I have a 98 Integra and am not getting a spark. I did all the checks such as the main relay, pulled it out and ran a continuity test that is outlined in the service manual. I checked the pin to ECU to make sure I was getting battery voltage. I checked to make sure I have a good line to the igniter and the ECU, checked good. I replaced the igniter and the main coil with new from O'reilly's Auto Parts. Still no spark. So what could it be my ECU or distributor? Anyone?

 

Looking for a little help here if it is available on this site, I am new here....

 

give it sometime, someone probably knows. I got like the same problem so BUMP.

 

hmm... check the coil... rotor button.. cap... wires.... and plugs... has to be somewhere in that area! i had this problem with my del sol vtec distrubutor... and it was actually the distributor that was bad!

 

I took it to Acura nad they tryed to say it was the ECU that was bad. They were going to charge me $85 to diagnose it. Getting it towed there cost $70. The guy said that there is a 50% chance that would fix the problem. He said that would be $750 for a new module and 2 hours to install it. I was like "FRIKEN WHAT?" it takes 10 minutes working at a snails pace to replace it. I found someone local (salvage yard) who let me borrow a ECM out of a 98 integra (Automatic, mine is a standard) and a 99 civic one. I tried both and neither started the motor. The guy was standing there when I did it. I said to him "So what was the MISS diognosis fee that I owe?" He talked to his manager and they said forget about the fee. I am getting it towed home tomorrow and will work on it myself further. My next step is to install a rebuilt distributor I bought from O'Reilly's Auto Parts today. Provided that there is not a conflict with my car and the 2 ecm's I tried at the dealer. Any thoughts?

 

I believe that that is a good idea.
I agree with birds_sol.
The distributor should fix the problem.

 

I got one from O'Reilleys, has anyone had any problems with them from there? the dealer of course says "You must buy ours"

 

is it throwing any codes?

 

Not sure, I pluged in a OBDII checker into the check point (loaner from Auto parts store) It said could not connect. I am not sure if the checker was bad or me just not doing it right. I tried it on my truck and it said that it could not get a connection also. The truck is running fine. I am planning on getting another one from somewhere else and rechecking it. The check engine light in my car is on all the time when the ignition is on. I was told it should go off after a couple of seconds, even if the car is not running. When I unplug the ECM it goes off. I need to find a place that can check my ECM in the Dallas/Fortworth area. I Found one place, but they want to charge me a flat fee to get mine reworked $250, they said they do not check them for anything less anymore. Anyone know of a place around me that can do a check on my ECM? or a good used ECM

 

ur car is obd2
ur crank sensor is at the oil pump
double check that
make sure its plug in.

but before u go forward
backup double check all ur fusess
then visually check ur conection at the dist.
and crank sensor

 

Here is what I did which is leaning me towards the ECM more and more. I swapped out the distributor with a rebuilt one I got from the Auto parts store. I also put on a new cap and rotor. Still no spark. I also checked all fuses and wires and all looked good. I think the crank angle would just make the engine run like crap, I do not think it could keep it from getting a spark altogether. I may be wrong, but just seems that way. Also last week when I tried to log into the ECM. The OBDII checker could not log on at the check point, said that it could not connect......

 

check and see if you are getting a crank position sensor code, if that's it that is your problem right there

 

Sounds like you have a bad Main Relay. The tip off is the fact that the CEL does not cycle off after a couple seconds when you turn the ignition on. You said you did continuity test on it according to the manual but a resistance check does not tell you whether a circuit can handle current.......Try a known good one.....3gdude

 

check dizzy rotor
-Kyle

 

You should be checking for spark directly from the coil output......not at a plug wire...Cap, rotor and wires are thus eliminated from the equation......I usually just trigger the ignitor with a test light confirming whether the entire ignition system is working correctly. All the ECU does is send a digital signal to the igniter telling it to fire the coil....You can send this with an unpowered test light.....3gdude

 

well if all of your tests for **** came out perfect, then the dizzy probably isnt the culprate. think about it, if all the right currents are flowing at the right amounts, etc. then obiously its not the wiring of dizzy.

hopefully its something easy to replace like plug wires

 

it still think its the crank position sensor( down at the oil pump for obd2 cars) with that code. it cuts the fuel and spark