1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Lower Arm Bars ((56K maybe...?))
Hello everyone. Today, since it was raining I thought it would be fun to go somewhere dry and install my Spoon lower arm bars.
Tools needed:
1) Socket Wrench
2) Socket Wrench extender (short)
3) Socket - 14 mm
4) Allen wrenches
5) Box End Wrench - 14mm
6) Screw Driver - #1 Flat Head
Fortunately I had the luxury of using a lift and air tools so this install took about 20 minutes to do the front and the back. This was not done at someones house. This was a licensed tuner.
Step One: Organize your tools for easy use. Jack up the car and secure it with jack stands. Get it high enought to create plenty of room to work with.

Once you have the vehicle secure you are now ready to go to work. To do the rear bar you will need to take out four bolts for the install. If your car is JDM, you will need to remove only two bolts.
Step Two: Remove the two 14mm bolts that are located just above the E-Brake cable.

See the two smaller 10mm bolts holding on the plastic housing of the E-Brake cable in that upper picture? The one lowest to the ground (per side) will need to be removed.
Pre-assemble the bar, making sure not to tighten everything down and secure it to the vehicle with the two, long 14mm bolts you took out. Make sure that the base of the bar that rests against the suspension has the curvy part facing up toward the sway bar. To get it to fit, this is where you need to take out the two lower bolts on the ebrake housing. It's a tight fit and you will need about 1/8th of an inch to get them in and moving the housing of the ebrake will make this room.
Tighten down the black bases of the lower arm bar to the chasis. Torque to factory specs. Next tighten the non adjusting side of the lower arm bar using your box end 14mm wrench and your allen wrench, then adjust the other side accordingly and tighten.
The front is pretty much the same as the rear with the exception of no ebrake housing and you will need the #1 screw driver to align the front suspension so you can thread the 14mm bolt holding everything together. A very easy install.
This is the rear. Notice how the factory one is bent? Thanks, so don't comment on it. I went to see how much a new one cost at Acura and they want $100.99. I laughed at the girl behind the counter. I'll just leave it on since it's not hurting anything until I can find a straight one, or decide to take it off entirely.

Here is the picture of the front. Note, you may need to take a rubber mallet to the exhaust heat shield to make some room. You only need about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of slight indentation to make it fit.

Hope everyone enjoys the write up.
Tools needed:
1) Socket Wrench
2) Socket Wrench extender (short)
3) Socket - 14 mm
4) Allen wrenches
5) Box End Wrench - 14mm
6) Screw Driver - #1 Flat Head
Fortunately I had the luxury of using a lift and air tools so this install took about 20 minutes to do the front and the back. This was not done at someones house. This was a licensed tuner.
Step One: Organize your tools for easy use. Jack up the car and secure it with jack stands. Get it high enought to create plenty of room to work with.

Once you have the vehicle secure you are now ready to go to work. To do the rear bar you will need to take out four bolts for the install. If your car is JDM, you will need to remove only two bolts.
Step Two: Remove the two 14mm bolts that are located just above the E-Brake cable.

See the two smaller 10mm bolts holding on the plastic housing of the E-Brake cable in that upper picture? The one lowest to the ground (per side) will need to be removed.
Pre-assemble the bar, making sure not to tighten everything down and secure it to the vehicle with the two, long 14mm bolts you took out. Make sure that the base of the bar that rests against the suspension has the curvy part facing up toward the sway bar. To get it to fit, this is where you need to take out the two lower bolts on the ebrake housing. It's a tight fit and you will need about 1/8th of an inch to get them in and moving the housing of the ebrake will make this room.
Tighten down the black bases of the lower arm bar to the chasis. Torque to factory specs. Next tighten the non adjusting side of the lower arm bar using your box end 14mm wrench and your allen wrench, then adjust the other side accordingly and tighten.
The front is pretty much the same as the rear with the exception of no ebrake housing and you will need the #1 screw driver to align the front suspension so you can thread the 14mm bolt holding everything together. A very easy install.
This is the rear. Notice how the factory one is bent? Thanks, so don't comment on it. I went to see how much a new one cost at Acura and they want $100.99. I laughed at the girl behind the counter. I'll just leave it on since it's not hurting anything until I can find a straight one, or decide to take it off entirely.

Here is the picture of the front. Note, you may need to take a rubber mallet to the exhaust heat shield to make some room. You only need about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of slight indentation to make it fit.

Hope everyone enjoys the write up.
Does the Spoon front bar fit the GS-R as well or is it just the Type-R that has the mounts for that bar? Also, how much did the rear lower bar cost?
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paste »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do they affect the handling of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Try2Live4God »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the Spoon front bar fit the GS-R as well or is it just the Type-R that has the mounts for that bar? Also, how much did the rear lower bar cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, it does fit a GSR.

great write up.
yes, it does fit a GSR.

great write up.
I find these to be a total waste of money. First of all, the R already has support bars both on the rear and the front (the front is above the sub frame, by the steering rack). Also, the way the spoons mount are total junk. The thin metal brackets can be bent so easly that they do absolutly nothing. I ran the front one for a while and it was total junk and lowered my front clearance by a good 2 inches. Sell thouse pieces of **** and buy something that actually works. If you're not going for stuff that works, then don't forget the spoon stickers on your fenders.
Craig - Whos got a slightly bent front lower spoon bar for sale... I'll have my 2 year old niece straighten it first before i ship...
Craig - Whos got a slightly bent front lower spoon bar for sale... I'll have my 2 year old niece straighten it first before i ship...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fortunately I had the luxury of using a lift and air tools so this install took about 20 minutes to do the front and the back. This was not done at someones house. This was a licensed tuner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who is the tuner licensed by? Never heard of tuners getting licensed before.
Mugen Mike, who is confused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find these to be a total waste of money. First of all, the R already has support bars both on the rear and the front (the front is above the sub frame, by the steering rack).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Craig, the more bars the better man

Oh well, as long as the poster is happy with them *shrug*
Who is the tuner licensed by? Never heard of tuners getting licensed before.
Mugen Mike, who is confused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I find these to be a total waste of money. First of all, the R already has support bars both on the rear and the front (the front is above the sub frame, by the steering rack).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Craig, the more bars the better man

Oh well, as long as the poster is happy with them *shrug*
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
type Gendy
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
17
Jan 4, 2008 08:14 AM
IGGY
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
16
May 15, 2006 10:29 AM






