals yet? Looks like your line is BELOW you oil level Screw That!! Get a sump </TD></TR></TABLE>

it only works when he is driving uphill

beerbong should really clock his turbo and set the oil return point on the turbo above the return line like this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnyquest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bottom line is, as long as the outlet of the turbo's oil return is above the oil level in the pan, and the line never goes ABOVE the return, it will drain. Just look under your sink for a quick lesson in drain physics.

Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's correct. Beerbong, purple smoke doesn't come out of your exhaust?

 

Believe it or not my car didn't smoke for the longest time. It does every once in a while now, but I am not too worried about it. I'm sure I am slowly killing my turbo seals though.

 

BBKA's line might be OK, because the G forces (although minimal) should be enough to pull the oil back and into the pan. Oil pressure is usually low when idleing and rises as you accelerate/drive which would increase the G's that would pull the oil back and into the pan.. Just a guess..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it only works when he is driving uphill

beerbong should really clock his turbo and set the oil return point on the turbo above the return line like this

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks guys!

I think beerbong's car is a great example of how mine will be and the idea to clock the turbo might just work actually!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stizzit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks guys!

I think beerbong's car is a great example of how mine will be and the idea to clock the turbo might just work actually!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

clocking the turbo as described in the diagram will cause more damage than running it in the current configuration. if the drain was clocked to the 4 o'clock position as described, the oil would then have a chance to "pool" inside the cart at the 12 o'clock position on shut down. this oil would then boil, breakdown and eventually create a very fine grit, coking up the bearing housing.
hth

 

I'm not sure how you figure it'll pool at the 12 o'clock position?

 

He can not clock his turbo because it's internally wastegated anyways so who cares.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stizzit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure how you figure it'll pool at the 12 o'clock position?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me neither, but he probably works on turbos 24/7, so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt, on the account of experience.

BTW, looking at where BBKA's return line on the oil pan, I don't know...that's a little too low, even for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He can not clock his turbo because it's internally wastegated anyways so who cares.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can still clock it. Just make a new flange for the internal WG.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, looking at where BBKA's return line on the oil pan, I don't know...that's a little too low, even for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEAPTURBOdotCOM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

clocking the turbo as described in the diagram will cause more damage than running it in the current configuration. if the drain was clocked to the 4 o'clock position as described, the oil would then have a chance to "pool" inside the cart at the 12 o'clock position on shut down. this oil would then boil, breakdown and eventually create a very fine grit, coking up the bearing housing.
hth </TD></TR></TABLE>

can we get a little more detail on this?

 

At that low of a position you may have to resort to a drain resivoir and a oil scavange pump similar to the PTE Focus turbo kit. It adds to the complexity but at least you can keep you low turbo placement without having to worry about having proper draining of the oil.

 

I've been thinking about doing the scavenge pump thing to run an external oil cooler before the oil goes back to the pan.

I think this would be the best setup, hell, you already threw down the money for the turbo stuff, whats one more $100 pump????

Edit
Does anyone know if I would HAVE to use the small accumulator thing the PTE Focus used? If I had enough -10 line coming straight down off the turbo before curving, my thinking is I wouldn't need that thing right? I think the focus only used it because the line was completely horizontal??

 

In order to implement this I need to understand his reasoning.

Its useless for me to just "go along" with something if I don't agree or understand.

 

rubber heater hose oil return line setups, represent!

 

My friend running a VF22 on his Suby 2.2 just a lost his turbo yesterday due to a rubber oil return. Turbo is being sent out today and he's going to go buy a stainless line. The line clapsed and kinked shut.